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Old 05-27-2019, 02:14 PM   #1
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Right front Disk locked up 2005 Classic

Bringing my rig home from storage to de-winterize. Pulling away from a light in heavy suburban traffic, I noticed rig was really hard to pull. Started to smell tire smoke (1/2 way through the intersection and could hear tire sliding. Got through and pulled over. By this time, the damage was done (I learned later).

Put rig in reverse to see if wheel would unlock, it did. Drove the rest of the way home (5 miles). Upon inspection, found caliper broke off mount, pads gone and it hung lose inside the back of the rim by the rubber brake line, wearing deep groves in the rim. 6,000 (near new) mile LT tire now has a flat spot (bald) and the caliper is toast as piston is totally scared. And, I think the mounting plate for the caliper is bent.

Question is what should i/could I have done differently to avoid so much damage? And, if not close to home or close to anything, what would is the temporary repair? Also, are there better disk brake systems than the what the factory installs?
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Old 05-27-2019, 04:21 PM   #2
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Did your trailer have the new recall issued longer brake hoses?

You have dexter four piston disc brakes. These are sports car grade a very capable system.

Can you post a pic?

Gary
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:51 PM   #3
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Not sure it iss on recall, but, the rig is a 2005; it does however, have rubber brake lines that look to be long enough. Also, it has one piston per caliper, sadly I know this because of this very issue.
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Old 05-27-2019, 06:24 PM   #4
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Ok you do not have dexter. My assumptions are wrong.
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Old 05-27-2019, 06:54 PM   #5
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I am aware of a similar problem with a Kodiak caliper. This caliper was clearly in warranty, but if you have Kodiak brakes it might be worth a phone call. Kodiak sent my friend a new caliper and a box of mounting plates (10, I think). I'd be curious as to what you learn, including the caliper brand and the actual problem discovered, since I put Kodiak disc brakes on my 2002 Classic last year.

Temporary repair would be to pull caliper, if not already broken off, and tie up to the frame inside the frame rails. You would probably have to put a block of wood or something in to limit piston travel. An alternative would be to find, if they exist, a plug to screw into the caliper end of the hose. Disconnecting would have to be done carefully and quickly to avoid getting air in the line.

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Old 05-27-2019, 07:14 PM   #6
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Thank you

Hope to get it to the shop this week and I'll report back on brand. I don't think the brakes are aftermarket, but a factory upgrade (could be Dexter or Kodiak) when the original owner purchased.

I safety wired the caliper to the frame out of the way and will limp along to the shop this week. Unfortunately for me, the piston came nearly all the way out and fluid is leaking. Plan to set the controller gain to zero when I take it to the shop, I know the rig is heavy, but my 2500 should handle the 5 miles or so with little traffic and only one real stop.

I like the idea of a "plug" for the line if this should happen again. I plan to ask the shop to recommend something I can keep in my tool kit.
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Old 05-28-2019, 04:39 AM   #7
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Right front Disk locked up 2005 Classic

Yes a male plug and female to female adaptor are available in the automotive aftermarket so you can cap a steel line or hose. I carry one.
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:00 PM   #8
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We have a 2005 classic too and had a very similar problem--screw came loose and locked the brake causing severe damage. We were on the expressway and thankfully someone told us that our tire was smoking so we could pull over. This could have been a major accident. Had to have the entire brake system on that wheel replaced.
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Old 06-05-2019, 05:45 PM   #9
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Any updates on problem and repair?
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Old 06-06-2019, 05:15 AM   #10
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The shop wasn’t sure what caused the issue. Three other wheels had lots of life on the pads. They said maybe a mounting screw/bolt came out. The breaks are Kodiak.

End result, 400 in brake parts, 200 for a tire, replacing shocks, 200, while it’s there and repacking bearings. I don’t know the labor charge yet, but suspect around 500.
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Old 06-06-2019, 06:03 AM   #11
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Just curious any pics of the damaged parts?

And a comment “maybe a mounting screw/bolt came out”

It either came out or it didn’t. But I’m leaning or concerned about corrosion somewhere that triggered the pad, caliper or piston to stick and drag creating the heat.

Armchair comments that don’t have the benefit of examining the parts.

Do you have an IR temp gun? Very helpful in checking for hot brakes hubs and tires.

Safe travels

Gary
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Old 06-08-2019, 07:08 AM   #12
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No Photos

No photos of the damaged parts (rig still at the shop) but as I inspected before taking it, as one might expect from a 14 year old rig there was some corrosion. Further, I too believe the piston got hung up.

I don't have an IR temp gun, perhaps something to add to the kit. However, I'm certain it would not have helped me in this instance as the issue occurred between storage and home (about 7 miles). This fact also leads me to believe the caliper piston got hung up for some reason during that short trip. Of course, this may have been a problem that was beginning last summer with a break dragging and a temp gun would have told me.

By the way, for those of you wanting to or needing to replace shocks, they are monroe special made for Airstream, so not found in standard parts catalogs. My rig is being repaired at a utility trailer shop rather than an RV shop (since it is a running gear issue) and they couldn't find the shocks. I ordered from Out of Doors Mart and receive them in three days.
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Old 06-08-2019, 10:08 AM   #13
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Yes, corrosion is a real possibility. Pad to caliper anchor, caliper to sliders on your design or piston to caliper if both are metal.

Inspecting the caliper and pads might be a good thing annually like if when you rotate tires or just pull for insp.
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Old 06-09-2019, 10:54 PM   #14
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Well I hate to be critical, but I had a pad wear out prematurely and almost didn't catch it. So my lesson is always check the wheel bearings, brake pads, lines and shocks every year. Especially, coming out of storage. I am not surprised your lock up occurred coming out of storage. The pucks can get all corroded up during storage due to water that is absorbed in the DOT fluid. All brakes should be flushed every 10 years and maybe more ofter in moisture laden climes. Has your 2004, now 16 maybe 17 years old ever been flushed? I'm just as guilty. I only flushed mine when I lost all the brake fluid due to a line being rubbed buy a tire.
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:34 AM   #15
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Appreciate your comment, but we have our brakes/wheels checked and serviced when it goes in for its annual service before we start our travels each year. The year it happened to us, it was serviced a month or so before we left on our trip. Our problem was definitely a loose screw and we had plenty of brake fluid in the brake line.
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