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Old 04-13-2009, 09:02 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by chrisd37 View Post
Terry, the only difference in our procedures will be that I am lowering the trailer to the axles rather than lifting the axles to the trailer. The remainder of the procedures are exactly the same. Once the axles are bolted on I will jack the trailer back up onto jackstands and remove the wheels to do the shocks and electrical.

My belief is that the "lift the axles to the jack" procedure comes from one habit:

You drive your double axle trailer up on boards to change a flat, so anything that involves taking a wheel off means driving up on boards first.

Changing an axle means taking the wheel off, so habit drives people up onto boards as the first step to the procedure. (Of course! You're taking a wheel off, so it's easier to drive the other axle's wheels up onto boards!)

Once you are on boards you do not have the option of lowering the trailer to the axle and have no choice but to jack the axles somehow up to the trailer.

IMO the trailer wants to go down, and the axles do NOT want to go up, so why not give them both what they want!

No matter what, it will be fun to try a new method! I hope I hope I hope the stuff gets here early in the day!
My Trailer only has one axle, So I had to jack it up. Removing the tires allows for the axle to be removed with the tire wheel assembly not hitting the wells and bottom of the belly pan.

Don't lock on to your procedure to prove a point, What you are suggesting is dangerous, You could do serious damage to yourself and your trailer.
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:13 PM   #22
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The old axles are already off. I popped 3 of the 4 wheels off to have a look at things and (honest to God) had to use a jack between the wheel and frame to push the 4th wheel off the trailer. That told me "new everything, all around." The trailer is on 4 jack stands behind the axles and the super jack and SUV ball mount in front. It's not going anywhere.

Drilling what 1/2" holes? I paid for the replacement axles from Inland RV. The holes are supposed to be perfect which takes care of alignment. You just bolt them on and that's that.

Floor jack ,huh? Turn table plate? Ok now I understand why y'all think that way is so easy. With a fancy jack like that it probably is easy! THAT is what I am missing. If I can't make do with what I have tomorrow, then at least now I know what to go rent. Thanks safari62!
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:17 PM   #23
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Hey Aerowood, no worries, if it is not looking good I will totally abandon and go get the floor jack safari62 mentioned. I was thinking of a car spare tire type jack being used for lifting the axle (which I mantain is absurd) but the kind of jack safari62 is talking about sounds sensible.
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:27 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by chrisd37 View Post
The old axles are already off. I popped 3 of the 4 wheels off to have a look at things and (honest to God) had to use a jack between the wheel and frame to push the 4th wheel off the trailer. That told me "new everything, all around." The trailer is on 4 jack stands behind the axles and the super jack and SUV ball mount in front. It's not going anywhere.

Drilling what 1/2" holes? I paid for the replacement axles from Inland RV. The holes are supposed to be perfect which takes care of alignment. You just bolt them on and that's that.

Floor jack ,huh? Turn table plate? Ok now I understand why y'all think that way is so easy. With a fancy jack like that it probably is easy! THAT is what I am missing. If I can't make do with what I have tomorrow, then at least now I know what to go rent. Thanks safari62!
My vintage trailer mounting holes did not match the new axle. Sounds like newer trailers will. Good luck with that. Chances are you will have to cut off and reweld shock mounts....at least I had too. If so that can be done after axle is in place.
Renting a floor jack will help.
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:40 PM   #25
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Here's a motorcycle jack
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Old 04-13-2009, 10:56 PM   #26
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Chris,
I replaced my axles a couple of weeks ago without a floor jack. We used wooden blocks, hand lifted one side at a time placing a block under each side until we were close to the slots. We used a tire jack to finish placing the axles in the slots, drilled holes and bolted one axle on at a time (replacing one axle at a time). Honestly, I found it to be uncomfortable crawling under the trailer with just one axle installed and I can not imagine getting under the trailer with no axles. Please be careful.

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Old 04-13-2009, 11:07 PM   #27
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My vintage trailer mounting holes did not match the new axle.
That is a "pre-1969 thing", and he shouldn't have that problem with his '76.
As for his choice of installation methods, we've made our opinions clear, he can choose to reconsider, or follow his own path.
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:15 PM   #28
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What you are missing is a floor jack! Must have! Adios, John
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:21 PM   #29
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Oh DID I MENTION I'm 70 yrs old.
Oh, man, I gotta wait another ten years?


(Sorry, Roger, couldn't resist)
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:31 PM   #30
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Chris:

I jacked up my 31' 78 Sovreign to replace the axles. I was on a level floor so I did not have to anchor the trailer using the tow vehicle. I did make up a "C" shaped wooden frame on four casters that I had to move the old axles out and the new ones in. Once under, a floor jack was used to raise them into position. Wheels were off, drums and shocks were on. I am not a fan of what you are planning because you will have to get under the trailer while someone you trust lowers it in order to guide the axles into place.

