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Old 09-13-2007, 12:00 AM   #61
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New Brake Kit

Hi, I just read on the new Airstream web site they have a brand new brake kit to convert your troublesome disc brake system to the new dependable drum brake system. just kidding.
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Old 09-13-2007, 12:07 AM   #62
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ok bob enough of that funny business....


it could be true too...

cheers
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Old 09-13-2007, 08:54 AM   #63
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When I put a new Hays genisis brake controler on my truck, Actibrake told me to take all the power off the actuator (Trailer battery leads too) to reset the computer part.
Just an Idea.
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:59 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
Hi, I just read on the new Airstream web site they have a brand new brake kit to convert your troublesome disc brake system to the new dependable drum brake system. just kidding.

Believe me we've thought about it!!!

( I do love the brakes.... when they're working right )
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Old 09-14-2007, 01:53 PM   #65
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Well, I have had a duh moment- the black and red probes on my multimeter were mixed up (I didn't even know they could be changed)- so with that ironed out I can say there is no leakage at the brake-away.

Is this weird or normal? With my TV off and the red on the "brake" connector pin and the black on the ground there is a reading of approx. 6 volts. None of the other pins show any voltage.
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Old 09-14-2007, 02:58 PM   #66
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I used the meter to check the brake controller. I had my son move the manual lever while I put the probes at the brake connection & ground entering/leaving the pump. It moves from 0 to about 12volts when the manual lever is used. That's good.

**

I was also reading another thread where you can check your charge line by disconnecting the trailer battery and plugging in to your TV- if nothing works the fuse is bad or.. maybe the charge line wire has a problem? I did that and nothing worked inside the trailer.
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Old 09-14-2007, 07:00 PM   #67
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A suggestion DON'T BUY a meter that automatically sellects the different voltage ranges (if the meter sees different voltages ac/dc and varying voltages at the same time the auto meter gets screwed up at the same time confusing you and me)
That voltage you are seeing (guessing) could the sensing circuit, that detects the male and female trailer plugs are attached, in turn turning on the in truck brake controller.
In order to do any trouble shooting the truck and trailer have to be attached at the trailer hitch (mechanically) and the brake plugs attached (electrical).
One test that you should do, is (as above) hook the trailer and truck up mechanically and electrically,
1 do a resistance test, one OHMS meter lead on the truck frame the other lead on the trailer frame, theoretically the reading should be 0.0 ohms but in practice you may see 0.1 or 0.2 or 0.3 ohms resistance no more. then do a dc voltage reading between the same points on the 2 chassis, this will help disprove a flotting ground, reading should be a definate 0.0volts
2 then disconnect the trailer from the truck leaving the electrical plug still hooked up, do the same resistance test (as above) should have the same reading as above. then do the same voltage test between the the 2 separated chassis this should be also 0.0volts proving that you have a good electrical ground wire.
one other thing you might do while doing the different tests start pulling and wiggling all the wiring.

good luck
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:36 PM   #68
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I will be away this weekend but I am wondering if anyone can tell me how to be sure my TV is charging the trailer battery. And whether it is normal to read voltage from the brake pin ((& ground) of the trailer connector))when the TV is not on.

I am also having trouble finding the TV fuse dedicated to the 12v + part of the trailer connector (04' Silverado 2500HD). The manual isn't very clear.. to me, that is. (Is there terminology I should be aware of?)

**

I received the new pump and a Hayes Energize XPC controller. The new pump is way different--- I'll have to take a picture later.
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:45 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I will be away this weekend but I am wondering if anyone can tell me how to be sure my TV is charging the trailer battery. And whether it is normal to read voltage from the brake pin ((& ground) of the trailer connector))when the TV is not on.
Seems unusual to see voltage on the brake pin connector with the TV disconnected ( or connected, for that matter).
Check the TV umbilical connector on the correct prong to ground for battery voltage.
Then, check the trailer's umbilical cord on the correct prong to ground with the trailer battery fully charged. You should read 13...V on both counts. If there's voltage present, then chances are the system is charging ok. If you can't get voltage at the truck end, then start the truck and try again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I am also having trouble finding the TV fuse dedicated to the 12v + part of the trailer connector (04' Silverado 2500HD). The manual isn't very clear.. to me, that is. (Is there terminology I should be aware of?)
Read the manual. Sorry....

**

Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I received the new pump and a Hayes Energize XPC controller. The new pump is way different--- I'll have to take a picture later.
Yay!
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Old 09-14-2007, 10:59 PM   #70
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TV receptor (I hope I am being clear) read about 9 volts at the brake pin & ground. The trailer umbilical read nothing at the same corresponding points, while not connected to the TV.

I did check the charge wire while the trailer and TV were connected and the TV was running- I saw no voltage. That's what is making me wonder if it's a fuse or if the wiring is not right.
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Old 09-14-2007, 11:14 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
TV receptor (I hope I am being clear) read about 9 volts at the brake pin & ground. The trailer umbilical read nothing at the same corresponding points, while not connected to the TV.

I did check the charge wire while the trailer and TV were connected and the TV was running- I saw no voltage. That's what is making me wonder if it's a fuse or if the wiring is not right.
If that is a fact, then you have more than one problem.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:36 AM   #72
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Unbelievable!!

I have a 2004 Chevy 2500HD duramax. I had my brake controller (old one) installed by the dealership. Because of an alert I read from azflycaster on another thread, I decided to track down where the fuse is for the charge line in my truck. Interstingly I found it, and it is a fake. It is something they should have put in; it doesn't come installed- it's taped to the wiring harness... that they used! (In picture: Fuse is the Red "B+ position (Stud 1) top left-hand corner)

Off to the auto parts store...

