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Old 09-25-2022, 07:25 PM   #1
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Angry Battery disconnect switch not working after battery replacement

I have a 2018 27FBQ International and just installed my second set of AGM batteries. I went into the unit and cycled the battery disconnect switch and now I don’t have 12volt power to lights, etc in the “Use” mode toggle. No LED light even. When I hold down on “Store” toggle and hold, I have all lighting and tank indicators. When holding down on “Store” battery reads 13.6…..when shore power is connected. When shore power disconnected and hold down in “Store” toggle battery reads 12.7. All direct wires to batteries, tongue jack and signal booster to TST tire pressure monitor has 12v power.

Once I either let go off the toggle in “store” position or shift to “use” position I get no LED light or 12v lighting, etc….

So I checked the solenoid 5 amp fuses they are fine, checked power converter output outside the unit, took out and plugged into garage 120v and converter output was 13.6v DC.

My question is, Is it the Use/Store switch or the solenoid gone? I did “rap” the solenoid while wife was cycling the Use/Store switch to see if solenoid might be stuck but no joy……

So Use/Store switch allows 12v to Airstream only if I hold down the disconnect switch in “Store” position. LED light does come on and stays illuminated if I hold down in “Store” position. No solenoid “fire” when shifting to “use” position, no Continuous LED and no 12v lighting…..

Thoughts for this Old Navy BT?
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Old 09-25-2022, 07:48 PM   #2
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That toggle switch is a POS and very problematic. It may not be tripping the solenoid which is separate in the circuit from the "ON" and LED. I had the same problem and removed the panel and exercised the switch with a lot of contact cleaner. Problem solved. Many people with the same problem end up replacing the hole switch panel which is a solution, but pricey.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-o...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 09-25-2022, 07:55 PM   #3
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Dumb question but where did you spray contact cleaner? In the solenoid? In the switch? If switch a POS does replacing the switch fix it? Leaving on a trip this Thursday so I only have a couple days to figure this out….I appreciate any help
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Old 09-25-2022, 08:10 PM   #4
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The switch and panel at your entry door that controls "use" and "store". I would suggest disconnecting the battery first to make sure nothing gets shorted, then remove the switch panel. There is a circuit board that supports the momentary contact use/store switch. Liberally spray contact cleaner into every crevice you can find on that switch and thoroughly exercise it. I looked up the part and thought about replacing it but it is hard to find and difficult to un-solder. After the process I mentioned above ours has worked flawless for the last year.
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Old 09-25-2022, 08:19 PM   #5
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Could the switch have gone bad coincidental to changing the batteries? Of course. Is it likely? Who knows.

I was taught that in situations like this it's always advisable to go back to the last change I made. in this case it's installing new batteries.

Did you inadvertently leave off a wire when you reconnected the batteries? I've had wires fall out of place doing routine work like this, and then I've skipped them when reconnecting. Maybe something like that happened here, as it almost sounds like there is a ground wire to the switch or something seemingly minor like that which is not connected here.

Do you have photos of the 'before' view of the batteries and their wiring? If so, it might be helpful to go back and double check your work here.

As a last resort for the upcoming trip if you can't find the problem or find the needed parts, perhaps you can bypass the solenoid with a jumper. I've done this in the past with a solenoid on my coach, but I'm not familiar enough with the one on your trailer to know if/how that would work here. Hopefully someone else will know.
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Old 09-25-2022, 08:31 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
Could the switch have gone bad coincidental to changing the batteries? Of course. Is it likely? Who knows.

I was taught that in situations like this it's always advisable to go back to the last change I made. in this case it's installing new batteries.

Did you inadvertently leave off a wire when you reconnected the batteries? I've had wires fall out of place doing routine work like this, and then I've skipped them when reconnecting. Maybe something like that happened here, as it almost sounds like there is a ground wire to the switch or something seemingly minor like that which is not connected here.

Do you have photos of the 'before' view of the batteries and their wiring? If so, it might be helpful to go back and double check your work here.

As a last resort for the upcoming trip if you can't find the problem or find the needed parts, perhaps you can bypass the solenoid with a jumper. I've done this in the past with a solenoid on my coach, but I'm not familiar enough with the one on your trailer to know if/how that would work here. Hopefully someone else will know.
Great questions and YES….I actually did take photo of wiring before I took batteries out and used the photo when reconnecting new batteries….and even had my wife independently check the connections also.

I went to the same school of start with the last thing that I touched….in this case the batteries but the tongue jack has power, the signal booster to the TST system is working, Carbon Monoxide light is on…..and all 12v works if I hold the Use/Store switch in Store position. LED comes on and all 12v light works when holding the switch down in the store toggle. I can see my outlet surge protectors have power while shore power is connected as indicator lights are on…..bypassing might be an option but I’m not sure how to do that
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Old 09-26-2022, 05:25 AM   #7
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As a retired engineer with lots of debug scars I wholeheartedly agree with Richard, coincidences don't happen. Unfortunately that is what happened to me on this topic when I did a complete Lithium/Multiplus install this spring. I pulled my hair out trying to find a wiring problem and learned way too much about the Intellitec disconnect in the process. Symptom was exactly as you describe, push and hold the switch and you have DC power but let go and it does not stay on (latch). After ruling out wiring problems I finally concluded the problem was at the switch itself which was not making contact on one of the legs. The switch is a crossover which sends +/- to the I/S terminals on the solenoid when you press "use" and -/+ to the I/S terminals when you press "store". In my case one of the legs was not making contact and since it is not hermitically sealed it will accept contact cleaner easily which did the trick for me. Why this happened coincident to my upgrade I don't know, sitting time, higher voltage Lithium ???

