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Old 05-20-2013, 09:51 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 553
Endcaps U paint Please Update long-term results

Hi folks

I read many posts on painting end caps could you update us on your long-term results and the secrets of your success. ( or not). Most post were not reporting long-term results. Any advice would be great.

So far, I have sanded the rear end cap and now the plan is to (unless otherwise adviced) TSP it an rise and find some kind of primer and paint. Again, any advice would be great.

Thanks Tony
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:27 AM   #2
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1966 24' Tradewind
Livingston , Texas
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Tony,

Our 1966 Tradewind was dirty and discolored, and the textured vinyl coating had a sticky feel. After scrubbing everything, my wife and I painted the walls/ceiling, cabinet faces and endcaps with Krylon Fusion spray paint. We used Kilz spray paint over any dark stains prior to the color coat. After almost 2 years, everything still looks great, and is easy to clean. We haven't had any adhesion problems on the end caps or the vinyl coated areas.

Lou
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:43 AM   #3
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1977 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Colorado Springs , Colorado
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Tony,

The previous owner of our Minuet had attacked the interior with a paint brush, one wall bright yellow, one bright blue and one bright red. Five years ago, in an attempt to return the interior to a semblance of original, I tried to get the paint off the vinyl and the end caps. Goo Gone took the paint off but it left behind a light stain from the paint. We painted the interior with Original Killz which is white pigmented shellac. Shellac will stick to nearly anything and nearly anything will stick to shellac, so in addition to covering up the stain it makes a good bonding layer between coatings. We then used a clear poly-acrylic over the kills and it still looks like the day we completed. If you try that approach clean the surface well, make sure to use the original Killz (shellac based) and poly-acrylic not polyurethane. The General Finishes brand of poly-acrylic is the best I have used.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:38 PM   #4
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1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor , Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
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Eight years and still looks great

I repaired mine over 8 years ago - stop drilled some cracks and repaired a couple of the worst cracks with fiberglass.

See the thread below - post 7.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...cap-15656.html

I think the reason for success was I cleaned the caps really well, several thin coats of Fusion (careful, it runs easily) and covered the Fusion with a good grade of Rustoleum spray paint of DW's favorite color.

The fusion vapors are intense - be sure to get a good breathing filtration system - not just a cheapie surgical mask.

Everything still looks great and no new cracks. the finished product cleans easily with a damp rag.

BTW, the trailer has been well used - several trips to Disney in Florida, one trip to the Rockies, many trips from Houston to the Texas Hill Country. Stationary use also, I lived in it for 4 months in 2011 and again in 2012. Right now I am living in it in a Houston RV park - it's been an excellent investment.

More info in the '78 Sovereign link below.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:28 PM   #5
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1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
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We primed with Bondz oil based primer, and then coated with 2 coats of exterior grade latex paint. 2 years, in Minnesota's freeze/thaw cycles and no problems so far. One end cap was old, the other brand new. Key is to have everything very very clean and very well rinsed before you prime and paint. Paint went on with rollers. I don't think there's a wrong paint for it: I have read many threads with many different paints used. The key seems to be cleanliness.

Kay
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:28 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
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Thanks for the replies.

Kay I missed yours. It sounds very appealing. Easy and cheap. Compared to the alternatives. I bought some Bulldog adhesion promoter BulldogŪ

PPg adhesion promoter was recommended but it is hard to find in my area.

I may go with the Bulldog then prime and then the highest quality latex house paint. I was planning to use Marine Clean and rinse the heck out of the end cap. I have already used Simple Green and sanded with orbital sander.

It ain't rocket science but I would hate to get it wrong and have to deal with the consequences.

Thanks all Again

Tony S
Rogue River, Oregon
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:30 AM   #7
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There is a "correct" way and then there is always the cheap way.

The first step is to SAND not scuff but sand into the plastic, using 120 to 150 grit sandpaper.

Scuffing the plastic will short live the paint job.

The after a very good sanding, apply 1 or 2 coats of a VERY GOOD flexible primer.

Let that age out for a day or two, then if you wish, sand it down with wet 400 sandpaper, the only purpose being to make the primer super smooth.

Then apply, once again, a high quality paint over the primer. Two coats would be great.

Automotive paints work best.

Household paints don't like the huge temperature changes that can occur over time.

If you want top quality, then you apply top quality materials and workmanship.

If second best is your choice, then so be it. Just slop some cheap paint directly on the headliners, and then watch it peel off in a few months.

Andy
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:53 AM   #8
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For us amateur painters......

Could you give us some examples of VERY GOOD flexible primers and paint

And some household paints to stay away from
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:48 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
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I bought a can of Bulldog Adhesion Promoter. I paid $23 for it. They may of seen me coming but local can be high. I am in Andy's camp not doing it on the cheap. The problem can be knowing what to do.

I was trying to get PPG adhesion promoter. When I found it the PPG guru in told me to go with Bulldog, for what I was doing.

I have sanded the surface with 120 grit on random orbital sander after cleaning it with Simple Green. Then I went over it with water. Next the plan was to use Marine Clean just in case there is some kind of grease or mold release.

If not a high quality latex what other suggestions for top coat. I don't have spray equipment. I would love not to spray too.

Sounds to me like Minno is very happy with their results. Is the proof in the pudding?

Many Thanks

Tony
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:19 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandolindave View Post
Could you give us some examples of VERY GOOD flexible primers and paint

And some household paints to stay away from
Dupont 1858 S is a great primer.

Then use what ever color you wish of "Centari" auto paint.

It comes in many colors, but I happen to know that they are fresh out of the "polka dot" paint.

Andy
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Old 06-30-2013, 01:22 AM   #11
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 553
Just a quick update. I ended up using Bulldog Adhesion promoter and top coated with Krylon Fusion. It seems to work out just fine. Only thing is it is not a nice smooth as glass to the touch. Not bad but... I went with Fusion in a Satin. Went almond so I could stay neutral and decorate with color. Also the front end cap is in great shape but is a little discolored and I am not painting it. The discoloration is even and towards the brown/almond.

Note, I tried better than 10 places to find Bondz but didn't find it.

In conclusion, There seems to be many ways to get acceptable results but everyone includes sand well and clean, clean, clean, and rinse, rinse, rinse.

Tony
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