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Old 10-08-2013, 07:32 PM   #1
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1967 22' Safari
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Think Dexter reversed my axle flanges

Just got a new Dexter axle and I think the flanges are reversed
1967 22' Safari (single axle)

Nex Axle is 5000lb rated
Photo shows the left side of the trailer.
Yellow line is the center of the axle
Pink line on the left shows the short side of the bracket (closest to the axle)
Pink line on the right shows the long side of the bracket (closest to the wheel spindle)

Axle is has a bend upward to the center of the trailer.
Wheel spindles are center of the wheel housing.
Torsion arm has a downward (positive slope to the rear of the trailer.

Bolt holes don't align. The do if I spin the axle 180 degrees, but that just tain't right.
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Name:	Left side taken from behind the axle shows bend and long side of plate over wheel spindle .jpg
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ID:	197428  

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Old 10-08-2013, 07:37 PM   #2
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Well, you are right that something is goofy, but the axle looks normal to me. The long side of the mounting bracket is supposed to go rearward, in the same direction as the trailing arms. What does you old axle look like?

The attached photo has the front of the frame on the right, see how the long part of the axle bracket is to the rear?
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:58 PM   #3
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Maybe things changed from the original configuration. Too dark for a photo now, but on the original, the short side is back over and the long side is forward.
All other components (torsion arms, spindle, axle center are the same. but as the photo shows the holes don't align with the original factory mounting holes. Andy mentioned the back hole would line up and I would need to drill the front, but in truth with this one, neither line up.
If the "new norm" is to have the long side over the rear of the axle I can lock it in place and drill out new holes.
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thealt View Post
Maybe things changed from the original configuration. Too dark for a photo now, but on the original, the short side is back over and the long side is forward.
All other components (torsion arms, spindle, axle center are the same. but as the photo shows the holes don't align with the original factory mounting holes. Andy mentioned the back hole would line up and I would need to drill the front, but in truth with this one, neither line up.
If the "new norm" is to have the long side over the rear of the axle I can lock it in place and drill out new holes.
Well, based on that, to me it looks like your original axle was built backwards and the factory just made it work.

How about if you drill 4 new holes, mount the axle and go camping?
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:35 AM   #5
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I thought about that, but before committing I wanted to confirm it's A OK.
IMHO, it really should not make a difference, but from the company standpoint, they made it a specific way. so covering my bases.
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Old 10-10-2013, 04:52 PM   #6
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My 67 Safari had knockouts in the frame mounting plates that matched up with the holes for the new axle brackets. Looks like they were getting ready for the new way of mounting the axle.
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Old 10-10-2013, 06:10 PM   #7
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my only concern is 5000 pounds for a Safari...
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Old 10-10-2013, 06:40 PM   #8
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If you bought the axle from Andy at InlandRV, just call him. He'll step you thru it.

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Old 10-12-2013, 08:07 PM   #9
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Working on the installation now but would like some experienced advice.

Spoke with Inland RV last week and they advised measuring up to the center of the rear hole and making sure that the measurement is transferred then drill. FYI I think Andy is taking a break. Least I hope so.


What I'm finding is that the holes are not quite the same distance, but not sure that it really matters. (See pic pink circles around the holes.

I figure the bottom of the trailer frame needs to rest on top of the axle mounting plate with no gap.

My thought is to
1) Jack the axle up till the frame bottom is tight to the top of the axle mounting plate. (red arrows in the photo)
2) Drill 5/8" holes through the top of the elongated vertical slots to prevent the the frame and axle from separating. I could drill new holes, but the one on the right is too high to put a bolt on as unless I start grinding heads. Bolts, not mine. Or, drill new holes, but I'd like to keep a much metal on this bracket and not have a Swiss cheese meltdown.


Click image for larger version

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ID:	197638


Any one else out there replaced your Dexter axles and find issues with the above plan?
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:10 PM   #10
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@ Doug. I have the same knockouts. but no where near the new bracket.
I heard my AS was rare as there were a few that had the axles reversed at the factory.
I think Rare translates to PITA. and that's not the bread, but Pain In The Airstream.

