Drain Assembly Shower Pan

[Tony S]

I build a new shower pan and now I am about to install a Prep Sink drain and then it goe to the p trap which goes to the new grey water tank in my 1973 Tradewind

Could someone tell me if I use plumbers putty to seat the drain to the pan?

Alsodo I use teflon tape or not on ABS P trap threads?

Finally, if you can see the pic below with the assembly on the pencil is this the order of assembly

The drain, a rubber gasket, up against the underside, then the cardboard ring or is that discarded finally the nut. There is also another piece the brassy looking thing I don't plan to use it does that sound ok? I am just going to screw the P trap to the drain threads?

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in Advance

Tony
Rogue River, OR

[ventport]

Yes use plumber putty on the top of the drain pan and under the chrome fitting. Most of it will squeeze out when you tighten the fitting anyway. It just makes up for any unevenness between the two.

[Tony S]

Thanks Ventport

Any knowledge about using teflon tape on the abs threads or not. Maybe something else?

Thanks

[Minno]

Tony,

Normally, you'd use a drain tailpiece with it's own gasket to connect to the underside of the drain. Then, each threaded fitting would also have it's own compression gasket to provide the seal.

But, in your case, since you're going to use a threaded ABS fitting to connect directly to the drain, then yes, use a good amount of Teflon tape, or pipe joint compound. By a good amount of tape, I mean 6 to 8 thicknesses of it wrapped around the threads as those are pretty coarse threads and you don't want it to leak.

Chris

[Frank's Trailer Works]

plastic to metal= NO tape. Metal to metal use tape(except in a flare fitting, then metal to metal only)

[Frank's Trailer Works]

plastic to plastic= glue

[Tony S]

Thanks Frank and Chris. Chris on you sitting tub how is it secured down to the frame you built?

Thanks

Tony

[Minno]

Originally Posted by Tony S

Chris on you sitting tub how is it secured down to the frame you built?

Big beads of silicone all around the top of the frame.

Chris

[awryawry]

Hey, Tony,

Do NOT discard the cardboard ring -- it is an anti-friction ring which prevents the attaching nut from squeezing the rubber gasket out of the assembly as you tighten it.

The sequence of parts as shown in your foto is correct. As noted above, use putty beneath the flange. Clean the mating surface within the shower pan to remove any remaining scrunge prior to the assembly.

The 1-1/2" slip-joint nut can be discarded -- it is for use with a flanged tail-piece/"top hat" surface compression washer.

If you're threading the 1-1/2" ABS female adapter directly onto the drain fitting, use thread sealant. *Note: on ALL threaded joints (excluding flare fittings) I utilize teflon tape and pipe dope.

Question: is the trap riser long enough to permit threading to the drain assembly without the trap ell hitting the bottom of your pan?

Best luck,

wryawry

[Tony S]

Thanks is a great response awryawry. I think that will keep me out of trouble. Well some trouble.

Thanks for the question too:

Question: is the trap riser long enough to permit threading to the drain assembly without the trap ell hitting the bottom of your pan?

Do you mean preventing it from sealing up tight?

Thanks

Tony

[awryawry]

Hey, Tony,

Here's a dwg to illustrate: the tail piece must be long enough that the outlet ell doesn't hit the bottom of the pan when you are threading it on to the shower drain fitting.

[Tony S]

Thanks for taking the time awryawry. I believe I am long enough so it just clears things. I actually have a pretty good slope to the grey tank inlet that I could adjust a bit. Put a longer tail on the first part of the p trap. ( if that is a way to describe it) I will double check it.

The posts roll by the opening page so fast I have to be careful not to miss an answer.

Is there a setting that I can choose so I get notified it a response comes is received?

Anyway Thanks for keeping me out of trouble. As an aside what pex system do you prefer the rings or the stainless steel with the nubs.

Tony

[awryawry]

Tony, professionally I use the Viega system. I've also got a few press-to-fit fittings here and there on the AS in accessible locs.

[Tony S]

yes, based on what I have heard Viega is very well regarded. I can get it from Pex.com but I haven't found it locally. I will come up without something I need and will not want to wait to have stuff shipped

I can get Wirsbo around here. I would love to avoid the Chiwanese stuff.

Like North American or European whenever possible

Tony

[Frank's Trailer Works]

I swear by the copper ring style PEX connectors.

[Tony S]

I am getting the feeling that all systems work. Each has their advocates. To me crushing a ring or even pinching those nubs would seem to distort in one direction or another unless there is a pliability. Kind of like how a rivet shank fills up the hole diameter as it is bucked.

Tony

[Frank's Trailer Works]

I will tell you what works poorly. Plastic quick connect fitting.