BTW, my axles were the correct ones but the alignment is bad. After a bad experience with trying to get them aligned by an Airstream dealer, I will let the tires grind away since they have to be replaced every 4 years anyway, but that's another thread.
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Old 04-14-2009, 01:00 AM   #31
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Axle fit

1969 and newer trailers will accept new axles that have the shock brackets welded in place, so no welding is necessary.

They also directly bolt up with 2 bolts on each side.

Nothing to weld, and no holes to drill.

The welding and hole drilling is related to axles that will be installed on the 1968 and older trailers.

The drilling of the holes on the 68 and older trailers, is necessary because the axle mounting bracket was changed, as per Airstream's request.

The welding of the shock brackets on the 68 and older trailers, is necessary since their location on the torsion arm was different between the 2 Airstream plants, as well as different for some of those years as well as some models.

The only option is to weld them in place in the field, to make sure that the necessary clearances are met.

Andy
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:37 AM   #32
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Anybody see the news thismorning? or was it just a local story...

Mark (the bird) Fidrich, famous mlb pitcher, is dead. Truck fell on him. probably doing something like this.
Unless I'm totally misunderstanding, what is being described is completely insane. for the sake of a jack that costs...what? 100 bucks? rent for 15? borrow from a neighbor for free?
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:12 AM   #33
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My personal bias is to stablize the heavier larger object. Then bring the lighter smaller object to the larger one. Requires less energy and allows for more control (control = mass / (energy avalable to apply * presicion).
So the safty margin your way is Axel Mass/ Trailer Mass. The raise the axel approach is Trailer Mass/ Axel Mass. Big numbers are better.
This will take you a lot longer than you think, be very careful and get someone reliable to help. I would feel better with some leveled cement blocks as a backup.
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:13 AM   #34
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Anybody see the news thismorning? or was it just a local story...

Mark (the bird) Fidrich, famous mlb pitcher, is dead. Truck fell on him. probably doing something like this.
Unless I'm totally misunderstanding, what is being described is completely insane. for the sake of a jack that costs...what? 100 bucks? rent for 15? borrow from a neighbor for free?
Or a couple of buddies that have some muscles, who would probably enjoy helping, provided you offered a six pack, or two.

A wind alone, can topple the trailer off of the jacks.

Andy
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:56 AM   #35
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A wind alone, can topple the trailer off of the jacks.
Wasn't Mark 'The Bird' Fidrych killed under a truck? Thanks for the good times, Bird.

Be careful out there...
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:08 PM   #36
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So why didnt anybody say "the new axles just aren't that heavy you can lift them youself without too much trouble?" The drums etc are not on yet, so the axles were relatively light and relatively simple to work with.

Given that, and given the concerns expressed here, I hand lifted them and put the bolts through. Then I used my SUV jack to apply some weight so the rear end swung up like it would on the ground. Once it's all together and on the ground I will loosen and retorque the axle-to-frame bolts in case anything wants to settle into place.

Now... With the trailer still on jackstands & blocks etc, the shocks, fully extended, don't quite make it the length between their shock mounts. I assume under load the shock mount on the axle will move closer to the shock mount on the frame and then the shocks will go on ok? Is that right?
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:16 PM   #37
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Now... With the trailer still on jackstands & blocks etc, the shocks, fully extended, don't quite make it the length between their shock mounts. I assume under load the shock mount on the axle will move closer to the shock mount on the frame and then the shocks will go on ok? Is that right?
Install the shocks when there is a load on the axle.

The cause is the 35 degree starting angle.

It will settle into place all by itself, in time.

No cause to worry.

Andy
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:20 PM   #38
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:00 PM   #39
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I need to change the aerator on the sink in my Airstream. Getting the old one off is easy. To put the new one on, I'm going to jack up the trailer. Then while standing outside, I'm going to reach in through the window and hold the new aerator under the faucet. Then I'll have my wife lower the jacks little at a time until the faucet hits the aerator and then I'll just screw it on! Seems easier than the way everybody else does it.





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Old 04-14-2009, 04:07 PM   #40
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Hi Vlamica, yes: WebForm1

I got a bunch of Georgia pollen gunk all in the red grease on the spindles, so I will have to clean those and regrease them. Andy included a can of that grease, thanks!

Next question: There are two "LEFT" electric brakes and two "RIGHT" electric brakes. I assume both lefts go on the "driver's/road side" and both rights go on "passenger/curb side"? (rather than when facing the wheel well having a LEFT on my left and a RIGHT on my right)
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