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Old 10-12-2013, 08:13 PM   #11
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I noticed that 5000lbs was significantly higher than the original. Andy ordered it so I'd hope he got the right one. Bout too late as I need it on it's wheels and and the hover drive is on back order with no time to argue with Jawa Supply for a rush order.

Alt
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:15 PM   #12
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As long as the yellow arrow on the right is on the same side of the axle as the tongue.
Drill new holes where you have the yellow arrows. You should be fine.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:40 PM   #13
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I wonder if Andy has some special deal with Dexter where they drill the holes specifically for Airstreams. I got my Dexters from Carolina Wheel and Tire and they fit perfectly.. except 1) The holes didnt line up and 2) the Axle holes and bolts were bigger than the original.
I just drilled the holes, put the bolts in and that was the end of it.
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
my only concern is 5000 pounds for a Safari...
Frank.

That was Airstream's original axle rating for that year and length.

Andy
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thealt View Post
Bolt holes don't align. The do if I spin the axle 180 degrees, but that just tain't right.
With Dexters you do have do drill new mounting holes through the mounting flange and fishplate.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:27 AM   #16
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Dexters brackets are made for other brands of trailers. Airstream is a very tiny segment of their axle business and they use them on all brands. Better than custom drilled, not drilled would be my choice.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thealt View Post
Spoke with Inland RV last week and they advised measuring up to the center of the rear hole and making sure that the measurement is transferred then drill. FYI I think Andy is taking a break. Least I hope so.


What I'm finding is that the holes are not quite the same distance, but not sure that it really matters. (See pic pink circles around the holes.

I figure the bottom of the trailer frame needs to rest on top of the axle mounting plate with no gap.

My thought is to
1) Jack the axle up till the frame bottom is tight to the top of the axle mounting plate. (red arrows in the photo)
2) Drill 5/8" holes through the top of the elongated vertical slots to prevent the the frame and axle from separating. I could drill new holes, but the one on the right is too high to put a bolt on as unless I start grinding heads. Bolts, not mine. Or, drill new holes, but I'd like to keep a much metal on this bracket and not have a Swiss cheese meltdown.


Attachment 197638


Any one else out there replaced your Dexter axles and find issues with the above plan?
I put an axle on just about every other week. That(in the photo) is what you get every time. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole, then go at it with a stepped bit. It will take you one minute a hole and off you go. Be glad you do not have a Bambi, they have a very narrow mounting plate and there is virtually nothing to bolt to...
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:03 AM   #18
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If you can get your hands on a transfer punch. It makes it easy to locate the hole center.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:01 PM   #19
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@TG Twinkie.
Thanks. Wish I had one, but I used a small piece of 1/2 copper pipe. It's 5/8 outdiameter and really closer to 17/32 internal. With that I put 1 small vice grip around the pipe to hold it. Then I put the end of the pipe in the 5/8" slot and pushed it up as high as it will go. Then clamped the hole thing in place to prevent it from slipping. Once secured, I drilled through with a larger bit.
Holes are done and flages are painted with POR 15.
Just need to put back on the safety shoes and install the axle.
Assuming it doesn't pour rain here in Austin I should have the axle in by afternoon.

Just have to work on the AC and have have an issue I really don't want to look at, but am going to have to. Have a piece of angle iron, least at one time it was, that spans across the back. I believe it supported the bottom pan. It's gone. Nothing but flakes.
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Old 09-05-2020, 04:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank's Trailer Works View Post
I put an axle on just about every other week. That(in the photo) is what you get every time. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole, then go at it with a stepped bit. It will take you one minute a hole and off you go. Be glad you do not have a Bambi, they have a very narrow mounting plate and there is virtually nothing to bolt to...
Found this thread after discovering our mounting holes don't line up. We fall in that lucky Bambi category! Our welder says he can beef up the Bambi's mounting plate. You're right, there's nothing there to bolt to! Is this the right way to go? Or should we drill all new holes and get on with it?
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