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02-28-2006, 08:02 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
San Angelo
, Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,254
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I don't know if this system is the same or not, but we hauled Brooke's car back from Boise on a U-Haul flatbed with hydraulic brakes, and it was the worst brake system I have ever seen. They didn't kick in right away, and I felt like the truck was still doing most of the stopping. I'll take electric drums anyday over that setup.
Frederic
__________________
Frederic
1971 Sovereign International - SOLD
2004 F-350 King Ranch
AIR # 8239
EX-WBCCI # 8371
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02-28-2006, 08:24 AM
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#22
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4 Rivet Member
2002 31' Classic
Ozark
, Missouri
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 307
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U-Hauls are commercial trailers for the masses, they operate on a simple "surge" principal, you cannot compair the disc/hydrallics used on private vehicles and trailers.
JB
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02-28-2006, 11:26 AM
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#23
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Moderator dude
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,501
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Fredric,
Based on your description those brakes were not set up correctly either. If they were surge the shoe(s) was not adjusted correctly. Self adjuster not working. If a disc set up and surge, the system had major issues like air in the lines or contamination.
>>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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02-28-2006, 05:40 PM
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#24
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4 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
Currently Looking...
Somewhere
, Indiana
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 432
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Wow!
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Henry, one of our unit members was attending the rally last week, and they had a 1976 Excella that was originally equipped with hydraulic brakes, IIRC they were discs. It is a rare feature, but they are out there. They converted to electric drum brakes, and were happy with the result, as the hydraulic system always gave them problems. Personally, I also would want to keep the discs, because they will stop better, and are easier to replace pads on when they wear out.
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Terry,
Thanks - that's good info. The thread started with hydraulic brakes - not defined as disc or drum. I have seen older Airstreams with hydraulic drums, GT6921 has/had one. I have not seen older units with discs though. Thus, I appreciate your knowledge on the topic.
Best Regards,
Henry
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02-28-2006, 09:15 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1986 25' Sovereign
Southern Middle
, Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacnstac
Link please.....
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http://www.airforums.com/forum...ht=disc+brakes
__________________
Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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02-28-2006, 09:27 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1986 25' Sovereign
Southern Middle
, Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacnstac
Link please.....
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Here are a few shots from the back area of the engine manifold as the air rake hose snakes its way back towards the rear of the vehicle. The blue covering is wire loom over the hose to protect it from any abrasion.
__________________
Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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02-28-2006, 09:41 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
1977 27' Overlander
1954 25' Cruiser
1990 34.5' Airstream 345
VC Highlands
, Nevada
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,151
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My haurralic actuator can go from 0 to full pressure(1600 psi) in half a second. I can tell you from experience that full pressure is more than enough to lock the wheels. So if I only really need to go to - say, half pressure - It takes less time to get there.
Hydraulic is fast. Maybe not as fast as electric. But fast enough and certainly strong enough. That's why I didn't swap over to electric when I replaced my axles.
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03-01-2006, 06:02 AM
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#28
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Rivet Master
1986 25' Sovereign
Southern Middle
, Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,319
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If you have the money, buy one of the brake actuators (do a forum search on that also because there has been much discussion), remove the brake booster equipment mounted on the tongue, bolt the new actuator up to the hydraulic lines and then wire it up. This way you do not have to run the vacuum line from the front of the vehicle. I didn't have the money to buy one so I did it the old fashion way. It will cost you over $1,000 to switch from your current brake system to electric and you will be going backwards in performance.
__________________
Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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03-25-2006, 07:15 PM
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#29
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3 Rivet Member
1978 31' Excella 500
Goose Creek
, South Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 136
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I have the hydra-vac on my coach, in the 2 plus years of ownership I have never used them ( I will change that in the near future). I have pulled over 3000 miles this way and although brakes are nice, I belive that it would be ok to go without brakes if you drive accordingly. I would not go on the backroads, there will be more trafficlights and other conditions that would force one to stop. Stay on the freeway in the right lane, leave plenty of space between you and the next vehicle and use your transmission to help slow you down. Since this coach is going to a permanent resting spot it would be hard to justify the expense of upgrading the braking system.
Don't flame me too hard, brakes are a vital part of save towing and the size of the tow vehicle also plays into this. In my case I'm using a 4x4 1 Ton Dually Diesel, my truck weight is more than the coach and the brakes are large and well maintained.
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03-26-2006, 02:42 AM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,944
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If this is a 70's type unit, it has hydrallic disk brakes. All that is needed is a vacuum line from the manifold. If you are never going to tow the thing again I would not bother if it is smaller than 28 foot. A big one may be snakey without brakes and an inexperienced tower. If you can, maybe you should hire an experienced person with a big truck to tow it for you. In the long run you should follow the lead of most other owners (including me) and replace the antique hydrallics with conventional electrics for a total cost of $350 for parts and one afternoon's labor.
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03-26-2006, 10:30 AM
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#31
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightdi
In the long run you should follow the lead of most other owners (including me) and replace the antique hydrallics with conventional electrics for a total cost of $350 for parts and one afternoon's labor.
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After having towed my Overlander with the new disc brakes, I would never go back to electric drums. My advice would be to simply add a electro-hydraulic actuator in the location of the hydravac. Disc brakes are definitely far superior in braking performance than drum brakes, especially electric drum brakes.
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03-26-2006, 04:39 PM
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#32
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4 Rivet Member
2004 25' Safari
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 424
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It might be over kill as we're towing a 25 Safari, but just the same we're set to have the brakes upgraded the middle of April at the mother ship. I've heard nothing but good results from those who have already had the upgrade.
Best,
__________________
Home of the Wayward Wind
Bogfrog & Mr. Turbo
If in life you stumble, make it part of the dance
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03-26-2006, 06:36 PM
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#33
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayWard Wind
It might be over kill as we're towing a 25 Safari, but just the same we're set to have the brakes upgraded the middle of April at the mother ship. I've heard nothing but good results from those who have already had the upgrade.
Best,
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I don't think that it's overkill at all. A 25 Safari is not a very light trailer, and the disc brake upgrade will more than likely make a huge difference in trailering safety.
My Overlander is a 63 vintage, lighter than the 25 Safari, and it is a joy to tow with the disc brakes. Especially since I tow with a 97 Suburban 1500, which is not kown to have the best brakes in the industry. It might not be a big improvement with a larger truck that has upgraded brakes. Still, though, I like the idea that I can descent very long and steep grades, tapping the trailer's disc brakes to slow down the entire rig without noticeable fade, which was not the case with my previous trailer's brand new electric brakes. Crossing the Rockies had me scared a few times. Which is why I went with teh discs on my 63 during the rebuild.
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