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Old 11-24-2020, 03:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too tall View Post
Howdy Brent. Call me crazy. How new are the brakes and have they had a chance to fully break in?


I have the same P3 and thought I had a problem until I spent some quality time bedding in the brakes and it's been nice and smooth since.
They are not new.
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Old 11-24-2020, 03:25 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by RTOS_LLC View Post
"Internal Error - No brakes" message sounds bad and is clearly not a "not connected" error. Not connected on most controllers I have tested products with generally mean "current flow is less than about 2 brake magnets". Ya, if you have a triple axle "connected" generally means you have current flowing to at least two brake magnets!

I didn't design prodigy but my guess is they are getting bad readings from their accelerometer chip or some other "intermittent" signal (like a cold solder joint) that results in the intermittent error. I would return it as others suggest as it may not work when you need it.
Yeah I don't trust it to work when I need it so I just bought another one. I didn't want to buy another P3 because I am upset with Tekonsha (Horizon Global) for not honoring their lifetime warranty, but I don't see another one that I like as much as this one as far as features. Hopefully the new one will at least solve the "no brakes" problem, and maybe the grabbing brakes as well.
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Old 11-24-2020, 03:57 PM   #23
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Update:
I ended up buying another P-3 since I had the harness and was leaving the next day. However, I never installed it. The next day everything was okay again. I've towed it thousands of miles since then.
Until.....the other day it was pouring rain here, I did NOT have the trailer in tow and the warning came back on. "Warning: Internal error, No Brakes". While that message is showing, there is no adjustment possible, it's locked up, no buttons work. I chalked it up to a connector getting wet.
Next day, fine again, later, with no rain the error message came back, no trailer connected.
If you have one of these units, you know shutting off the key doesn't reboot the system, it stays powered up for...???
Next time, I'll break out the new unit, and swap it in the harness and see if it is the wiring harness or the unit. (or perhaps unplugging it)
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Old 11-24-2020, 04:37 PM   #24
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thanks for the update. Really appreciate it.
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Old 11-24-2020, 06:20 PM   #25
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Brent after typing out my prior reply I remembered that I had that error. It was due to a broken magnet wire.


Below is a simple check I cribbed from (?):


Airstream brake check

The best way to check the trailer brakes is to measure the current flow to them. On your 7 way connector, find the terminal which goes to the brakes. Then find the terminal with + 12 volts on it. Connect your ammeter between those two terminals. You should have a reading of between 3 and 3.5 amps for each trailer brake magnet, that is in the range of 12 amps for all four working brakes. It is not uncommon, when doing this test, to find a current of around 9 amps (three brakes working) or 6 amps (two brakes working). I had the horror once on my own trailer of only finding a current draw of 3 amps. Three of the 4 brake wires were corroded and the brakes were not working on them.

So, continunity of the brake wire really does not tell much of the story. Measure the current flow and at least if it is in the 3 amp range per wheel, the electrical part of the brakes should be working. Airstream brake check

The best way to check the trailer brakes is to measure the current flow to them. On your 7 way connector, find the terminal which goes to the brakes. Then find the terminal with + 12 volts on it. Connect your ammeter between those two terminals. You should have a reading of between 3 and 3.5 amps for each trailer brake magnet, that is in the range of 12 amps for all four working brakes. It is not uncommon, when doing this test, to find a current of around 9 amps (three brakes working) or 6 amps (two brakes working). I had the horror once on my own trailer of only finding a current draw of 3 amps. Three of the 4 brake wires were corroded and the brakes were not working on them.

So, continunity of the brake wire really does not tell much of the story. Measure the current flow and at least if it is in the 3 amp range per wheel, the electrical part of the brakes should be working.
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Old 11-30-2020, 02:57 PM   #26
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Well I received the newly purchased replacement unit and it does not show the "internal error - no brakes" message, so it solved the worst of the problems. I plan to test it with the trailer in a couple of weeks to see if it helps with the "grabby" brakes.
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Old 11-30-2020, 03:32 PM   #27
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I should note that although Tekonsha is very popular, they have NO customer service. I've heard a rumor that if you have your original receipt, you might get a guy in technical to talk to you.
Tekonsha is owned by a larger corporation, and as such doesn't seem to care.
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Old 11-30-2020, 03:46 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
I should note that although Tekonsha is very popular, they have NO customer service. I've heard a rumor that if you have your original receipt, you might get a guy in technical to talk to you.
Tekonsha is owned by a larger corporation, and as such doesn't seem to care.
Yes, if you call them and select the option that says you do not have a sales receipt, that is the end of the call. I tried the option that says I do have a receipt, just to see what would happen, and after being on hold for about 10 minutes, I got a live person who confirmed that unless i have the receipt, there is no warranty.
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