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Old 12-29-2010, 07:12 PM   #21
2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Columbia , South Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 29

So, in case you come to this in your search of the archives, here's an update. Drilling the holes was really pretty much a non-event. But, there is some information that may be useful.

In my case, I used a #10 Dexter axle. The tube on this one is smaller than the cutout on my 1968 Overlander. There is a little less than 1/4" gap. Other folks mention widening the cutout. I think that in these cases, they may have been using a #11.

Having been forewarned about the dangers of hanging up a 5/8" bit, I eased up on the juice as soon as I could see daylight through the hole. I also kept enough pressure on the bit to keep the revs down. So, when (notice I didn't say IF) the bit hung up, it was no problem. Just back up and ease in again at a sane speed. This worked even on the holes that partly overlapped an existing hole.

I did use the bur on one hole. But, the tiny slivers of metal that it produces are a real hassle. Otherwise, it's a nice alternative.

I also did check alignment BEFORE drilling. I was delighted to see that it was perfect with the first axle pressed against the rear side of the cutouts.

In summary, I had to drill two holes on each side. The only tricky bit was that one set overlapped existing holes.

BTW--when talking to an engineer at Dexter, I was told that it might be possible to get a blind (no holes) bracket from the factory. But, I expect it's at the discretion of whoever you ask. I basically forgot to ask when I ordered mine .

Also, be advised that if you use your frame holes as a guide for drilling into a blind Dexter axle bracket, one of the holes will be obstructed by the wheel. For this reason, I think it's actually easier to drill into the frame flange. Keep in mind that the flange is added onto the actual frame. So, I don't foresee a significant change in the structural properties.

I will be posting additional information on 16 inch wheels, LT tires, and other provocative notions in a separate thread. I will put a link here if I can remember.

Thanks again to everyone who answered my question.

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Old 12-31-2010, 01:08 PM   #22
4 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Vintage Kin Owner
Northern VT , Vermont
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 360
Replaced my X with a dexter #11. Only praise for the product, company & dealer. The reciever slot on the side of the trailer mounting plate had to be cut an additional 1/8, new X was larger. Soft steel, easy job with a recp saw. All 4 mounting holes did not line up. To insure NOT boring partially into an existing holes in the frame plate I did remove the brake backing plates from the new X. With them out of the way no problem. X jacked into place, bored 1/4" guide holes, 5/8" bolt holes. Both plates are soft steel. Sharp bits, 1/2 drive rechargable drill, hot knife thru butter. Just be carefull about pinching the elec. brake wires in the backing plates when you reinstall, yep I did it!
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:54 PM   #23
2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Columbia , South Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 29
Link to thread on conversion to axles, 16" wheels and LT tires

As promised:
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