 |
03-15-2004, 05:17 PM
|
#1
|
4 Rivet Member 
1971 23' Safari
Joshua Tree
, California
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 259
|
Trailer-Aid for changing flats
Hi All! This is my first post in these forums. I did a search first and couldn't find an answer so here goes -
Would a Trailer-Aid: Click here to view it, be a good investment? I have noticed that changing a tire can be a difficult and frustrating thing using conventional methods, and I wondered if there are any pros or cons to using a Trailer-Aid. I notice Camping World sells 'em too - for $21 more than my source!
|
|
|
03-15-2004, 05:27 PM
|
#2
|
Rivet Master 

2012 31' Classic
Golden Valley
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 575
|
First off, welcome to the forums!
I had looked at one of those but I am able to get enough elevation with these leveling blocks. Plus I can also use them normally.
|
|
|
03-15-2004, 06:45 PM
|
#3
|
Rivet Master 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,486
|
I bought a six ton bottle jack for about half that price. It has the added advantage of being available if the tongue jack fails.
Mark
|
|
|
03-16-2004, 02:06 AM
|
#4
|
2 Rivet Member 
Ann Arbor
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 96
|
trailer aid
I carry a yellow plastic Trailer Aid in my Airstream, but have only ever used it, so far, as a block under the electric jack. I carry the taller steel Trailer Aid in my horse trailer and that came in very handy once. Extremely stable and no worries about the trailer falling off or the jack failing. Also no need to unload the horses. In my view, a good investment.
Eugenie
|
|
|
03-16-2004, 08:44 AM
|
#5
|
Rivet Master 
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
|
Trailer Aid
The best Trailer Aid for "Tandem axle owners," is a couple of lengths of 2 x 6's.
No need for any jack, ever.
Pull the trailers good tire up on the 2 x 6's and remove the flat.
Done. No safety issues, No flat surface requirements. No looking for that "right" jacking point.
Andy
|
|
|
03-16-2004, 12:59 PM
|
#6
|
4 Rivet Member 
1971 23' Safari
Joshua Tree
, California
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 259
|
All very constructive replies, thanks. We've got an abundance of bottle jacks, and the leveling block and 2X6 ideas sound good, and less expensive than a Trailer-Aid.
Seriously Andy, how long would a 'length' of 2 X 6 be? I would guess 3ft would be adequate?
|
|
|
06-09-2005, 08:10 AM
|
#7
|
Rivet Master 
2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,449
|
Hi
Sorry to jump in on this thread or revive it - but as usual I am having problems starting a new thread - hope I have not been blackballed
Question: If you were to have a flat on a tandem which is the best one to go? Rear left or right - Front left or right.
I know none would be the ideal answer but if you are in a situation where you may have a suspicious tire - before you can get it changed.....
Thanks for any insight.
|
|
|
06-09-2005, 10:35 AM
|
#8
|
2 Rivet Member 
1996 28' Excella
Geneseo
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 67
|
The good thing about the 2 x 6's is they are often useful for leveling on the parking site. I use three of them [actually 2 x 8's], with the shortest one the same length as the footprint of the tandem wheels, then each is about 12" longer than the one above, centered beneath. I drill a couple of oversized holes to drop a bolt in to keep them from slipping away from each other. . . Many years of use have proved them to be very valuable for changing a tire, or parking both wheels on them. [I coated them with marine polyeurathane to keep them relatively clean, and to prevent soaking up moisture.]
__________________
Bud
1996 28ft Classic
2008 Silverado Duramax 2500HD
Hensley/BrakeSmart/EnKay
|
|
|
06-09-2005, 12:27 PM
|
#9
|
Retired.
Currently Looking...
.
, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by GT6921
Hi
Sorry to jump in on this thread or revive it - but as usual I am having problems starting a new thread - hope I have not been blackballed
Question: If you were to have a flat on a tandem which is the best one to go? Rear left or right - Front left or right.
I know none would be the ideal answer but if you are in a situation where you may have a suspicious tire - before you can get it changed.....
Thanks for any insight.
|
Left Front.
You have the best chance of seeing it when it goes, because it is closest to you. It will also be away from most plumbing. If the tire is that bad you are concerned it is going to blow, why not just remove it, and limp to a tire store on three wheels, and replace the bad tire?
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
|
|
|
06-09-2005, 03:37 PM
|
#10
|
Rivet Master 
1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville
, Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,043
|
There was a thread a while back where DavidZ71 solicited opinions on which tire would be most likely to go. I believe the consensus was either of the aft tires because the forward tires have a tendancy to, in effect, "set up" a piece of debris to puncture the tire behind it.
Although you asked for the "best" tire, I thought it might benefit you to know the most "likely" tire to give problems.
Tom
|
|
|
 |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|

Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|