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Old 05-01-2006, 05:14 PM   #21
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1966 26' Overlander
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You can pull the pin to check the operation. Leaving the pin out for a long period of time could cause damage.

I would suggest pulling the pin and checking the operation and reinserting the pin. If you have someone by an axleto listen for any kind of noise the operation would take a few seconds.

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Old 05-02-2006, 09:07 PM   #22
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I have a further question regarding the breakaway switch. (I don't know if a new thread should have been created or not.) Anyway, my breakaway cable is threaded through one of the chains and attached to the hook at the end of the chain which attaches to the TV. I don't know if it came from the factory that way or not (2006 model). I don't know if the breakaway switch should be pulled in the event the trailer comes totally disconnected from the TV or when the safety chains are keeping the trailer from coming totally disconnected. The way I have the breakaway switch cable connected, the breakaway would only work when the trailer is totally disconnected. To me, it seems like you would want the breakaway to activate the brakes either way. Your thoughts. I also ready in another thread the length of the chains should keep the tongue from hitting the road if disconnected. Sorry for getting off the subject.
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Old 05-02-2006, 09:23 PM   #23
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Reading other posts I may have found the answers I was looking for. Chains should keep the trailer tongue from dragging and breakaway switch should be activated if that happens.
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formerly 2006 34' Classic

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Old 05-02-2006, 10:38 PM   #24
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your breakaway should be attached to a part of the truck that cannot fall off in the event of the towing system failing, including the whole reciever assembly failing off.

i thread mine around the bumper on my truck through the area around the license plate.

that way, the whole works can come apart and the pin will still get pulled.

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Old 05-02-2006, 11:48 PM   #25
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An 'eye' hook next to the plate....

Hello all -

When I had my recent 'new Break-away switch' adventure I went ahead and remounted it correctly.

Previously it was mounted under the tongue (with ability to swivel) but that seemed restictive if the trailer should happen to come unhitched - VERY UN-linear physics. My thinking was that the pin should be a straight pull out, not an 'off on a tangent of the BAS line'. Overthinking again!?

So I remounted the switch on the top of the tongue with an offset bracket on the Tongue jack mounting bolt - again with swivel ability. I also mounted an ''eye hook" on a straight line with the BAS. I drilled a small hole in the bumper right next to the licence plate on the same side the the BAS. Double nutted the bugger. Done.

Now, when it comes time to hitch SilverToy, I will likely double over the cable, through the 'eye hook',and reattach to the BAS with the same attachment as before. MUCH less play and give than before, ONLY NOW it is guarenteed to pull out straight as SOON as the trailer becomes unhooked for any reason - assuming forward motion. Chains and all that will be stressed but then she should stop ASAP!

HOPING NEVER TO NEED THIS, but it never hurts to be overly cautious.

Hope I am describing this OK for everyone! Let me know if clarifications are needed. BTW - the 'eye hook' looks very purposefull and matter of fact - not ugly as I thought it might. Compliments the 'AIR' sticker on the window very nicely...!

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