If you are sure all wiring looks good but you want to test/force the solenoid to the use state ground the S terminal and then momentarily contact the I terminal with a lead connected to +. Do not touch the use/store switch when doing this and having a 10 amp fuse in line with the + wire from the battery would be good practice. If it latches then you should be good for your trip. If it does not latch at that point then you have a bad solenoid. I am still betting your switch is the problem and that contact cleaner will solve it. Many people have had problems with that thing and most people end up replacing the whole panel. Good luck!
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Old 09-26-2022, 05:41 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by BTCMUSN View Post
...I went to the same school of start with the last thing that I touched….in this case the batteries but the tongue jack has power, the signal booster to the TST system is working, Carbon Monoxide light is on…..and all 12v works if I hold the Use/Store switch in Store position. LED comes on and all 12v light works when holding the switch down in the store toggle. I can see my outlet surge protectors have power while shore power is connected as indicator lights are on…..bypassing might be an option but I’m not sure how to do that
According to the Airstream manual for your trailer the tongue jack and the LP monitor do not go through the battery disconnect switch, so them being powered up doesn't really mean anything about the switch. The TST system might have been wired to the always-on side as well.

Here's the manual for your relay, assuming you have the setup described in the manual & parts book Airstream has posted for your trailer.

https://intellitec.com/wp-content/up...E-MANUAL-1.pdf

There are fuses involved here, so perhaps that's your problem. Here's a thread I found that talks about the fuses and other potential problems.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...es-206112.html
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Old 09-26-2022, 05:45 AM   #9
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Thanks for the help. If solenoid is bad can you just disconnect the leads and bolt them together to bypass the solenoid and make the trip then return back and get new solenoid or switch?

Worried about switch and solenoid supply. Like everything else could be weeks lead time possibly?

Thoughts on bypassing solenoid?
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Old 09-26-2022, 06:46 AM   #10
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Thanks for the help. If solenoid is bad can you just disconnect the leads and bolt them together to bypass the solenoid and make the trip then return back and get new solenoid or switch?

Worried about switch and solenoid supply. Like everything else could be weeks lead time possibly?

Thoughts on bypassing solenoid?
I've worked with similar setups before, but not this one specifically. With that said, after reading the manual I think my first step (after checking the fuses) would be to try bypassing just the switch. I'm assuming that you have some familiarity working with DC circuits already, and if not it would be a good idea to have someone who is helping you.

It seems like it should be possible to remove the two signal wires (the smaller one) from the solenoid and then manual activate it by momentarily applying 12v+ and 12v- to the appropriate terminals. If that works, then you know the switch is the problem. If it doesn't, then I'd suspect the solenoid to be the culprit. The manual details which terminals get + or - depending on if you are trying to open or close the solenoid.

The two signal wires should be taped up to prevent any possibility of shorts should someone inadvertently try using the switch on the panel.

If this works, then you can manually trigger the solenoid to connect the batteries and be on your way till you get the parts you need. If it shows that you have a defective solenoid, then you can put both larger cables on one terminal to manually make the connection. Before doing this I'd suggest you pull the negative cable off both batteries to avoid problems. Much safer than trying to do this with the cable(s) live.

Out of Doors Mart shows both the solenoid and the switch to be on the shelf and in stock.

https://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?...f9t5h0gt96ddd5

https://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?...f9t5h0gt96ddd5

Woodland Airstream shows both on their website, but you have to call for inventory confirmation.
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:32 AM   #11
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Yes Sir….Thanks for the “talk thru”….

So rather that attach both cables with a “bolt” to clamp solenoid leads together for a bypass, just take one side of the solenoid off and bring over to the other side and use that terminal stud as the connection to keep leads from moving around during trip?

I will be using contact cleaner on the switch also. Wife is looking for new switch and solenoid but possibly will need to bypass current solenoid so I want to understand the safest possible bypass solution.

You have been an immense resource and help so THANKS for that!
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:43 AM   #12
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...So rather that attach both cables with a “bolt” to clamp solenoid leads together for a bypass, just take one side of the solenoid off and bring over to the other side and use that terminal stud as the connection to keep leads from moving around during trip?

I will be using contact cleaner on the switch also. Wife is looking for new switch and solenoid but possibly will need to bypass current solenoid so I want to understand the safest possible bypass solution.

You have been an immense resource and help so THANKS for that!
Before moving the cable to bypass the solenoid, I'd try manually triggering it to turn on by bypassing the switch. At this point you don't know if you need to replace the switch or the solenoid. The manual I linked to shows where to momentarily make the connections on the solenoid to force it to trigger and close the connection.

