Visit our Popular Forums

chrisetmike · 08-02-2018, 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rugjenkins

Looking awesome! I really like the bathroom fixtures. Are they all metal and where did you find them[emoji1]

They were actually bought separately and are actually two different brands lol. We started with the bathtub faucet. It was bought at a local plumbing supply store (Moncton plumbing and supply). We also bought a new hose for the shower because the new tap set and old shower hose couldn't connect at the faucet.

The vanity tap set was bought at Home Depot. It was pure luck to find a matching set from a different company and in a different store

chrisetmike · 08-07-2018, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM

quote

The shower rod that I configured worked out really well. I don't know if you stumbled onto that thread, it's worth a look. You might adjust the pole location, since it looks like you're not using the "dressing seat" over the toilet.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...on-147648.html

Really like your solution for tub faucet. Not too many folks figure out that the hole centers are the same as old clawfoot tubs... The caternary drape of the shower hose is nice. Airstream designers missed that in their original configuration. Ignorantly, they flipped the fixture over and switched hot and cold handles which stressed the Alson hose with a double curve. In the installation literature it specifically warns against the way Airstream did.

Ok confession time the tub fixtures were a fluke (thanks for thinking we were smart lol) . I have peeked at your shower thread before and I really like what you did. We have been talking about doing the same. The only thing we didn't love about your shower rod was the placement of the pole that attaches to the tub (from the original thread, we didn't see the dressing seat.) How far do you think the pole could be moved? I'm assuming that the pole is necessary to not put stress on the wall rivets and to help support the weight of the shower curtain. Do you think that we could get away with moving it close to the wall? Or maybe using lighter piping and no pole?

ALUMINUMINUM · 08-07-2018, 07:59 PM

The pole is almost not necessary, but it's a nice grab-handle, and makes the rod able to support over a hundred pounds.

The pole wouldn't be necessary if the bulkhead was reinforced. OK if your bulkhead is other than the original flimsy plywood or it was backed with a sheet of metal, but then the problem will be clearance for the pocket door, so, maybe yes to no pole, if you can widen the pocket so there's room for a stronger thicker bulkhead.

When you say move pole closer to the wall, Which wall.. bulkhead or end-cap? The rod is strongest with triangular anchorage.. bulkhead-pole-endcap.

You could see how it works with a stronger attachment to bulkhead, and experiment with pole location if needed.

The pole's pretty handy where it is, and doesn't interfere with the dressing seat. I made a thinner, 3/4" thick pocket door to better fit the original pocket.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f7/p...ce-128019.html

.

64airstream · 08-08-2018, 05:19 AM

Aluminuminum, chrisetmike,

The strength of the forum is being able to share and learn from each other's work. I was very impressed with Aluminuminum's solution for both the shower rod and the pocket door, so I tried my own (far less talented) version. We didn't want to attach to the end cap, so I added a bend straight down to the flat top on the "hamper" to anchor that end. I used clear lexan to fill the gap to the end cap and sealed it along the end cap. The other end is attached to the bulkhead at 90 degrees. It won't hold the load of Aluminuminum's, but easily performs it's function.

Our door was also inspired by Aluminuminum's work. Also not at such a high skill level. We used two pieces of lexan and frosted and them with adhesive material.

Some photos are posted on our thread here, https://www.airforums.com/forums/f39...er-155180.html , if interested.

Your doing great work and we enjoy watching your progress.

Thanks for the inspiration,
Roy and Marie

ALUMINUMINUM · 08-08-2018, 07:44 AM

"The strength of the forum is being able to share and learn from each other's work."

So true, there are many examples of individual "solves" on which to base or grow an idea. Airforums has schooled me in countless subjects... rivets, tires, sheetmetal, solvents, sealants, adhesives, coatings... There's plenty to learn, and the support is priceless.

Thanks to all

chrisetmike · 08-08-2018, 07:48 AM

Aluminuminum, Roy and Marie
I have to honestly tell you that both your reno threads were a huge influence on this Airstream. I am so happy to have you follow along.

I really appreciate both of your suggestions and ideas. Please keep them coming! My husband is still focussed on kitchen cabinets so that we can get a test run out before camping season ends. We will have water, gas and electric systems up and running but no exterior polish, cupboard doors and probably no shower rod or "fancy" new pocket door lol.

chrisetmike · 08-13-2018, 09:21 AM

The kitchen cabinets are done. My husband is bow working on the electrical systems. He has encountered his first "oups" moment also. He had misread somewhere that you could place your inverter within 15 feet of the battery, when talking to the battery salesman they told him to place it as close as possible. So behind the couch goes the inverter!

