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Old 05-11-2013, 06:52 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
John.

We have provided the Kodiak disc's for sometime, and with no issues.

They will fit your new axles just fine.

Complete kits are available.

Most parts are still available for the original Airstream disc brakes.

You can, if you wish, change out the actuator at this point and then see what happens down the road for the rest of the system.

Some owners have chosen to replace the actuator first, and then the calipers at a later date, or when needed.

Andy
Andy,

The Dexter actuator appears to be working fine even though I may have had some problem with the brake controller / actuator coordination. However, I'll work through this issue once I get the replacement brake parts in place. Call me when you have all the parts in stock - O-rings with piston boots and discs for 4 wheels. John
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:01 PM   #22
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Today I had an opportunity to begin the installation of the new pads for my AUSCO brake calipers. I cannot get the second pad to fit into its space next to the rotor. I made sure the piston was squeezed all the way flat and was not protruding out, but it still would not take both pads. I tried a second wheel with the same result. Even if I was able to force fit the pads, they would be so tight, I would still have the same problem that originally started this thread - dragging brakes.
I measured the spacers to be 1 3/4". Only way I can think that THIS problem can be resolved (with the new pads) is to increase the spacer size. Can spacers be purchased greater that 1 3/4", or can I 'fabricate' with some kind of material, something that would add another eighth or quarter of an inch to allow the two pads room to retract? I just want to be sure that I don't comprise the reliability of my brake assemblies.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:19 PM   #23
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I'm not able to help, don't know this setup. Suggestion, take a couple of pics and add to post.

Good luck.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:03 PM   #24
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I'm not able to help, don't know this setup. Suggestion, take a couple of pics and add to post.

Good luck.
Thanks GCinSC2. Today, after considering the problem, I am going to try to cut some 1/4" thick replicas out of some scrap flat plexiglass and see if that will hold up. If that does not do the trick, then I'll look for a flat piece of 1/4" aluminum and do the same. Unfortunately, I am still kind of ignorant when it comes to attaching pics to this forum.
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:14 PM   #25
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3 ideas.

Call me Gary.

Brake parts can get hot, plastic might not be a super wise idea.

Got a 13yr old anywhere to help with pics.

Contact and review with pad supplier the issue.

OK, that was 4, sorry.

Gary
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:40 PM   #26
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I fabricated some shims from 1/8" AL flat bar. Have put two on and looking good so far. Now, for the other two wheels, I am cleaning up the pistons and putting in new seals. When I got to the step where I insert the piston into the new boot, boy I can't get that sucker to go in! I'm going step by step using the AS manual. The only 'wooden tool' I found was an old golf tee and I still can't get the boot started up onto the piston. Can anyone offer some help? i want to get this tin can off the jacks this weekend.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:07 AM   #27
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You can get Kodiak disc brakes to replace the obsolete system you now have. The actuator is the single most expensive part of the system, and you already have it.
Don't want to leave this thread hanging - wheels are back on the ground as of yesterday evening. Three months of searching for parts and re-furbishing the old brakes was not a job I want to tackle again. Any more problem with them and I'll take Overlander63's advice and replace all the calipers. Thanks to all who gave me their support.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:30 PM   #28
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I am now in the process of replacing my calipers and rotors. I have been suffering since we got the trailer in 2006 with these brakes. They are so loose and chatter as we go down the road, embarassing. All of that rattling back and forth have banged the metal of everything that moves. The caliper pins have beem smashed down so much that they has tons of slop in them. I thought perhaps I could build them up by welding. It seemed to work, they are more solid. I also welded the broken pin welds also - half were broken and loose. But all of that work did not look good enough to me. That plus I was bending the ears off my pads from normal stopping, enough bending and the pad slips out, leaving the piston to grind against the rotor. I have 2 trashed rotors. The ears on those pads are just not strong enough - period. Also, one of my pads, a fairly new one, was loose - the brake material literally wiggles on the plate. The trust factor on them is near zero.

For installing the pads, I use a C-clamp to force the piston in almost all the way. I insert the inside pad first with only the bottom pin installed. Then I put the outside one in next. One thing I have done is to loosen the 4 bolts that run through the spacers enough to give me some play - leaving the bottom pin still in place and clipped. This makes it easier to install the pads. When they are in, I simply tighten the 4 bolts up and insert that top pin and clip - done.

