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Old 07-25-2010, 07:01 AM   #21
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It would not hurt to pull the bearings on the "hot" hub and give them a good inspection, but I think that the heat could be drum/brake related as well.

You stated that this hub did not have a working brake when you replaced the backing plates. Is it possible that the drum had some rust on the surface since it was not being used. I would check the surface of the drum and clean up any problems before I put it back together and tested it again.
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Old 07-25-2010, 07:03 AM   #22
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One more thought. I hate to say it but it may have been better if you hadn't tightened the hub nut one notch. You want the wheel to turn freely but you also want the bearing just a little on the loose side when you push and pull on the tire. Not sloppy loose but just perceptably loose. This gives the bearings some room to expand without getting too tight when they get hot from use. You might jack it up again and check for some wiggle.

Also, if this drum hasn't been hooked up and braking like the others from a broken wire, it may be that the magnet is grabbing harder on the drum face making the brakes work harder. That should be getting better by now as it cleans itself off.
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Old 07-25-2010, 12:46 PM   #23
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The correct way to set a bearing nut is to run it in by hand while spinning the wheel. Then take a pair of channel lock pliers and again while spinning the wheel tighten the nut with the pliers just snug. Now back off on the nut at least one segment if it is a 6 point nut and 2 segments if the nut has more than 6 point for the cotter pin. When done wnd with the wheel still up on the jacks you should be able to feel looseness when working the wheel back and forth with your hands on the top and bottom of the tire.

The important thing is it wants to be LOOSE. Tight it TOO tight.

Remove the bearing clean it and look for dark blue color. If the bearing has color consider getting a new one.

If that one was tight I would wiggle the other three to make sure they are loose
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Old 07-25-2010, 07:08 PM   #24
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Thanks for the input - The Plan

Thanks for everyones help. I am going to

1. Pull the wheel and inspect/repack the bearings,
2. Adjust/check all wheels as advised again just to make sure,
3. Buy an extra set of bearings and seals to carry on the trip,
4. Buy an IR thermometer (I love gadgets anyway).

Thoughts on the plan are appreciated.

Driving through West Texas in August will heat any hub without any issues. We are starting from the Austin (8/14) area headed for Glacier National Park ending at the Balloon Fiesta Rally in Albuquerque (10/2) then home.

Tom
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:34 PM   #25
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If you are going to carry an IR thermometer you should keep this in mind.

If you want to test things while on the road try and come to a stop without using the brakes. Coast to a stop up a hill or into a rest area not using the trailer brakes. This will give you a true indication as to what was happening on the road. My tires will run 105 to 110 degrees in summer with a higher reading on the sunny side. The hub and bearings should be about the same. However if you apply the brakes to stop you can get a false reading much higher. Stopped this way you should be able to touch the center of the wheels with your hands.
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:11 PM   #26
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Arrived safe!

After starting this thread I wanted to update it after being on the road. My hub temps as best i could tell (my IR gun wont shoot thru the center cap so i had to use the brake hub) were 100*f after 400 miles and 85 -90 *f ambient. The tread was only 95*f and brakes were great too.

Thanks again to all that responded and I hope this thread will help others in the future.

Chris
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