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Old 05-14-2015, 03:55 AM   #121
Vintage Kin
 
Fort Worth , Texas
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Originally Posted by Msmoto View Post
The weights were, as I remember, steer axle 4400, drive axle 4300, TT 7200. As I understand the way things work weight distribution simply changes how weight is distributed on TV, and does not alter TT weight.


Ms Tommie Lauer
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2015 Serenity 30 RB / 2008 Dodge Cummins 4 X 4
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WD once tensioned adds weight to TV front axle and TT axles at a 2:1 ratio.
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:10 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
WD once tensioned adds weight to TV front axle and TT axles at a 2:1 ratio.

I guess what this means is that the tongue weight, for example, 1000 lbs would be split about 660 lbs to steer wheels and 330 lbs to TT wheels, correct? However, what I want to achieve with my auxiliary tank full is about 4500 lbs steer and 4600 lbs drive axles of TV. This will be adjusted via the number of links of tension on my Reese sway control/WD hitch, along with air springs on drive axle.

As fuel is used, the weight F/R should become more equal as the tank is slightly rear of center.

All of this will be given its road test as I am headed out for about 2500 miles in a couple days, will try to get weights with near full tanks, then after about 600 miles with 320 lbs of fuel burned off.

I may share my results, unless I am so embarrassed I have to make something up....,.LOL Oh my ....still LOL


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Old 05-14-2015, 05:45 AM   #123
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I'm on phone so can't easily link, so search "Gratz chart "and use the three pass scale method.

The short version is that if 100% FALR is achieved that the rest of the numbers will fall into place. The best starting point in other words for any future experiments.

If one cannot hit 100% then I'd start with a REESE 45299 hitch receiver vs the OEM piece. Can Am has a pic somewhere on reinforcing truck hitch receiver with diagonal bracing that clears spare. Receiver and frame flex is real.

I found that adding a rear antiroll bar and upsizing the front was of benefit on my 2WD. Helwig. On the list is also a Panhard Rod (Hendersons Lineup; StrveH has one). Had I a 4WD I'd be using the same supplier for KONI FSD shocks.

A 4WD will also benefit from a steering box brace. There are upgraded OEM and aftermarket steering boxes for the 4WD. Slop is a real problem for Dodge 4WD.

Past that is tires. Commercial Bridgestone would be my choice, but LTX Michelin a near second.

Air bags work against you, IMO.

A VPP hitch type is still the game changer. Trailer tail whip pretty much disappears.

This kind of change -- steering quality and resistance to body movement -- in concert with exacting TV tire pressure experiments inside Dodge limits would be more beneficial than concern over final axle weight numbers. Bias to TV rear axle will work out fairly easily.

As this is a thread on LT trailer tires I'd also make full sidewall pressure on TT tires part of the baseline. The TV is slower to come around when hitched, but one does not want sidewall flex to slow the TT reaction.

Gauge effectiveness by watching the rig in mirror in maneuvers. Not the "felt" reactions at steering wheel so much.

I think we all of us have a tendency to follow the front tires when stressed. It's the drive axle that matters (as you know) so the related tendency to overinflated the TV tires and under inflate the TT tires is the result (softer ride for TT). As you've been a racer I know I'd enjoy hearing your thoughts in re "just enough" TV tire pressure in concert with full TT tire pressure.
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:38 AM   #124
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We switched from Goodyear Marathons on 15inch tires with a date stamp of 2009. We towed on those old Marathons a number of times. But I always took back roads and never went over 50mph for fear of blowout.

We switched to Michelin LTX MS/2 in LT255/75-16 with new wheels before going full time. I also installed Centramatic wheel balancers at the time, Model 300-356 which are the Jeep ones, they're slightly larger based on advice from two other forum members I respect. I've been surprised to discover that the ride must be smoother inside the Airstream, we used to have doors fling open, hasn't happened once since we went full time.

I have a nice closeup photo with my Andresen's too



We have now towed 1500 miles on them, and so far so good. So far I am happy with my decision.
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