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01-06-2016, 01:40 PM
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#41
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivetsforlife
Based on some of your photos, your 62 is identical to my 64. I have discovered that the floor tile adhesive is water based. A section of the old floor was left exposed to rain and the remains of the tiles just fell off. I am not doing a complete floor replacement, so I am going to try removing the rest with a spray bottle and putty knife.
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interesting. thanks for the tip. please let me know how this goes.
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01-20-2016, 03:15 PM
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#42
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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been a while but i'm making progress. i have everything out of the interior (appliances, window/skylight frames, antenna crank, etc.) so should be ready to start removing interior panels soon. question: do i need to remove the front and back above-window cabinets, or can i leave them attached to the end caps?
also drilled out all the belly pan buck rivets only to discover additional pop rivets and buck rivets hidden beneath the exterior skin. classic airstream gotcha! guess i'm not dropping the belly pan tonight.
pics and more updates soon...
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01-26-2016, 10:19 AM
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#43
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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interior panels are starting to come down. got the frame supported with two jacks at the bumper to prevent sagging as the structure gets weakened by the lack of internal sheets. the ceiling panel is supported so it doesn't come down on top of us as we remove the rivets. and we're finding all sorts of nastiness behind the walls.... (yes that's a section of solid mouse poop under the panel)
btw, is there a trick to uploading pics in portrait format? mine always end up on their side once uploaded.
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01-29-2016, 02:30 PM
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#44
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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got a lot done this week. all interior skin and insulation is out!
the plan is to go for shell off. any suggestions regarding bracing design?
also, around the ceiling curve there seem to be several ribs running fore-aft that are not riveted to the exterior skin (see last pic). does anyone know what those are for? seems like the interior skin makes them redundant. can they be removed and discarded?
looking ahead, has anyone figured out a sound way to re-engineer the floor/frame/skin connection? in the future, i'd like to have a way to replace the floor without messing with that connection, so i'd rather avoid having the floor run all the way btwn the floor c-channel and the frame. additionally, it would be great to make that connection such that the belly pan could be replaced (in case of dents, etc.) without removing the interior skins, etc. has anyone seen a thread with the solution to all this?
thanks and more soon....
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01-29-2016, 05:23 PM
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#45
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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I re-engineered mine for that very same reason. Check out "argosy redo". If u have more questions on what I did I can post more pics to help.
__________________
Matt
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01-29-2016, 05:26 PM
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#46
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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Unless you someone helping or done the work it's labor intense. Not sure you'll be able to meet your timeline. But it can be done
__________________
Matt
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01-30-2016, 10:08 AM
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#47
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Thanks rugjenkins! I'll definitely look at yr thread as well as darkspeed's. Which darkspeed thread should I be looking at for this floor connection?
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01-30-2016, 09:19 PM
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#48
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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Headroom epiphany for darkspeeds thread
__________________
Matt
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02-02-2016, 08:36 AM
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#50
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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both end caps out, wires pulled, and bracing going in. hope to lift the shell today!
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02-02-2016, 12:00 PM
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#51
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Rivet Master
1964 26' Overlander
1974 31' Sovereign
Milton
, ON
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,225
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Looking good! You might want to remove the window cranks so you don't risk hitting one when installing the bracing and breaking it off.
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02-03-2016, 05:06 PM
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#52
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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02-05-2016, 08:15 AM
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#53
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Approaching max de-con!
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02-05-2016, 06:17 PM
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#54
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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02-06-2016, 05:27 PM
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#55
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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Keep it up. Looking good. Having a building to work in makes a difference. I lose my mojo after it gets dark. At this pace you might make it in 4 months 😀
__________________
Matt
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02-08-2016, 01:44 PM
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#56
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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the wheel wells are off and now i think i've really reached the point of maximum deconstruction. feels good! and daunting!
a few questions for y'all....
any recommendations for spec'ing/sourcing shocks and axils?
is there any reason to replace the tire rims? (see pic below)
also what's the best replacement for the water inlet? the fiberglass is all rotted out on mine (see pics). is there an off the shelf replacement part?
also, looking ahead, what are the hardest parts to source (trim, lights, lenses, skylight, etc.)? can i get all this new, or should i start hunting for vintage parts?
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02-08-2016, 05:08 PM
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#57
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
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I used Colin Hyde Trailer Restorations for my new Axle - it went "swimmingly" (and he's in N.Y.)
__________________
Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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02-08-2016, 08:34 PM
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#58
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Thanks for the tip! Did they order you a Dexter axil?
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02-08-2016, 09:05 PM
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#59
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
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I believe it's an "Axis" axle . . . which is a torsion axle like dexter
__________________
Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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02-10-2016, 06:29 PM
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#60
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2 Rivet Member
1962 22' Safari
Brooklyn
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 89
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Looking ahead... Is there any reason airstream didn't run the wiring below the floor and then up through the walls? Seems like that might make it easier to run new lines as needed.
Also does anyone have experience putting flexible plastic conduit in the walls to make future wiring upgrades/alterations easier?
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