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pappy19 · 04-27-2013, 08:52 PM

I used to have a real problem making sure my AS tires and my TV tires were always up to pressure and especially in the AM when I wanted to air up when the tires were cold. By the time I would get hooked up and haul the AS and TV to the local tire shop, the tires were warm or I just said forget it.

Enter the Outback Compressor Jr. and now I do this myself in just a few minutes. I have never seen a better setup with the compressor bolted to the tool box and includes the ultimate stem hook that you don't have to hold onto. My new AS Michelins were down to 70 psi and I had them all up to 78 in about 15 minutes total. If you want a really good compressor, look at this one.

Product : Extreme Outback

switz · 04-27-2013, 11:07 PM

I had an air plug installed beside the rear license plate and use the air tank and compressor from the truck's air suspension. A 25 foot air hose with gage reaches the front truck tires and both tires on each side of the trailer.

ROBERT CROSS · 04-28-2013, 05:10 AM

In a pinch I use the compressor for this....

If we have the genset with us, I break out the B&D 120v unit, much faster.

Bob

pappy19 · 04-30-2013, 07:28 PM

I don't carry a genset and this little compressor really gets with the program. I also bought a couple of their professional tire patch kits.

Michigander · 04-30-2013, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pappy19

Enter the Outback Compressor Jr............

Pricey little bugger, but sure looks nice!

cwf · 04-30-2013, 11:16 PM

High volume and pressure: Bon Aire Compressor — 12V, 150 PSI, Model# DD-12 | 1 CFM Below| Northern Tool + Equipment

slowmover · 05-01-2013, 07:41 PM

I went over to SEARS and bought a Craftsman 3-gl compressor last year. "Big", narrow, but with ten tires it pleases me. A few minutes to change all tires and only moving it once. Not to heavy to carry or place in truck bed and fast, fast, fast.

Onboard air, some day . . . .

.

SteveSueMac · 05-01-2013, 08:22 PM

I ordered the Viair 450P. Probably overkill but I'm hoping it'll be the only one I'll need.

http://www.viaircorp.com/450P-A.html

Alphonse · 05-01-2013, 08:38 PM

Ditto on the Viair 450. I have had it several months and it works extremely well. Cords and hoses are long enough and I like the 100% duty cycle. Well made and the bag is ok and is easily stored in the truck.

GAArgosy · 05-01-2013, 08:53 PM

I was a Product Manager with DeVilbiss Air Power/Porter Cable several years ago. This is the one I plan on buying from Amazon.com in a few weeks. 150 PSI + the 1.5 gallon tank will be handy.

Porter-Cable CMB15 150 PSI 1.5 Gallon Oil-Free Fully Shrouded Compressor - Amazon.com

lewster · 05-02-2013, 12:42 AM

I don't carry a compressor on the road....but I DO carry this: POWERTANK - CO2 Air Systems

200 PSI @ up to 20 CFM! I can add 10 PSI to my tires over 100 times on one tank. I regularly use it to top off client's large 22.5" motorhome tires. Takes seconds and lasts for a few months!

SteveSueMac · 05-10-2013, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I ordered the Viair 450P. Probably overkill but I'm hoping it'll be the only one I'll need.

http://www.viaircorp.com/450P-A.html

(Quoting myself? Sheesh...)

Got my 450p and am looking forward to cold filling the truck and trailer tires in the morning. On my 2013 Duramax, the positive terminal is easily accessible, the negative doesn't look so easy to get with the compressor's alligator battery clip.

Compressor instructions say to connect positive first then negative.

Can the negative clip be attached to a metal part of the frame? I recall that from "the old days" but have no idea if that's kosher now. There is a "remote negative battery terminal" but it's WAY on the exact opposite location of the engine compartment and that would not work.

Alternatively, I could connect to the AS batteries in the trailer hitch - though the compressor's instructions say your vehicle should be running so you don't drain the battery. So 2 questions there:

1) if I'm NOT using the truck battery but my truck is connected to the AS via the 7 pin cable, is that "charging the AS battery" enough for this?

2) since there are 2 batteries connected (I assume in parallel) is there a risk of over-juicing the compressor this way?

Thanks for any insights you can share!!

dznf0g · 05-10-2013, 09:12 PM

This is out of your owner manual... hope it cuts and pastes correctly.