I was very happy that he was able to salvage the original cherry wood sliding door. He did have to shorten the frame and doors to accommodate the new fridge but it looks good. TV will go behind slides along with the radio and tank monitors

dbj216 · 08-15-2018, 06:52 PM

Well, I should have talked to that battery salesman. I made an opps too. My new converter in my Overlander is behind the tub where Airstream put it. My heavy battery is up front under the gaucho. I ran about 25 feet of heavy gauge battery cable from the battery to the converter. I measured about 0.2 voltage drop on this long cable. I don't boondock an awful lot. I think I will be okay. Not ideal, but okay.

I did it this way as I did not want to extend the "wire harness" all the way to the front of the trailer. All the 12v circuits originate at the fuse box and converter. If I find trouble with this arrangement, I'll have to move my battery rearward. I just didn't want that 60 pound battery hammering away on my frame rails at the back of the trailer.

I find it interesting that Airstream moved the battery location from that goofy drop down storage compartment in the rear of the trailer to the front of the trailer under the gaucho. There are two access openings in the front. I think this happened in 76 or 77. I'm not positive. My 86 has this arrangement.

David

chrisetmike · 08-16-2018, 05:35 AM

Our batteries were originally under the bed but my husband didn't like sleeping over a battery and I wasn't a fan either

. We don't plan to buy solar panels right away but it is something we want later on. Having the battery outside the trailer and very accessible will help.

Another reason for having the batteries up front is to add some extra tongue weight.

dbj216 · 08-16-2018, 07:51 PM

I'm using an AGM "ventless" battery under my gaucho. These AGM batteries don't vent fumes like a lead acid batteries. My wife's car has an AGM battery under the passenger seat, not under the hood.

Yep, adding tongue weight can be a good thing within reason. Taking weight off the rear of my Overlander is also a good thing since my holding tanks are back there. I moved the water heater forward under the street side twin bed, and it is a 6 gallon (50 pounds full) instead of a 10 gallon (almost 100 pounds full).

I think taking weight out of the rear of my Overlander will help reduce rear end frame issues. It is my opinion Airstream loaded the rear of the Overlander to reduce tongue weight so a guy could tow it with a 1975 Impala 350. Cars weren't the greatest tow vehicles back then.

David

chrisetmike · 08-16-2018, 08:17 PM

Oh boy we were doing well but now it seems we are going backwards. We had to adjust our inverter placement (not really a big deal) but now we are looking at water tank placement with our couch and scratching our heads again.

Originally we intended to place the couch in front of the water tank but that would bring the couch way to close to the door and it would completely block the door when used as a bed. Not great! Scraping the water tank and ordering a new one would be the equivalent of flushing 350$ down the toilet. Scrapping the couch would be 250$ (We got a great deal for the couch).

The solution we came up with is placing the tank under the couch. We will have to sacrifice the pull out drawer under the couch but it is a sacrifice we can live with!

Let's hope we are done with the Oups moments! And please no "Oh! Oh! Moments"

Bubba L · 08-16-2018, 08:36 PM

Y’all are doing a great job. We all have those “oops” moments. I’ve lost count, but who’s counting? As long as those oops things are caught and corrected. Keep up the good work and go camping. Bubba

64airstream · 08-17-2018, 08:06 AM

I agree, we all have those memorable moments. We kept our fresh water tank under the front couch and cut out a level gauge (sight glass) for monitoring purposes. We wire an LED back light from the original level switch on the instrument panel. You've got lots of options with the beautiful cabinetry.

Enjoy,
Roy and Marie

chrisetmike · 08-19-2018, 08:45 PM

Thanks everyone for the words of encouragement. We are finally past the oups stage (even though the photos don't look like it.)

Here is a list of completed or almost complete items. Electrical systems are 90% done, water systems and plumbing are 95% done including the head scratching water tank. The sofa is in place. He had to take it apart cut the side, raise it up a few inches. There is still some wood work around the couch but we will start to finish(with thung oil ) the cherry wood this week .The photos show the first coat on the pieces around the sofa and the valance. I am pleased that mixing the old and new cherry wood will look amazing.

We also have a possible solution to adding an indoor table .

chrisetmike · 08-26-2018, 08:45 PM

Ok update and advice time. We have finished the cabinets except for the doors. Everything is finished with thung oil. The finish on the cabinets seem a bit blotchy (there is more shine in some areas and less in others) The only solution we have found is to just cover the thung oil with one coat of water based polyurethane. Unless anyone on the forum had a better idea

The windows are now on the Airstream. They look great. I did notice that they aren't sealing properly on the sides so did we do something wrong?? How do we fix the seal?

