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Old 03-15-2007, 09:15 PM   #21
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I would venture to say that your actuator has a hickup. Get it replaced, together with the brake controller. You should have a warranty on the item, right?
You have spent enough time and anguish at this point. These are wonderful brakes, and shold not give you this much grief, all things considered.
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Old 03-16-2007, 10:03 AM   #22
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I'm with Uwe...

with all this work, I'm sure you MUST be wired right. Can you call the vendor to help out with the warrenty work on the AB?

FWIW... I've had nice service from AB (had to put new wires on the used one I got cheap....). I emailed them and got a reply fairly quickly.
Marc
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:21 PM   #23
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Doing some clean-up...

I'm going to post a picture of my control panel and the original schematic.

In regards to the Charge line: Schematic has 2- 40amp fuses shown, with one being a spare. The picture shows it is actually being utilized. Here is what I think the wires are doing...

There is a 6g blue wire in the umbilical area that runs to the 40 amp fuse and goes through the low voltage relay, then leaves as a 10g red that goes to the rear and charges the battery.

In the schematic CB#3 has a 12g red wire running to the old brake-away. I am guessing- due to the gray splotchy paint on that wire, which is visible in the coupler area and the control panel.

The guy disregarded my illustrations and is using that red as the charge line.
He said he thought the blue was brakes (that's why I gave him the color diagram), so it's no longer being used.

I want to use the red for the B/A. And put the blue charge wire to a CB (like it was) and connect it to the 12V black of the AB and trailer connector.

Sound reasonable?

**The blue wire has a fuse, it is removed in the pic.
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Old 03-17-2007, 03:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy
with all this work, I'm sure you MUST be wired right. Can you call the vendor to help out with the warrenty work on the AB?

FWIW... I've had nice service from AB (had to put new wires on the used one I got cheap....). I emailed them and got a reply fairly quickly.
Marc
I have been in touch with AB and am going to do a few tests to help isolate the problem. But at this point, I am re-doing the connections that were done, and a few other things, that apparently the shop dog did... .

After we are done with that, we'll test, and....
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Old 03-17-2007, 08:10 PM   #25
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Okay, well, I decided to use the red wire, originally run to the B/A, for the B/A. And the charge (fat blue) wire is on a circuit breaker with the AB power and 12v+ from the TV.



When I called AB, Mike (great guy), told me to:

1.) pull the B/A and see if the pump shuts off when you put the pin back in.

- It does (yay)

2.) Use someone else's TV, plug in and see if pump shuts off after you take your foot off the pedal (instead of staying on- like it's doing for me).

- Neighbor is going to help us in an hour or so...

This will help establish whether it's an AB problem or our brake controller and/or wiring from TV to brake controller.

We may need to run a separate ground straight from the controller to the neg. terminal of the TV battery.

Ugg.
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Old 03-17-2007, 08:57 PM   #26
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Results are in:

AB goes into 'extenda-hold' mode when coupled with neighbors truck as well. When he tapped on the brake and when activating the manual lever of his controller, the AB when immediately to full on for 2 minutes.

So, I'll have to wait till Monday to know what to do next.
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Old 03-17-2007, 09:07 PM   #27
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hmmmm...

sounds like it may be the AB. Shipping for me (NW) to Iowa and back was around 47.00 (insured). Total turn around with shipping was about 2 weeks.

Will the vendor do a swap, or do you have to send it in?

Mike is a great guy - he took good care of me!
Marc
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Old 03-18-2007, 10:05 AM   #28
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I am guessing, the best avenue, is going straight to AB. I'm coming up on the end of my warranty- April 26- so, time is of the essence!


I was having a really hard time getting around why if the pump is going on full bore, there is no braking. It would seem to lock up the brakes instead of nothing--- then my husband made the analogy to his paint sprayer. When it brakes down, the pump motor goes on, sounds like it's working, but doesn't pump the paint... so, Maybe the AB motor is going, but there is a glitch in the pressure behind the pump?!

Anyway, I hope they're as good to me as they were you, Marc. I'm hopeful. And.... I want to go camping!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-19-2007, 10:55 AM   #29
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Called Active today. They are sending me a new unit, with a label to return my unit, and all without proof of purchase, or me paying the shipping!!!

I'm just so impressed.

Now, I hope it's the unit, and NOT the wiring. I'm done with the bozos in town.
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Old 03-26-2007, 11:03 AM   #30
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My new unit may be here Tuesday!!!

In the meantime, I would like to be sure the wiring is correct. Specifically that the 3 grounding points have been met:

The AB ground wire
(1) Goes to trailer frame
(2) Goes to the (VTS)12v panel ground bus (where the breakaway battery is grounded as well). SO, those 2 are done!?!

But, I need confirmation on the 3rd. Because I can't see the wires inside the wall, I am making the following assumptions as to the path of the TV ground to the trailer battery...