If that doesn't work then putting both cables on one terminal will bypass the solenoid. Remove both battery negative cable first.

Don't forget to find and check the fuse for the solenoid.

If you can't find one locally, Out of Doors Mart shows that they are in stock.
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Old 09-26-2022, 09:44 AM   #13
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Talking

I was able to locate the Intellitec solenoid and switch here in Tyler Texas. Will be in my hands tomorrow I’m told. Should give time to install before heading out Thursday. Still going to try the contact cleaner on the current switch and if that don’t work I’ll prolly just replace both. If it does work I’ll have a spare battery disconnect solenoid and switch!
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Old 09-26-2022, 09:54 AM   #14
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I really doubt the solenoid is bad. Based on my experience with that thing and the fact you want to get on the road soon, this is what I would try in order.

1. Remove the panel switch, disconnect the edge connector, then liberally spray this stuff in all the crevices of the switch while exercising it. Let it dry a few minutes then re-connect and try it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-o...5103/205021975
2. Force the solenoid latch into the on position as described. This might help.

3. Bypass the solenoid by adding a 6 gauge wire jumper between the input and output.
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Old 09-26-2022, 10:46 AM   #15
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I really doubt the solenoid is bad. Based on my experience with that thing and the fact you want to get on the road soon, this is what I would try in order.

1. Remove the panel switch, disconnect the edge connector, then liberally spray this stuff in all the crevices of the switch while exercising it. Let it dry a few minutes then re-connect and try it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-o...5103/205021975
2. Force the solenoid latch into the on position as described. This might help.

3. Bypass the solenoid by adding a 6 gauge wire jumper between the input and output.
So my wife just bought the contact cleaner and will try that first. So can I leave the solenoid connected and introduce a 12v signal off another battery to shift solenoid or do I need to disconnect everything and try to cycle the solenoid.

Lastly, 6 Guage is plenty of “Guage” for jumper? So basically 2 eye connectors and just loop it over the top of the solenoid from 1 side post to the other and NOT the S or I terminals correct?
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Old 09-26-2022, 12:33 PM   #16
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Great. So just to be clear, I was listing things to try in order until it is fixed. If step 1 fixes it you are done. If you need to go to step 2 then that is just a simple 14 gauge or so wire for momentary connection to the I/S terminals in order to trip the solenoid latch. If that does not work then last resort would be step 3 which should be 6 gauge or so as it will have to carry all DC current to DC panel and charger. I don't think you are going to need to do step 3.

Starting with step 1 just remove the switch panel, disconnect the card edge connector, then with the tube on the contact cleaner liberally spray around the both sides that switch where it connects to the circuit board and the top at while toggling it. Some pics below. You should be able to do step 2 from the card edge connector and I will try it on mine while you are trying step 1.
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Old 09-26-2022, 01:26 PM   #17
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OK, I have confirmed that you can switch the solenoid from the card edge connector at the switch panel. For mine (2017 25FB) the documentation for which one gets power for "Use"" mode was backwards. To do this you need two 14 gauge or so jumper wires and I would suggest a helper hand to avoid accidentally shorting something. First connect a jumper between the brown wire and black wire (GND to Brown), then connect a jumper to the white wire and briefly touch it to the red wire next to it (+12V to White). You should see a spark and hear a click which is normal. You can then plug the card edge connector back into the switch panel and you should notice the LED is on and DC power is working. If not then your Brown/White may be backwards from mine so reverse them. Some pics attached. Glad you have a backup coming tomorrow and hopefully you don't have to dig out the relay and replace it. Good Luck!
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:03 PM   #18
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OK, I have confirmed that you can switch the solenoid from the card edge connector at the switch panel. For mine (2017 25FB) the documentation for which one gets power for "Use"" mode was backwards. To do this you need two 14 gauge or so jumper wires and I would suggest a helper hand to avoid accidentally shorting something. First connect a jumper between the brown wire and black wire (GND to Brown), then connect a jumper to the white wire and briefly touch it to the red wire next to it (+12V to White). You should see a spark and hear a click which is normal. You can then plug the card edge connector back into the switch panel and you should notice the LED is on and DC power is working. If not then your Brown/White may be backwards from mine so reverse them. Some pics attached. Glad you have a backup coming tomorrow and hopefully you don't have to dig out the relay and replace it. Good Luck!
Yes Sir…..it worked. Jumped it over as per your directions. I can’t thank you enough. Solenoid is good and as you said most likely switch is bad and it is bad. New switch inbound tomorrow. All 12v back on. I did learn a lot thru this process…..thanks for taking the time. LED even back on as you said!
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:10 PM   #19
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Yes Sir…..it worked. Jumped it over as per your directions. I can’t thank you enough. Solenoid is good and as you said most likely switch is bad and it is bad. New switch inbound tomorrow. All 12v back on. I did learn a lot thru this process…..thanks for taking the time. LED even back on as you said!
Awesome! Safe travels to you and yours.
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