Emergency on the Road- Brake Repair

[cwf]

When I first bought Mjolnir, the brakes did not work well. Pulled drum/hub unit. Good magnets... then inspected the wiring to each wheel. Found wires corroded way up inside the cable. Stripped back almost to where cable entered the belly pan to get good wire. The magnet wires were ok so replaced bad wire, properly soldering and sealing connections. We need VOLTS and AMPS to make the magnets have proper magnetism. This means putting an AMMETER in line with magnet.

From website “hitchweb” Hello - On each individual electric brake magnet the amperage draw would be 3.0 to 3.2 max amps at 12 to 13 volts on 7-inch brake magnets and 3.2 to 4.0 max amps at 12 to 13 volts on 10 and 12-inch brake magnets. The max amperage draw for the brake magnets on a single axle trailer (2 brakes) would be 6.3 to 6.8 max amps on a 7-inch brake system and 7.5 to 8.2 max amps on 10 and 12-inch brake system. The amps will be higher if using a tandem axle or triple axle trailer. For further or more detailed information please contact tech support at 1-800-632-3290 ext 4 Thank you! Hitchweb Team

Since I had wiring apart anyway I checked voltage at each wire AND the OHMS in all 6 magnets. All were good. After making the repairs I put an AMMETER on the AS, tying in where the umbilical attaches to trailer connection block. As my wife added brake power manually, the AMMETER got all the way to 28 AMPS. Pretty close to average specs.

I realize modern systems may vary power to the brakes, but this was in a 2012 Duramax with stock brake controls. However the brakes worked great after.

Adjusting the brake level to 7 I can come close to locking the trailer wheels with the manual slide... crank it up and smokes all 6.

With a new or old trailer, make sure your power is actually getting to the brakes.. the AMMETER will give you a good indication of a potential problem

[Ray Eklund]

After doing all I could to take care of our 'braking problem', we are finally able to leave town. This has been a two week delay of our trip and a period of discovery and deciding to replace all four brake assemblies.

The 'Manual' that comes with your Airstream concerning your brakes, only delegates that you are responsible to maintain, service and know when you have... problems.

As a footnote: When pulling the original Brake Assemblies, two had the crimped wire connectors that separated with just a minor tug. They were not crimped as securely as they should. I used twist connectors and electrical tape to secure them. The long brake wires were raised, secured, so they were not hanging six to eight inches along side the axle. Any short bush could pull the wires apart...

I am apprehensive about the four replaced brake assemblies. They are identical to those replaced. They are 'self adjusting'. I will be very cautious about the 'self adjusting' aspect. They may self adjust the brake shoes, but if the electro magnet fails... I am back where I began this experience.

I now have enough tools to replace and repair these brakes, again, if necessary.

I emphasize again that everyone needs to confirm, themselves, that each wheel is actually braking. This requires you to get one in the air, have someone spin it and then apply the Tow Vehicle's Brakes and also the manual, to double check.

This is much like the days at Fort Wolters, Texas at Primary Helicopter School in 1970. There was a log book for each TH55-A training helicopter. The student pilot would log any problems they noticed. The first thing you would do is open the log book and see if any complaint was made AND if service had checked it off as being... fixed. Usually... not. My physical being was in danger if an aircraft was having problems. I could step out, go to the telephone booth at the flight area and request a different aircraft. After awhile, you just stuck your head into another, read the log. If it checked out... took that one.

This is how I now feel about my trailer. It needs to checked out. I have no recourse, other than going to a RV Dealer and have them do an entire Brake, Drum and Bearing". I am like the 90% reading this Thread. You need to force yourself to understand how the others, and myself check out our trailer.

Trailers and Automobiles have a different set of Safety Standards. Maybe change is needed in the RV Industry. I cannot be pulling my brakes apart to inspect every 3,000 miles. I cannot step into a telephone booth and hook up a different trailer...

[John Moody]

Hi there,
We had a similar issue with our 2015 Ford Expedition EL. In fact our situation was worse. The trailer disconnect light came on during two different trips and not only was that a worrisome, on both same trips after gassing up at a gas station this issue also locked down the brakes on the AS and we couldn't pull it! Both occasions we had to disconnect the wiring to the AS and drive to a campground very slowly and take the Ford in to be repaired. It had to do with a computer chip in the integrated brake system. We are on our third repair and have been told we had two duds. Let's hope so. We love towing our 30' AS with our Expedition! Best of luck.