My husband is confident that we will camp in the Airstream next weekend, I'm not so sure this is one time that I hope he is right

Thanks for your help!

dbj216 · 08-27-2018, 07:21 PM

You would expect the curvature of the glass is the same as the curvature of the window frame. It appears the curvature of the glass is a bit off. I suspect there is a lot of variation in the Airstream frames and the glass itself.

I wonder of a guy could "shim" out the rubber seal with a bit of weather stripping tape in the area where there is inadequate "clamp" between glass and seal. This might work if there is not very much of a gap, say 1/16" or so.

I'll bet Aluminuminum has better ideas.

David

chrisetmike · 08-27-2018, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbj216

You would expect the curvature of the glass is the same as the curvature of the window frame. It appears the curvature of the glass is a bit off. I suspect there is a lot of variation in the Airstream frames and the glass itself.

I wonder of a guy could "shim" out the rubber seal with a bit of weather stripping tape in the area where there is inadequate "clamp" between glass and seal. This might work if there is not very much of a gap, say 1/16" or so.

I'll bet Aluminuminum has better ideas.

David

I really wish we had all original Corning glass. The curved Corning fit beautifully! Could changing the gasket window seal make a difference?

dbj216 · 08-28-2018, 07:20 PM

I don't think new window seals would make a difference since you are using glass. Glass doesn't bend all that easily. I would expect the rubber window seals to scrunch down as the window closes. The new glass fits tight at the top, and fits tight at the bottom if I understood the photo correctly.

If you disconnected the link to the glass bar, and then pushed the glass against the seal from the middle of the glass, would it seal tight doing that? I kinda think not, but it might help determine of the glass curvature is "out of tolerance".

David

ALUMINUMINUM · 08-29-2018, 09:10 AM

No one in the world knows more about glass than Corning. PYREX, Corelle, Space station windows… '66-'68 Airstreams!!

Our Corning glass is chemically tempered and surprisingly flexible. Its vulnerability is its edge, which became protected with stainless steel in 1968. I don't think that “replacement glass” technology approaches the historical knowledge of what Corning Scientists were able to achieve. The “replacement glass” is heat tempered and thicker. It may not consider the flex and fulcrum of the Philips-Corning science. I'm not a glass scientist, but any damned fool (that being me) can slump and temper a sheet of 1/8” glass in a pottery kiln.

Glaziers refer to the etched logo as the “bug”. Your Corning “bug” is in the lower left corner. Corning glass has a decreasing radius curve, top to bottom, replacement glass may not. I don't know as I've never held replacement glass and sighted its edge. I don't know where or if there is a bug on recent replacement glass.

Somewhere, in an old thread, Frank Yensan, of Frank's Trailer Works, says the replacement glass fits better upside-down. There are images of this somewhere in Airforums, where the replacement “bug” appears in the upper right, upside-down.

David may be absolutely correct... your "replacement glass" may be from an "out of tolerance" batch.

I recall a thread where Inland Andy insisted that his replacement glass was superior to VTS. I cannot imagine that there are different manufacturers of '66-'68 “replacement glass”, but I can imagine variances in batches. I would use UV Polycarbonate until I found a genuine Corning replacement. I've seen three Corning-Philips windows for sale on eBay in the last eight years.

For the '67-'68, I think it's better to use VHB foam tape in the clamp-bar instead of silicone. The tape assures that the glass is well spaced in the clamp-bar. Additionally, I don't think it is necessary to silicone the entire hinge to prevent leaks as Inland Andy suggests.. Silicone really sucks for the next guy working on these windows. If you have any silicone on any of your window parts, I'd get it off now.

The aesthetic clarity of these windows is remarkable. They really disappear into the shell contour like no other Airstream ever. I would never rivet eyebrows over the windows to prevent leaks... They're frail and quirky, but there's none so smooth.

TurkeyRun · 08-29-2018, 11:06 AM

Aluminuminum is spot on about the replacement glass.
I replaced two windows in my 68 Overlander. By chance I ordered one from Andy and one from VTS. The curvature of both windows is exactly the same as the trailer and they seal perfectly. The DOT etching codes in the corner are also identical, except one (from VTS I think) also says "Paragon Tempered Glass."
So I would go with the theory that you got a piece of glass from a bad batch.
As for the stainless steel trim on the window edge, there are two theories about that. One is that it protects the window from damage because tempered glass is at its most vulnerable if struck on the edge. The other theory is that it protects the owner from walking into a partially raised window that would otherwise be nearly invisible. But it's kind of moot for the new glass is slightly thicker and will not fit into the trim. i believe 1/8" now instead of 3/32".