Door External Trim Repair

[MSL]

The external centerline door trim (not sure what the official description is) is not adhered to the door at the rear end. My immediate concern is the potential for water getting into the inside of the door. It looks like there is a rivet at the end (in the photo you can see the rivet hole in the skin, but the rivet is not visible), and it looks like this trim is/was sealed where the top edge meets the external skin.

Does the center of this trim pull out to expose the attachment rivets?

In a few days I'm heading out for 3 to 4 weeks in the trailer, then at the end of May I will be out in Jackson Center for my final warranty visit. I will add this issue to my list for them to fix, but I'm concerned about what happens in the meantime. Do I need to seal this to eliminate the potential for water getting into the internal workings of the door?

I've looked online for a squeeze tube of Sikaflex or Dicor in clear, but it seems non-existent; actually, any squeeze tube seems non-existent. Does anybody have suggestions for what I could use, assuming it should be sealed?

I was thinking of these two 3M products:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-05220-Mari...55&sr=8-3&th=1
or
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-520...55&sr=8-6&th=1

The first is white, which is not my preference, but is a fast cure. I would prefer the second because it's black, but it has a long cure time. Are there other polyurethane sealants that a marine supply shop might have.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions.

Sorry, can't figure out how to rotate photo.

Mark

[John Ware]

Ck out the thread : trim coming off by harphunt in Clearcoat,ext. paint . Except for the width and the end pieces, the trims look the same to me.

[tbrowne]

My choice would be 3M trim tape. It will seal the hole and hold the trim for a very long time if need be.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-38582-Exte...195598478&th=1

[MSL]

My main concern is whether water can get behind it. If so, what kind of caulk in a squeeze tube is recommended?

The post mentioned looks like it's a different problem than mine; the center strip of the trim is loose, whereas in mine the whole end of the trim is loose. I don't think the tape is a good choice in this case because it's just the end that's loose (and it still has the rivet that fits into the hole), and the tape has a thickness. I will still need some kind of caulk.

[SeeMore]

I would clean the area around the hole with alcohol using a Q-tip and use a piece of tape temporarily given a factory visit in May for scheduled warranty work. It will stay in place under the rail and last until then.

[kscherzi]

The trip piece is made of two parts. An aluminum C channel riveted or screwed to the trailer aluminum skin, and a flexible chrome colored vinyl piece attached to the middle of the C channel with some 3M tape.

You will find that over time the shiny chrome vinyl piece will turn a drab gray. Both the belt around the base, and belt around the center. Most change color (fade) within a few years. The only fix is replacement. Rolls of the material can be purchased at auto shops or online from various Airstream parts dealers. It's an easy replacement job, like pulling off a long piece of scotch tape, and sticking a new piece on.

With a pocket knife carefully pry the vinyl chrome piece out of the channel, starting at one end. Peel enough back to find the broken rivet, drill and redo the rivet. A small dab of silicone ought to sufficiently prevent moisture into the rivet. The vinyl sticky tape will still be sticky enough to return back to its original position. A 30 minute project if you go slow.

[w001csm]

I have a sport 22 with similar door trim issue. What size rivet is used?
I had this done at the dealer several years ago but it's failed again.

Also, don't lose the aluminum end piece, hard to replace and dealer does not stock them.

Thank you