Umbilical ground> AS 12v "Control Panel"> 12v fuse panel (from VTS) ground bus> AB comes to the bus.... all connected? No need to run a separate white wire from AB all the way to the umbilical??????????????

YES? No?
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:20 AM   #31
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sequoiacoast, great to hear about the replacement unit. The next time I look for an axle, I know where I'll go. I can't help on advice for that system because I've never worked one. Someone here should jump in with ideas and info. Looking forward on see ya all on the 26th.
Don & Claudia
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:49 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
My new unit may be here Tuesday!!!

In the meantime, I would like to be sure the wiring is correct. Specifically that the 3 grounding points have been met:

The AB ground wire
(1) Goes to trailer frame
(2) Goes to the (VTS)12v panel ground bus (where the breakaway battery is grounded as well). SO, those 2 are done!?!

But, I need confirmation on the 3rd. Because I can't see the wires inside the wall, I am making the following assumptions as to the path of the TV ground to the trailer battery...

Umbilical ground> AS 12v "Control Panel"> 12v fuse panel (from VTS) ground bus> AB comes to the bus.... all connected? No need to run a separate white wire from AB all the way to the umbilical??????????????

YES? No?
No need. If the AB is grounded to the shell and/or frame, then that should suffice.
The metal of the trailer acts as one big huge ground potential. We're assuming that the umbilical ground is indeed connected to the shell/frame at some point, and that that very connection is solid and clean.
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:03 AM   #33
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I'm with Uwe...

I don't think your other circuits would work if you didn't have a ground.

Can't wait to see if this works! Did the mismatched umbilical / tv connection (I think it was the reverse circuit and the line to the brakes?) get ironed out?
Marc
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:22 AM   #34
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I agree too! But the manual calls for a specific grounding of the AB to the TV (via the connector). I'm trying to pin down that leg of the ground.

It would make sense to me that the white wire in my rear wall, originally connected by a fuse to the battery, is the ground for the charge circuit... meaning that this wire is tied into the TVground . Therefore that would be the TV to AB ground connection portion I need>> yeah?

***I did get my umbilical charge issues ironed out. At least I hope so. I have a new umbilical, but don't know how to test to be sure I'm actually receiving a charge to the battery. Even though I supplied a diagram, the guy form the shop didn't realize the blue charge wire was the charge (& not the old brakes)- so when I checked his work I saw it disconnected. I have since reconnected it to a circuit breaker and the Umbilical 12v (black +) line.

Hopefully I get the new unit today. It will be something if it all works!
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Old 03-28-2007, 06:37 PM   #35
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I have installed the new unit and run another ground straight from the TV connector to the AB. This way I know for sure the connection is there.

So far, the unit sounds waaay different- much louder- and it shuts off when I release the brake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Awesome!!

When hubby gets home, we'll bleed, and hope she brakes!!!!!!!
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:26 PM   #36
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Way, Way, Cool glad to hear the good news. Just to let you know that you are not the only ones that can have interesting problems. I've been working on the installation of an airconditioner in the Bambi. I was (was) about 2/3rds done when I ran a drill bit through the compresser coils. There was a beautiful jet of ice cold gas that escaped. One dead air conditioner. So it was off to Wal Mart and a new airconditioner. Nothing like a second try.
See ya soon.
Don & Claudia
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Old 03-28-2007, 08:57 PM   #37
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Don,
Oh no!!!!! I was just checking in on your thread and was awaiting more pics... and !!! Sorry!! It happens to the least deserving folks some times!!


But as your problems were commencing... mine have been fixed!!! No jinxes, fingers crossed....

Bring on the margi ball, WE HAVE BRAKES!!!!!!!
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Old 03-29-2007, 11:48 PM   #38
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Great news on the brakes, I've got the airconditioner fixed and ready to reinstall. It's kind of a long story for here. So later on the details. As Claudia and I ofter say, machines, aren't they suspose to last forever! Besides it's so much fun when they don't. Right.
Don
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Old 03-30-2007, 09:18 AM   #39
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yeah...right!!
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Old 08-13-2007, 10:50 AM   #40
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We have had no issues with the brakes until this past weekend trip to Fort Bragg. I hitched up and moved the trailer closer to the house for loading and plugging in the fridge. I decided to leave it hitched since we were leaving the following morning- I left the umbilical connected.

When we left the next morning I heard the pump come on while backing out of our street, however my husband reported no brakes as we made our way in to the gas station. You can imagine my face. The pump was not coming on when applying the brakes (or manual on controller).

So I changed a fuse- nothing. I unplugged the umbilical, then disconnected the trailer battery. I then reconnected the trailer battery and pulled the brake-away... pump came on, so I plugged in the umbilical.. and we again had brakes!!

So, I see the unit needed to be re-set... question is, did I commit a major no-no by leaving the TV and trailer connected? Is that what did it?
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