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02-10-2016, 11:08 PM
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#61
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4 Rivet Member
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Sacramento
, California
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 263
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I think the main issue with running wire under the subfloor would be that it makes it more susceptible to rodent damage. They're much less likely to get in the walls (tho it definitely happens) than the belly pan.
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02-11-2016, 06:42 AM
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#62
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Good call! I didn't think about that. Thanks!
Anyone have experience w conduit?
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02-11-2016, 08:36 PM
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#63
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Did a rough calculation of hours of work required before the wedding. Added an additional 20% for the unexpected and came to 13 weeks at the current number of hours/week. Time to get a move on!!
Hope to have all the lead paint stripped and frame repaired in two weeks and then start some reassembly. Gonna be tight!
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02-18-2016, 07:24 AM
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#64
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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WARNING: do NOT strip paint off any aluminum with PEEL AWAY 1 from Dumond! it will chemically etch/pit the aluminum. apparently their other stripping products won't.
luckily i only tested it on a small patch that is relatively "easy" to replace.
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02-18-2016, 12:11 PM
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#65
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1 Rivet Member
California
, California
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 6
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Hey I really liked your plan of work and I suggest you should go out with this plan of work and best of luck !
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02-23-2016, 03:39 PM
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#66
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Frame repairs in progress!
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02-23-2016, 03:55 PM
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#67
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Rivet Master
1962 28' Ambassador
1961 19' Globetrotter
1962 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,996
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Nice progress, when are getting married, 2017
__________________
Hittenstiehl
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02-23-2016, 09:16 PM
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#68
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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03-15-2016, 10:22 AM
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#69
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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quick question, should i put putty tape between the exterior skin and the floor c-channel before buck riveting them together? what's the best practice for sealing this connection?
been a while since i posted, but progress is being made. i'll give a more complete update soon...
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03-15-2016, 10:29 AM
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#70
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Rivet Master
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyclad
Happy New Year!
i've been away from my project for a week and need to get back to it. currently i'm chewing on a few questions/issues...
is there an easier way to safely remove the asbestos tiles than a heat gun and scraper?
is it better to strip the leaded zolatone off the interior panels before or after i remove them? (if i remove them before stripping i can hire someone to do the stripping while i move forward with the rest of the work, but i don't like the idea of bringing leaded, flaking paint into the rest of my workspace)
and thinking a bit further out...
do i need to replace the belly skins? and if so is there a clever way to avoid having to remove the buck rivets around the floor line? (for example by leaving the "banana skin" section of the belly pan, cutting the rest away and adding a sheet of aluminum that runs the full length of the belly.)
with a shell-off floor replacement, it sounds like one of the biggest challenges is getting everything to line up again as you put it back together. is it possible to replace the floor and belly pan without lifting the whole shell off so as to avoid this issue?
would love to hear if any of you have suggestions about these issues.
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I used a roofing shovel to remove mine. Most were loose already though.
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03-15-2016, 11:04 AM
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#71
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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also, has anyone had any luck with Aluminum Jelly for cleaning, stopping, and/or inhibiting white rust on the aluminum skins?
i've got some snowy patches on the interior of the exterior skins.
any other products or procedures you'd recommend short of replacing the panel?
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03-15-2016, 11:49 AM
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#72
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyclad
quick question, should i put putty tape between the exterior skin and the floor c-channel before buck riveting them together? what's the best practice for sealing this connection?
been a while since i posted, but progress is being made. i'll give a more complete update soon...
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I did / would use a polyurethane sealant like Trempro 635. I think "putty tape" might be a little "stiff" (and thick), and when buck riveting you'll get more "deformation" at each rivet - more of a dimple than you really want.
__________________
Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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03-15-2016, 11:57 AM
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#73
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Thanks Mark. Any tips on how to prevent the TremPro from getting all over the rivet gun, bucking bar, and clecos (not to mention everything else)?
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03-15-2016, 04:13 PM
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#74
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
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I have a jar of Lacquer thinner near by and drop the clecos in as I move along, and a rag with a little lacquer thinner to wipe the bucking bar periodically . . . it's still a pain. I kind of get to the point where I "give in" to the mess and just realize I'm going to get it all cleaned up when done.
__________________
Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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03-15-2016, 09:54 PM
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#75
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Ha. Ok thanks. I'll let you know how long it takes me to go feral!
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06-19-2016, 06:16 PM
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#76
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Success!
Sorry to ghost on everybody but it was crunch time for the last few months... Happy to report that the airstream was ready for my wedding and we spent our first night married in it! It's not the "final" renovation but as I said from the start, the goal was to get it wedding-ready. Here's what I was able to get done:
-strip all lead paint
-remove all asbestos
-repair/modify frame
-re-engineer shell/frame/floor/belly connection to make each element independent (I can now replace the floor, belly pan, and/or exterior skins without affecting the other elements and taking the whole airstream apart)
-insulate w prodex
-install fantastic vents
-install new astrodome
-install nos bargman door lock
-replace window screens
-replace axil
-run new running light wiring
-install nos running lights
More soon I hope.....
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06-19-2016, 09:31 PM
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#77
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
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awesome, thanks for the update
__________________
Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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06-20-2016, 11:36 AM
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#78
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2 Rivet Member
1976 25' Caravanner
Kansas City
, Kansas
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 52
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Congrats! That looks awesome and is very impressive for the time frame you had to work with.
__________________
Follow our shell-off renovation on Instagram @LifeIsRiveting
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06-20-2016, 02:15 PM
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#79
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Thanks! Had the good fortune of having the time to dedicate as well as some extra hands. Couldn't have done it without them
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06-20-2016, 03:16 PM
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#80
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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Great job!
__________________
Matt
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