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Old 05-22-2020, 10:41 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaPepper View Post
I'll link in a couple photos that might help explain.

1. Regretfully I have not read your linked post. Well do you have the time now?

2. Great point -

ST225/75R15 LR-D Max 2540lb at65psi COLD to LT225/75R16 LR-E Max 2680lbs at 80psi COLD. Placard was not updated when tires were swapped by AS and previous owner (although he told me about it so its on me). IF AS changed the tires before the original sale they are required to update the lable by Federal law so it may be on them but knowing your numbers is good. What is the axle rating? & spring rating & hub & brakes? Tires are usually the weakest link but everything including the frame can be the weak link.

UBW for the FC20 4282. GVWR (axel limiting) 5000. Full tanks adds 500lbs. so not a lot of room for gear in the trailer assuming full tanks. I'm going to ask the 20 footer forum if anyone has considered getting a 6000lb axel vs 5000lb axel. Swapping axle doesn't help is the axle mount to the fame isn't strong enough.

3. My inspection is Pressure 80lbs before underway, tread depth and inspection of tread (honestly, I'm not an expert in any way and unless there was a neon light flashing saying "Replace Me" I might not notice anything beyond a symmetry flaw.

4. I'll be sure to check out replacement options. I'm leaning towards the GYE in the 15" (need new wheels - recommendations?) lf I had it my way I would open the wheel well a bit and move up to a 235/85R16 but thats a bridge too far at this point.

Please PM me if you have additional information to share. Appreciate your time.

Yes better tire pictures. Belt detachment. You may not have loast air before the tire came apart. That's why "Free Spin" inspection is so important for RV trailers. You almost never can see the warning wobble when the tire is static. Don't start with the claimed empty weight and add your estimate of the weight of the stuff you add. Get on a truck scale, At least learn the load on each axle when the TT is loaded to the heaviest you ever expect to be. Hopefully the tire capacity is at least 115% of the scale reading.
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Old 05-23-2020, 12:24 AM   #102
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Has anyone tried to check the treath on cavities by hammering it ( with a hammer) , and judging the sound ?

Once saw it done on television , for testing old tires, if they could be sold again .

A simple methode, for wich you dont need to yack up, to let the tires run free.

Have tried it myself, but did not have bad and good tire to compare the sound.
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:47 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by jadatis View Post
Has anyone tried to check the treath on cavities by hammering it ( with a hammer) , and judging the sound ?

Once saw it done on television , for testing old tires, if they could be sold again .

A simple methode, for wich you dont need to yack up, to let the tires run free.

Have tried it myself, but did not have bad and good tire to compare the sound.



About all you can do by hitting tires with a "bat" is estimate the tire pressure with a +/- 25 psi accuracy. In other words you will learn when the tire was already flat.
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Old 05-24-2020, 04:21 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
The CAT's are everywhere...I use them at will.👍

What exactly makes the weigh 'smart'?🤓 The 25 bucks?

Bob
🇺🇸
See https://www.escapees.com/escapees-smartweigh/

I had mine done several years ago. It's a lot more than just rolling up onto a CAT scale.
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Old 05-24-2020, 05:34 PM   #105
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More...in what way?

That's all well & good...but no one's answered the question...

If the street side is 200lb heavier than the curb side...do you move the reefer?

What weight variance too much?

We used corner weights all the time on our road racer back in the day...but the AS has very little wheelbase, with no real ability to compensate.
Tongue high heavy rear axle, tongue low heavy front axle.

Weigh the TV...I guarantee all 4 will be different...what do you move now?

Watch TP and temp and enjoy camping.

BTW....Some of the tire pressure advise in that link is a bit off base. The closer you can get to sidewall pressure the less chance of tire failure on the AS.

Bob
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:24 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
More...

Watch TP and temp and enjoy camping.

BTW....Some of the tire pressure advise in that link is a bit off base. The closer you can get to sidewall pressure the less chance of tire failure on the AS.

Bob
����
I agree sith bob. Great advice. The guide touts Marathons Not very current
I'm fortunate in that the county has a number if ag scales around the county. One us .5 mi from storage. Never anyone there so have a chance to do the left right dance & move stuff around to see the effect.

Always wondered about accuracy...ag scale but then one day ran into the state w&m inspector there and had a nice chat. Now have more respect for roadside scales, at least in OR. We're not weighing gold here.