[JCWDCW]

My 1989 trailer had one wheel lock up on me every time I stopped. Had to back up to release it . Actually scrubbed a flat spot on the tire. I finally got under the trailer and cut one wire to the magnet.and we got home safely on 3 brakes. Problem was the pivot on the magnet arm was binding and holding the self acting shoes against the drum! hence lock-up and no release. I lubed the pivot to free it up and no more problems.

JCW

[madmac157]

I’ve had brake controller disconnected messages before and all it took to fix the problem was to apply some dielectric grease onto the 7-pin connector electrodes. I clean the connector and reapply dielectric grease at beginning of camping season. It has worked every time so far.

[Jfuse]

Ray,
I had a similar experience last year with my Ford f 250. The Trailer Disconnect Light would appear at random. Here is what I found:
First, I had purchased a 2018 Airstream, and traded in a 2013. The 7 way plug may be the same size, but it did not fit as tightly in the Truck socket.
Second, there appeared to be extra cord length between the trailer and the truck, and additional weight pulling on the connection as a result. I finally figured out the puzzle when the Trailer Disconnect Light appeared as I was making a sharp right turn.out of an RV park on to the highway.
The loose connection, weight of the cord and right turn pull on the cord gave it away.
I now wrap a small bungee cord around the connection...never happened again.

John

[paiceman]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

After doing all I could to take care of our 'braking problem', we are finally able to leave town. This has been a two week delay of our trip and a period of discovery and deciding to replace all four brake assemblies.

The 'Manual' that comes with your Airstream concerning your brakes, only delegates that you are responsible to maintain, service and know when you have... problems.

As a footnote: When pulling the original Brake Assemblies, two had the crimped wire connectors that separated with just a minor tug. They were not crimped as securely as they should. I used twist connectors and electrical tape to secure them. The long brake wires were raised, secured, so they were not hanging six to eight inches along side the axle. Any short bush could pull the wires apart...

I am apprehensive about the four replaced brake assemblies. They are identical to those replaced. They are 'self adjusting'. I will be very cautious about the 'self adjusting' aspect. They may self adjust the brake shoes, but if the electro magnet fails... I am back where I began this experience.

I now have enough tools to replace and repair these brakes, again, if necessary.

I emphasize again that everyone needs to confirm, themselves, that each wheel is actually braking. This requires you to get one in the air, have someone spin it and then apply the Tow Vehicle's Brakes and also the manual, to double check.

This is much like the days at Fort Wolters, Texas at Primary Helicopter School in 1970. There was a log book for each TH55-A training helicopter. The student pilot would log any problems they noticed. The first thing you would do is open the log book and see if any complaint was made AND if service had checked it off as being... fixed. Usually... not. My physical being was in danger if an aircraft was having problems. I could step out, go to the telephone booth at the flight area and request a different aircraft. After awhile, you just stuck your head into another, read the log. If it checked out... took that one.

This is how I now feel about my trailer. It needs to checked out. I have no recourse, other than going to a RV Dealer and have them do an entire Brake, Drum and Bearing". I am like the 90% reading this Thread. You need to force yourself to understand how the others, and myself check out our trailer.

Trailers and Automobiles have a different set of Safety Standards. Maybe change is needed in the RV Industry. I cannot be pulling my brakes apart to inspect every 3,000 miles. I cannot step into a telephone booth and hook up a different trailer...

Ray

I am in the process of changing all four on our 2017 Classic to manual adjusting brakes. May still bind or break but a much less complicated design. I’d have it done by now but 8” of rain in 48 hours has changed priorities.

When joining the wires from the trailer and brakes together I crimp them with the proper gauge connectors and then with a heat gun melt the connector at both ends. And yes all this will travel with me along with spare brake plates.

Good luck and safe travels

Bud

[Abraham]

[QUOTE=Jfuse;2154128]Ray,
I had a similar experience last year with my Ford f 250. The Trailer Disconnect Light would appear at random. Here is what I found:
First, I had purchased a 2018 Airstream, and traded in a 2013. The 7 way plug may be the same size, but it did not fit as tightly in the Truck socket.
Second, there appeared to be extra cord length between the trailer and the truck, and additional weight pulling on the connection as a result. I finally figured out the puzzle when the Trailer Disconnect Light appeared as I was making a sharp right turn.out of an RV park on to the highway.
The loose connection, weight of the cord and right turn pull on the cord gave it away.
I now wrap a small bungee cord around the connection...never happened again.

