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Old 01-20-2016, 08:11 PM   #1
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1968 28' Ambassador
St Louis , Missouri
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A/C & furnace advice

We have a 1977 that is being gutted to accommodate a mobile business. The a/c and furnace were original and needed to be replaced. Everything will be ran off a 10,000 watt generator with all new wiring ran. We would like to install a portable heating & a/c unit but have read this will not be sufficient. Question we have is what is our best option for heating/cooling?
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:20 PM   #2
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Fleming Island , Florida
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Airstream seems to use around 1000 BTU per foot of length for furnace sizing. AC units run from around 11,000 BTU to up to 15,000 BTU with some trailers having two units.

The easy way is to replace in like kind, however that may not be enough depending on the heat and cooling loads like outside temperatures, people and equipment.

Several members have used the ductless mini-split units with the outside unit mounted on the tongue. A lot will depend on the size of your unit and where you plan to use it.

Al
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:24 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Airstream seems to use around 1000 BTU per foot of length for furnace sizing. AC units run from around 11,000 BTU to up to 15,000 BTU with some trailers having two units.

The easy way is to replace in like kind, however that may not be enough depending on the heat and cooling loads like outside temperatures, people and equipment.

Several members have used the ductless mini-split units with the outside unit mounted on the tongue. A lot will depend on the size of your unit and where you plan to use it.

Al

We have a 31 ft unit. Temp in the winter gets down to single digits and in the summer temp gets up to 100.
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:52 PM   #4
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St Louis , Missouri
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ClimateRight CR13000PAC Portable Indoor Air Conditioner and Heater

Has anyone tried one of these?
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:43 PM   #5
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1973 31' Sovereign
Middletown , California
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I used a Samsung brand of that size that worked very well for my office of about the size of my airstream. I'm sure the office was insulated better than the trailer but I was really impressed how good the unit heated and cooled. Heat pumps only work well down to the low 40's F. maybe high 30's, like at 43 and humid a heat pump can pull a lot of heat out of the air. If you will always have power it could work although running a generator is expensive electricity. Leland
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:04 AM   #6
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1965 30' Sovereign
West Allis , Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by Dapperden View Post
Not personally but I was in a small clipper <20' during the '09 Madison Intl rally. The owner installed on of the in a closet to effectively hide the unit. That trailer was as cold as a meat locker!
The local Fleet Farm gas and service store also used one of these. It seems to do an OK job with many people going in and out.
It still must have an exterior duct.
Personal opinion? I'd go for something more permanent that doesn't take up floor space or reduce headroom and something quieter than the typical RV furnace & overhead AC.
A split system might work until it gets too cold outside or its gets too humid inside the trailer. Check with the manufacturer.
I also have questions on long term durability of a split system if the unit is towed extensively. But others can chime in with their experience.
Plain old window A/C units have been used and are cost effective. They can be mounted so as not to be an ugly appendage.
Heat appliances will depend on your use and if it involves dust, fur or fumes expected inside.
Also, what power is available? How much floor traffic? Lighting that will supplement heat or make cooling more difficult.
I've seen diesel floor heaters adapted from a buss, electric floor mats, mini boiler systems with floor heat, Cat heaters, furnaces, solar with external heat collectors, etc.
Use, travel, power available will all direct you choices.
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