"Open the hood on the other vehicle and locate the positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on that vehicle. The positive (+) terminal, is located under a red plastic cover at the positive battery post. To uncover the positive (+) terminal, open the red plastic cover.

If your vehicle has a gasoline engine, the remote negative (-) terminal is a stud located on the right front of the engine, where the negative battery cable attaches.
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, the remote negative (-) terminal is the negative (-) post on the auxiliary battery on the driver side of the engine compartment.
For more information on the location of the remote positive (+) and remote negative (−) terminals, see Engine Compartment Overview"

And the overview....

"Engine Compartment Overview
United States Pickup Models Shown, Canada Similar

Coolant Surge Tank and Pressure Cap
Remote Positive (+) Terminal
Battery
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) Fill Tube
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter Restriction Indicator (If Equipped)
Engine Oil Dipstick
Engine Oil Fill Cap
Engine Fan (Out of View)
Automatic Transmission Dipstick
Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Auxiliary Battery
Underhood Fuse Block
Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
Remote Negative (-) Terminal"

dznf0g · 05-10-2013, 09:16 PM

hmmm, need to tell someone about the letter vs. number thing. Check you printed diesel supplement and see if it has that problem.

Alternatively, you can use any good stud on the engine block or accessory mounting bracket as the ground attachment point.

SteveSueMac · 05-10-2013, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Check you printed diesel supplement and see if it has that problem.

Alternatively, you can use any good stud on the engine block or accessory mounting bracket as the ground attachment point.

Thx dzn. Will check the manual for letters vs numbers and get back to you. The battery in the diesel is passenger rear (near firewall) and remote negative terminal is driver front (near radiator). Literally exact opposite edges of the engine bay

:-)

Before posting my question, I checked the manual but popped the hood to see exactly what it looked like. The positive terminal is easily accessible. (Oddly enough, the remote positive terminal is just a few inches from the battery's positive terminal) The negative terminal is about an inch from the firewall and access is restricted quite a bit by a bracket.

Will check for better negative connection in the morning. Thanks!!

ROBERT CROSS · 05-11-2013, 05:08 AM

.......get a spare 7way plug, connect the charge wire & ground.

Cord centered in the rear, no mess'n under the hood, no tangled wire in the fan, no sparks.

Bob

SteveSueMac · 05-11-2013, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

hmmm, need to tell someone about the letter vs. number thing. Check you printed diesel supplement and see if it has that problem.

Alternatively, you can use any good stud on the engine block or accessory mounting bracket as the ground attachment point.

Dznf0g - both my PDF and printed versions of the manual only use letters. I noticed that using the iPhone app, your post had all asterisks where the numbers showed up on the safari browser version. Probably just something to do with the cut and paste from your system.

As to the battery connection - sometimes, my level of dufus-ness is so surprising its almost inspirational. :-/

I was so focused on the main battery location, I neglected to notice that the remote negative terminal (on the opposite corner of the engine compartment) is connected to the Aux Battery which is 100% accessible!! Oy. Never mind. :-)

But thanks again for the suggestion.

SteveSueMac · 05-11-2013, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

.......get a spare 7way plug, connect the charge wire & ground.

Cord centered in the rear, no mess'n under the hood, no tangled wire in the fan, no sparks.

Bob

Hmmmm.....now that's an intriguing idea!

Are you suggesting removing the alligator clips from the compressor and connecting their cables to 2 of 7 pins in a plug so the 7 pin connector is now permanently attached to the compressor?

ROBERT CROSS · 05-11-2013, 06:00 AM

Well you could wire the 7pin directly to the compressor cord, workable if it's only used with the tow vehicle.

I would use quick disconnect's, so you could use either/or. 7pin or agulator.

Bob

dznf0g · 05-11-2013, 06:00 AM

Bob's suggestion would work...just make sure your compressor doesn't draw more amperage than the wire is rated for (doubt it is an issue). The opposing terminals in the manual are for jump starting your or another vehicle....very high current flow to a presumably dead battery. Your compressor is probably 10-20 AMPS (SWAG, verify your compressor) you can locate a ground on either battery or use an engine stud which is mounted to the block..An alternator bracket is often a good location.....your aux batt + and - are fine as well.