John[/QUOTE

Check your 7 wire connector on your tow vehicle! If the hinge of the cover is NOT on the top, your connector is installed incorrectly. If gravity is hurting your connection, then it is probably up side down. (see my earlier comment on page 2 of this thread.)
Many new trucks have it installed wrong from the factory. DOn't know what they are thinking!!!

If you need a bungie, it is probably installed WRONG!

7 WIRE CONNECTOR COVER DOOR HINGE MUST BE ON TOP FOR THE LATCH TO PROPERLY HOLD THE PIGTALE IN PLACE ! ! !

OTHERWISE THE BRAKES ARE THE FIRST THING TO FAIL ! ! !

Abe

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by madmac157

I’ve had brake controller disconnected messages before and all it took to fix the problem was to apply some dielectric grease onto the 7-pin connector electrodes. I clean the connector and reapply dielectric grease at beginning of camping season. It has worked every time so far.

****
Excellent information to those in 'wetter climates'. This is a very common solution offered on the Ford F Series Threads on the Internet.

I live in the Desert and the trailer is stored in our RV Garage. But those who are use to precipitation in the form of snow or rain, this seems to be a cure for many.

I cannot recall when we had measurable precipitation. I have seen clouds moving through. Lightening. Nothing like the Carolinas, coming soon. This seems to be a good first attempt to narrow down electrical connection problems.

This was eliminated from my options, after finding the brakes had failed and power was available to each.

[Ray Eklund]

John and Abraham have also seen the complaints of the orientation of the plug on the tow vehicle.

I have been using duct tape for 11 years. Keeps the contacts dry. If the trailer's plug is going to pull out, it will take a lot more with it. Never had an issue with the plug, nor water needing dielectric grease... yet.

I keep a roll of Duct Tape and electrical tape in my Tools for the Road. Use a safety razor to cut it, and then store it by adhering it to the end of the tape.

Watching FlexGlue.com and that clear tape commercials... you can seal the top and bottom of your Airstream for any kind of weather or conditions. Someone may want to comment on their FlexGlue experience. The trailer may even... float.

[Norrie46]

I had the same problem last July leaving BC to travel to Ontario. Did all the things you did except the voltage check. I had the truck checked and no problem there. Took the trailer to Can Am in early November and they thought it was the truck. Brakes were still intermittent. Drove to Florida and problem was with me all the way. Again had the truck checked at dealer and they found nothing. At our final destination I changed the plug on the trailer still no joy. Asked another traveller if he would plug into my trailer still no joy. I plugged into his trailer and bingo first time we had brakes. Now I know I have a trailer problem. Got under the trailer and pulled on all the brake wire connections . Three wires on different wheels came apart with corroded connections. Cut them out, used wire nuts and tape. Tried truck connection and now I have brakes. No more problems on my trip back to Canada.
The shrink wrap applied by Airstream was never done properly allowing water into the connection and causing the corrosion. After my fix I never had another problem. I will now change all the other connections
happy travels
Norrie

[GCinSC2]

Norrie,

Simple logical technique found elusive problem. It worked.

Gary

[paiceman]

When I had a brake failure on the right rear brake, basically blowing apart, as I posted we were no where in the mountains in PA and I got out and disconnect the trailer - never got a message or warning at all. Must be if it's still connected the message comes up as not connected? Or my computer is missing something.

[Norrie46]

Just as a follow up to my previous post. Checked all the wire connections that I did not repair the last time. Gave them a good pull and sure enough all of the brake assembly wires broke and pulled out of the shrink wrap. All showed corrosion at the point where they were crimped. As I said before the shrink wrap was not properly bonded to the wire and allowed water into the connection.
All are now rejoined with wire nuts and electrical tape. Also moved the wire loop up so it is not hanging down below the wheel axles. Concerned that some road debris could hook up on it.
happy trailes
Norrie

[GCinSC2]

Norrie,

You’re gearing up to teach a class real soon.

How about taking a look at the condition of the 7 way trailer end plug? Look for bent blades, tarnish, heavy discoloration and a good fit to the TV connection.