Btw left to right was 100 lbs diff. Moved the dog food and box of wine. All groovy, that is until it's time to find a liquor store...some things are fluid. Go camping.
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:24 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post

BTW....Some of the tire pressure advise in that link is a bit off base. The closer you can get to sidewall pressure the less chance of tire failure on the AS.

Bob
🇺🇸
I'm not sure "off base" is a good way to describe the advice. They refer to the real trade offs involved and they are not incorrect about that. Sure sidewall listed max pressure minimizes trailer tire damage but they correctly state max pressure increases trailer and content damage when the pressure isn't needed to carry the load.

The link didn't provide specific guidance on how much additional pressure over the minimum they recommend to support real load but general guidance for multi axle trailers is your tires should have enough pressure to support 15%-20% more than real weight. It is important for tandem and triple axles because the sheer on the tires in cornering is significant. For me, that is 55 psi. I generally run mine about 62 at 125% real load but I can tell you at first when I ran them at max (80 psi) the stress to the trailer and content was obvious; each time we stopped damage was common. Not doing that any more, I'd prefer to inspect and replace the tires instead, they call them trade-offs for a reason.
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Old 05-25-2020, 12:47 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
. . .
Btw left to right was 100 lbs diff. Moved the dog food and box of wine. All groovy, that is until it's time to find a liquor store...some things are fluid. Go camping.
. . .
Bingo!

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Old 05-25-2020, 05:41 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Bingo!

And then re-weigh & see if it did any good?
Damn the L/R is still 50lb heavy.

33yrs on the CAT...SFSG....'not so much the method, it's that you do it'..
Bingo

Bob
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Old 05-25-2020, 08:00 AM   #110
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Thanks for the link, unfortunately they’ve closed their Texas location due to the Covid-19. Arizona as well.

Ian
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Old 05-26-2020, 09:30 AM   #111
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Tires

One big reason for a tire failure such as this one when the tire blows and causes damage is the air pressure being too low which builds up heat and causes of Tire failure. I know that when you check the air tire pressure come on you must make sure that there's not a small leak because the valve core did not see properly. Always check your air pressure and then debe pieces a little bit of soap on the stem to make sure that the core seated. This same thing happened to me with a brand new tire on a brand new truck. I checked the air pressure and put the cap back without destroying that the core seated. It caused the very slow leak and an hour later the tire blew.
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Old 05-26-2020, 12:20 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
More...in what way?

That's all well & good...but no one's answered the question...

If the street side is 200lb heavier than the curb side...do you move the reefer?

What weight variance too much?

We used corner weights all the time on our road racer back in the day...but the AS has very little wheelbase, with no real ability to compensate.
Tongue high heavy rear axle, tongue low heavy front axle.

Weigh the TV...I guarantee all 4 will be different...what do you move now?

Watch TP and temp and enjoy camping.

BTW....Some of the tire pressure advise in that link is a bit off base. The closer you can get to sidewall pressure the less chance of tire failure on the AS.

Bob
🇺🇸

If the street side is 200lb heavier than the curb side...do you move the reefer? No. A reasonable reaction would be to ensure you are not that close to the next level in the inflation table.

You should always use the heavier end of an axle when you consult the load / infl tables to learn the MINIMUM inflation needed to support the load, then inflate all tires on that axle to that inflation. Also you NEVER round down in the tables so if your heavy tire is 1255 and the table for your tires says 50 psi for 1200# load and 55 psi for 1450" you go to 55 psi.

I don't know how much side to side variance is "too much" as the goal is to be as balanced as reasonably possible. You have to decide what is "reasonable" but you still use the heavier end load to confirm your MINIMUM cold inflation and you ALWAYS inflate all tires on an axle to the same inflation.

Most TV have a recommended inflation on the tire placard. That inflation probably provides a 15 to 30% "Reserve Load" while there was zero Reserve load on TT prior to Nov 2017. RVIA increased the inflation recommendation to have a +10% Reserve Load above GAWR. IMO that is still not enough for multi-axle trailer tire durability due to the Interply Shear in trailer application.


Yes The closer you can get to sidewall pressure the less chance of tire failure on the AS. because this results in lower Interply Shear and as I cover in detail in my RVTireSafety blog, it is the Interply Shear that can get you belt separation as covered HERE.



But what do I know? I'm only a real tire design engineer and court recognized "Expert"
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Old 05-26-2020, 12:24 PM   #113
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One big reason for a tire failure such as this one when the tire blows and causes damage is the air pressure being too low which builds up heat and causes of Tire failure. I know that when you check the air tire pressure come on you must make sure that there's not a small leak because the valve core did not see properly. Always check your air pressure and then debe pieces a little bit of soap on the stem to make sure that the core seated. This same thing happened to me with a brand new tire on a brand new truck. I checked the air pressure and put the cap back without destroying that the core seated. It caused the very slow leak and an hour later the tire blew.