When I am done I believe I will have some spare brake parts laying around... Oh, and about those boots, I had 4 wheels to do, so I ordered 8 boots and broke 4 of them putting them back on. Because of all of the brake pads I have lost, I have only one still intact boot, the rest have been torn.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:57 AM   #29
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Buttercup,

Dexter 4 piston hydraulic brakes, right?

Any chance for some pics for us to ponder with?

I re-did my calipers and did not damage any boots. After installing the piston seal in the housing I would install the new boot on the piston only seating the ID of the seal in the groove. Then I placed the piston in the bore lubricated the piston and seal and used a shop drill press as an insertion press and carefully pushed the pinton down a bit. Then I seated the seal OD in the caliper housing and carefully burped the boot and helped set the seal folds.

Any rust issues in the caliper housing or on the pistons?

Gary
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:37 AM   #30
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Gary,

The originals are the original that came with the trailer, not Dexter but yes, 4 piston. I removed the old vacuum actuator and installed a Dexter E/H actuator that has served faithfully every day. . A few years ago I did post some pictures of the work I did with them HERE. You can see what they looked like. I don't really have any riust issues on the calipers, they are overall in decent condition. I suspect that the bushings pressed in them are questionable. I did replace the pad pins with new pins my brother machined for me, and that helped a little, but still the caliper posts that it rides on is so hammered down that they still banged around all the time.
One thing I did discover was that there was evidence from day one of this problem and perhaps an item to remember if you ever inspect a trailer for someone. The pads I pulled out during my first repack, prior to hauling her home, has the ears peened down.
This is the As Found picture of the street side wheel well


And this is the very first brake pad...See the flared out metal on the ears?
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:53 PM   #31
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Buttercup,

Really different than the Dexters on mine. My calipers are fixed position yours float. Yours 1 piston per caliper, mine 4 pistons per caliper. Yours o-ring mine square ring. Our dust seals look similar.

IMHO the dust seals are critical big time elements.

The limited work I have done on cars, the floating calipers float but they hold position and allow for wear, they don't wiggle loosely.

PM to follow.

Good luck.

Gary
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:03 PM   #32
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Gary, thanks. Got it. 4 pistons per caliper, heh? I am going to have to look at, never saw that before.

In my case, those calipers float freely, TOO freely!
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:08 PM   #33
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After installing the discs and re-assembling everything, I discovered that the controller on the F250 was possibly bad. So, I purchase another one and things started looking up. I actually had brakes when I engaged the pedal.
Last weekend, my wife reluctantly accompanied me on a short trial run of about 5 miles. At first everything appeared to be working as it should, then I lost my trailer brakes. After getting back to our home, I saw that a wheel had brake fluid splattered all over.
This morning I found that I had lost a top clevis pin and two expensive new brake discs. And, the caliper piston had broke its boot allowing the fluid to flow out.
I've ordered more discs from Mr. Andy along with other needed brake parts. I purchased 8 bronze bushings at $12 each to replace at each caliper. Along with everything else on this Airstream, these parts are expensive and I don't want to mess up the bushings during installation. Is there anyone who has removed and replaced the pin bushings that can offer advice? Should I pay a machine shop to remove and press new ones in place? Or, is this something my shop vice can handle?

BTW, I did finally figure how to replace the piston boot, so replacing it shouldn't be the problem it was for me before.

After a year since purchase, I hope to get this thing rolling and link up with a club somewhere. Thanks ahead for any suggestions.
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:04 PM   #34
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Check the posts in this thread for 6/62006. I posted ausco parts and other info.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:19 AM   #35
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Check the posts in this thread for 6/62006. I posted ausco parts and other info.
Excella CM, can you be a little more specific please?
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:45 AM   #36
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Excella CM, can you be a little more specific please?
You can remove the original caliper bushings by using a proper size "socket"

The diameter of the socket should be a little less than the bushing outer diameter.

Either press the old bushings out, or you can hammer them out, using the socket.

Then press the new bushings in place the same way you used to take out the old ones.

Andy
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:00 PM   #37
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check response #12 for two pictures.




http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ers-23325.html
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