Gary

[Skip Stone]

This forum has provided incredibly useful knowledge from seasoned streamers. I own a 2015 F-150 as my T.V., and since day one I have intermittent dash "trailer disconnect" notifications. I have summarized by T.V. and A.S. possible disconnect causes from the posted information:

T.V.:
1.Computer chip failure in the integrated brake system
2. 7 pin connector: loose connections, inverted plug (see photos)
3. Brake controller looking for brake circuit resistance to verify connection

A.S.:
1. Dexter brakes: magnet contact on inside drum surface and spring
2. Corroded wires up to where wires enter belly pan
3. cable that runs from top of plate to adjusting point
4. faulty trailer plug

I will provide this list to my A.S. dealer in Florida to hopefully correct the disconnect notification. I have also extensively cleaned both terminals on the truck and trailer. My first intervention will be to connect another trailer with a 7 pin connector to see if the notification continues. If there is not a warning, then I can focus on the Airstream. If the warning continues, I may invert the plug as suggested to rule out intermittent plug contact. I have attached pictures of the 2015 F-150 plug housing.

Can anyone provide any additional suggestions? As always I appreciate your advice.

Thanks, Skip

[Skip Stone]

Sorry - I neglected to attached there F-150 picture of the trailer plugs:

[Action]

The pictures you posted may be up side down based on the letters of the license plate.


The connector is showing a standard 4 pin and seven pin connector.
The four pin only controls trailer lights. (Stop, turn and running lights)
The seven pin connector controls those lights and sends trailer brake signals to the electric trailer brakes.

Note in the cover of the seven pin outlet. There is a short center plastic piece that sticks out from the inside of the cover when the cover is open. That piece engages the trailer pig tail to keep the pig tail engaged to the TV connector. An upside down connector cover would not keep the trailer pig tail engaged as well as a connector cover that opened as designed. This cover should be hinged at the top.


The four pin connector is not set up that way and can be installed in any manner and will still work as long as the trailer pig tail is fully inserted.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by cwf

When I first bought Mjolnir, the brakes did not work well. Pulled drum/hub unit. Good magnets... then inspected the wiring to each wheel. Found wires corroded way up inside the cable. Stripped back almost to where cable entered the belly pan to get good wire. The magnet wires were ok so replaced bad wire, properly soldering and sealing connections. We need VOLTS and AMPS to make the magnets have proper magnetism. This means putting an AMMETER in line with magnet.

From website “hitchweb” Hello - On each individual electric brake magnet the amperage draw would be 3.0 to 3.2 max amps at 12 to 13 volts on 7-inch brake magnets and 3.2 to 4.0 max amps at 12 to 13 volts on 10 and 12-inch brake magnets. The max amperage draw for the brake magnets on a single axle trailer (2 brakes) would be 6.3 to 6.8 max amps on a 7-inch brake system and 7.5 to 8.2 max amps on 10 and 12-inch brake system. The amps will be higher if using a tandem axle or triple axle trailer. For further or more detailed information please contact tech support at 1-800-632-3290 ext 4 Thank you! Hitchweb Team

Since I had wiring apart anyway I checked voltage at each wire AND the OHMS in all 6 magnets. All were good. After making the repairs I put an AMMETER on the AS, tying in where the umbilical attaches to trailer connection block. As my wife added brake power manually, the AMMETER got all the way to 28 AMPS. Pretty close to average specs.

I realize modern systems may vary power to the brakes, but this was in a 2012 Duramax with stock brake controls. However the brakes worked great after.

Adjusting the brake level to 7 I can come close to locking the trailer wheels with the manual slide... crank it up and smokes all 6.

With a new or old trailer, make sure your power is actually getting to the brakes.. the AMMETER will give you a good indication of a potential problem

Good info Channing, thanks. I got a copy of Dexter's brake manual when I was trying to find out why I felt like I had insufficient stopping power with my Classic 30. It says the magnets on 12x2 brakes draw 3 amps each at 12 volts. That is what I measured when I was troubleshooting. If I was supposed to get more, maybe that's why I could never lock my brakes.


Al

[Skip Stone]

Mr. Action,

Thanks for the response, and I will rotate the plug outlet this weekend. Hopefully a simple solution to a frustrating problem. I do understand why the pictures posted inverted.

Skip