BTW without a fully charged trailer battery.. would the Actibrake not function properly? That's what it says in the manual, but I don't know if the actions I've had would be a result of that?!? At any rate my trust factor in the "pros" is what it is, and my signature is what it is because of that. That is why I'm droning on and on in this thread. I need to know my own system- the people I throw money at don't seem to care or know *%#*!
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:48 AM   #73
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Uh... Eureka...!

My coffee is sloshing around and I am just starting to think clearly. If there is no fuse for my charge line, which is the same thing as the 12v + I need to operate the Actibrake... how in the world is the pump functioning? Is it using the power from the brake-away battery through the brake-away wiring?
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:53 AM   #74
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do you have a seperate break away battery? if it uses the trailer battery i think the brakes would work until the battery was too weak to operate it. then possibly, the brakes would lock to alert you of a hazardous condition?
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:58 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
My coffee is sloshing around and I am just starting to think clearly. If there is no fuse for my charge line, which is the same thing as the 12v + I need to operate the Actibrake... how in the world is the pump functioning? Is it using the power from the brake-away battery through the brake-away wiring?
This is getting more fascinating by the minute, Tanya.

OK, let's summarize:

12V at charge wire connection at fuse box? It should be connected to an external stud outside the fuse box, fused by a 20 or30A fuse, maybe 40A, even. yes/no?
12V at trailer connector TV side? You should read 12or13v there from the charge pin to ground.yes/no?
12V at hot side of the breakaway switch? Try this with the tow vehicle disconnected, record your findings,and then connect it, run it, and again record your findings. Assuming that the coach battery is fully charged.Yes/no?
12V at battery cable positive terminal, when disconnected from the battery?
Battery voltage with battery disconnected?
leva the negative cable on, and check from positive to negative battery post, and ten from positive battery post to bare aluminum somewhere, like the wall or a rivet etc. see what we got.
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Old 09-17-2007, 12:05 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
My coffee is sloshing around and I am just starting to think clearly. If there is no fuse for my charge line, which is the same thing as the 12v + I need to operate the Actibrake... how in the world is the pump functioning? Is it using the power from the brake-away battery through the brake-away wiring?
The positive (power supply, 12V+) of the actibrake should be wired to the coach battery. It will function as long as the battery has a sufficient charge, tow vehicle or not. This has nothing to do with the breakaway switch, only that the breakaway switch is also wired to 12V, applying power to the actibrake's breakaway circuit in case of emergency.
The breakaway switch is NOT the main power supply. It will supply power to the control circuit of the actibrake, not the pump itself. It does get it's power from the coach battery, though.

Like this:

Normal operation:

Breakaway switch inactive, battery power to the actibrake from the coach battery, control voltage to the actibrake from the brake controller. Coach battery is supposed to be replenished constantly via the truck's charge line.


Emergency operation.

Trailer hurdling down the road aimlessly, tow vehicle going elsewhere. Pin is pulled from the breakaway switch. 12V applied to the Control Circuit, while 12V is also supplied to the pump circuit. Since the 12V is similar to full brake input from the brake controller, actibrake thinks "full power stop" and applies brakes very hard, thereby cancelling trailer's desire to smash into each and any object in it's way. Hopefully sooner than later.
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Old 09-17-2007, 02:49 PM   #77
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My afternoon suddenly got busy with kid stuff, so I'll have to preform my test later.

I got the fuse for the truck and will see if that solves my charge issue.

Here is a scanned copy of the AB install- hope it is readable.

The manual shows how I am powering the Actibrake- through the TV, via the connector 12v+. The connection of the AB to the trailer battery is through the brake-away (brown wire).

My crack-pot thoughts:

My brake-away switch hot side is connected to a separate wire (not the charge line) that runs to the "Central control" fuse panel in the galley. The charge line to the coach battery also connects here with a 40a fuse.
The neutral side is connected to the Actibrake. The AB is connected to the coach battery. The AB needs power through the black wire, not the brown, but my truck was not supplying that power.

Could this have been the power to the pump if the 12v line wasn't functioning from the TV?

**Picture of "central control" 12v fuse panel. The colored notes on top of the manual schematic are how it actually is. The "spare fuse" is actually where the charge line is located and using a 40a fuse.
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Old 09-17-2007, 04:17 PM   #78
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It all looks good, Tanya. You should now have a functioning connection between the truck battery ( truck charging system when it is running)and the trailer's 12V system, meaning that the truck supplies 12V power to the trailer while you are driving. It therefore supplies steady power to the actibrake unit, as well as the trailer battery.
It might well be that most or all of your problems might have been related to the lack of charge from the tow vehicle.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:48 PM   #79
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Confusing the confused

Hi, simply put; Because GM dosen't install the charge fuse in the fuse panel to actuate the trailer charge wire to the seven pin connector, the Actibrake system has no power to work. Hence problems. For you, I hope this is the answer to this mistery. And step #5 on instructions is explaining the need for the 12 volts, from the tow vehicle, to work the Actibrake and the blue wire to monitor the signal from your brake controller.
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:58 AM   #80
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Well, my lesson is: Never ASSume.

Dealership installs a factory harness with a fuse taped to it. Maybe the fuse is still taped to it .

Even though I put in a new umbilical and changed the incorrect position of the charge line (mixed up with reverse lights) it still never worked.

Camping at hook-up sites has left me without the opportunity to drain the battery and thus figure it out sooner- need to get back to roughing it .

Voltmeters are fun and easy to use once you go down to the store to buy a new one and figure out how to use and read the one you have (still don't get the ohms thing).

*****

The charge line is now in effect.
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