As covered HERE. if the tire is run with low inflation and an active leak you may end up with a Sidewall Run Low Flex Failure. If you are a little low or overloaded for a long time then your failure is more likely to be a belt detachment due ti increased Interply Shear.
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Old 05-26-2020, 12:46 PM   #114
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Generally, when a tire has done this, you can look at it and see those small "age cracks" in between the tread......If you ever see that , do not run that tire.......it is unsafe and at speed will delaminate......its just the way tires are....
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Old 05-26-2020, 01:25 PM   #115
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As stated, I'm personally a fan of the old "bias-ply" tires for a trailer and have been running the old "Power King, Highway II" for years on the 1966 Overlander, 1956 Safari FK, and 1970 Safari Special.

Picked up a trailer last summer from a dear friends estate, this is the tire I will be buying in the future for a 1996 34' Front Kitchen, 7.00x15 bias-plys made in the good old US-of-A.

https://www.stausaonline.com/tires/sta-super-transport/

This is the company that makes many of the tires for Coker Tires out of TN.

"Generally" when a bias-ply fails, it breaks up in smaller pieces, causing less if any damage.

I've been on the forms for many a year and have "never" heard anyone talk about a bias-ply tire blowing out and causing damage (though I could be wrong)

Stay Healthy,
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Old 05-27-2020, 12:01 AM   #116
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... Michelin replaced my LTX’s with Ribs no charge. I have run Michelin Ribs ever since.

+1. I think I’m gonna go with the Michelin XPS Ribs next time too. The price isn’t that much higher than the LT Tires and they’re designed as a trailer tire to begin with. I’d definitely have more peace of mind when we’re on the road.
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:31 AM   #117
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….. Michelin XPS Ribs next time too. ….and they’re designed as a trailer tire to begin with. …..
That's not what Tire Rack says:


Highway Rib Summer light truck tires are for drivers who want a combination of heavy-duty load capacity, even wear and low noise along with traction on dry and wet roads. Sometimes used as Original Equipment (O.E.) on medium and heavy-duty 2WD trucks, vans and pickups, Highway Rib Summer tires are not intended to be driven in near-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice.


Since you're in Washington, I bolded a passage that you may want to consider.
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Old 05-27-2020, 06:43 AM   #118
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Great point, Barry, thanks.

When researching tires a couple of years ago, I seem to recall reading that the rubber compound in the Rib tire would get stiff and inflexible in cold weather, resulting in poor road "grip" [adhesion] -- not the best result on cold slushy pavement IMO.

Peter

PS -- Michelin FAQ: https://www.michelinman.com/faq.html

Under the heading "What are the benefits of a winter tire?"

"The tread rubber compound, an essential tire item, can be compared to chewing gum. As soon as the outside temperature consistently approaches freezing, your tires tread rubber compound begins to harden like your chewing gum would. Winter tires are designed with a more flexible tread rubber compound designed to keep your vehicle’s grip, traction and braking qualities at lower temperature to provide safety on cold, icy and slippery road."

Because the XPS Rib is not specifically marketed as a "winter tire" . . . the comment above suggests that it is not the best choice for cold weather IMO.



"Eyes wide open" . . . that's all.

PS2 -- Tire Rack link: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=XPS+Rib

Sub-title fine print: "Highway Rib Summer" -- click on this to open further details, where it says, under Winter Traction: "N/A" and "All season only."
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Old 05-27-2020, 07:11 AM   #119
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PS3 -- How about these 16" Michelin Agilis CrossClimate tires suggested by Ray?

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f43...es-200420.html

https://www.michelinman.com/tires/cr...ssclimate.html

[ . . . although not available online at this time . . . ]

Peter
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Old 05-27-2020, 07:47 AM   #120
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Generally, when a tire has done this, you can look at it and see those small "age cracks" in between the tread......If you ever see that , do not run that tire.......it is unsafe and at speed will delaminate......its just the way tires are....

Not sure what you are basing your conclusion on. Weather Check surface cracks do not in themselves mean the tire is "unsafe" or that it will delaminate. Not sure if I have seen many or even any tires "delaminate" from external surface cracks.
"Delamination" of "Detachment" of the belts is a function of internal stresses not external weather check.
Can you provide pictures and evidence that support your theory?
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