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Old 02-04-2016, 09:52 AM   #1
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2004 28' International CCD
Cocoa , Florida
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Fresh water drain... Uh ohhh!!

Hello fellow streamers!!
I think I made a boo boo. My fresh water valve was broken and when I got it out, this is what I found. There is a tube inside of what looks like a protective "box" that covers both fresh and black water tanks. There is no slack in the tube, so I can't pull it out in order to hold it so I can get a grip on it and replace the valve. The valve is "barbed" and requires some amount of pressure to install. I have a feeling I'm going to end up dropping this "box" in order to get to the tube, unless someone has any ideas on a easier way..
I hope you all have a FANTASTIC weekend!!
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:00 AM   #2
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Well, the other end of that tube attaches to the fresh water tank. I can access mine under the floor of my closet. Obviously, yours may be different but I would bet that there is some access to that end of the tank from inside your rig. Usually, the water pump is in the same spot and, on mine, so are the tank sensors.

You may have to poke around a bit, maybe even remove a panel or two but you should be able to find it.

Mike
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:02 AM   #3
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Ditto what Mike said....
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:05 AM   #4
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Look under the trailer to see if there is an access cover to connect the new valve. If not you will have to cut an access hole and cover it with some sheet metal. You may be able to work it form the inside if there is an access from the inside.
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Old 02-04-2016, 10:49 AM   #5
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I know mine will probably break soon. I have no access from above so I'll have to take the cutting wheel to the plastic water tank cover.

I suppose if just the handle breaks but its not leaking a pair of pliers should be able to turn it on/off. Everything in my AS that requires maintenance requires major work to access.

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Old 02-04-2016, 10:53 AM   #6
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I bought one of the aluminum replacement valves and keep it in my "road parts bag", but since lubing the plastic one with food grade silicone, it works smoothly and probably won't break. At least for a long time.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
since lubing the plastic one with food grade silicone, it works smoothly and probably won't break. At least for a long time.
How 'bout a quick course on how you lube it?
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:08 AM   #8
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I just hit the seam between the body of the spigot and the "turny" part (technical term), worked it back and forth and repeated several times. That was about 5 years ago. Still works smoothly.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
...but since lubing the plastic one with food grade silicone, it works smothly...
Food grade silicone lube - can you recommend one? Where to purchase?

Greg
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:31 AM   #10
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https://www.waresdirect.com/products...Jt8aAqvB8P8HAQ

This is just the first one I came across. Google for more...and I bet it is available locally.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:32 AM   #11
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:53 AM   #12
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Rich,

Do you have link for the aluminum valve?
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:54 AM   #13
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Last time I looked, they were out of stock...let me check.
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:56 AM   #14
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WAT...0dofNjWCDNPYHw

BOOM, here they are!
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Old 02-04-2016, 11:58 AM   #15
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Looks like you have to go to the big box for the valve...and price has gone up, but they are great quality. This is for the flange only.
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:01 PM   #16
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Ditto the idea to cut an access hole.
Cover it with sheet metal or plastic screwed to the original pan. Careful not to use long screws that could puncture the plastic tank.
You may have to McGiver the connection to the tank if you need to cut out a piece of piping. I remember using a bit of plastic tubing and hose clamps to reconnect the new pipe to the stub on the tank. My new valve was a 1/2" brass ball valve that I mounted closer to the wheels where I could get at it without laying on my back under the trailer. I used U-brackets to hold the new valve and pipe in place.
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:41 PM   #17
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the lubricant is the same as dielectric grease available in auto parts stores. i had the same problem. i moved the drain valve past the rear tire so it was easier to access.
i added an elbow at the tank ran the pex line down the frame and added a quarter turn ball valve at the end. used plenty of clamps especially on each side of the valve to support when open and closing.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:57 PM   #18
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Fresh water valve sticking

My fresh water drain valve became very hard to open and close. I opened the valve, laid on the ground for access to the opening, and sprayed PAM food spray into it. Worked the handle back and forth a few times and that did it. Nice and free.
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:18 PM   #19
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Maybe you could heat the tubing with a hair dryer or hot water to soften it enough to push the new valve in? If that doesn't work and you can't find other access then it's cut and patch. In situations like this I always ask myself "how did they put this together when it was made?" and that usually leads me to the way to do it.
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:35 PM   #20
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Mine had small hose clamps at the barb fitting at the valve end AND tank end. Fortunately someone had cut an access but it was still difficult with my large hands. BUT it was doable. The old hose had no stretch to it so I carefully slit it with a utility knife at the tank end and replaced it. I now carry a spare length of hose and new valve just in case it ever happens while on the road. Hardest part is getting the trailer high enough to work under it.
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