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Tin Hut · 08-18-2003, 07:49 AM

Just bought a '67 24' Tradewind. Must tow it from VA to Texas in a few weeks. Wheels packed 2 1/2 years (3,000 miles) ago. Should I have them repacked? Also, how do I tell if I need a new axle (this is a dual axle). Any advice on a checklist I should go thru before towing home would be appreciated. Tow vehicle is '97 Sub. I need to buy the ball, already has factory tow pack. Still need to get the controller and connector stuff. Thanks all.

Inland RV Center, In · 08-18-2003, 09:56 AM

There is an article on our web site inlandrv.com that tells you how to check out your axles.

Click on "articles."

Click on "Dura-torque axles."

Andy

uwe · 08-18-2003, 02:19 PM

For the tow home, you might want to check the tires, and while at it, check the bearings and brakes.
You can tow with marginal axles, if you drive gently, but do follow Andy's advice on his website.
If you need to buy a brake controller, consider the Prodigy by Tekonsha. It will be my next purchase. I have a Voyager now, but it's rough and jerky.
I also strongy recommend a weight distributing hitch for your Airstream/Suburban combination. Once properly adjusted, the difference in feel and towing safety is mind boggling. There are many posts on hitches already - just check the forum.
Good luck with your "new" Airstream.

**Action** · 08-18-2003, 10:32 PM

repack the wheel bearings. If nothing else you get the chance to look at the brakes and shocks and confirm there will be no issues. Cause it's gotta be way better to do it there than somewhere on I-40.

Also check out the lights. It would be a real bummer to step on the brakes and the guy behind you rear ends your baby cause both .99 lights were burned out. Yeah it's his fault. But who wants that grief?

Other items would be tire pressure at or near max on cold tires. And check the tires for cracks in side wall or tread. Your call on that. Wisdom suggests replacing them prior to a trip. Getting a spare could help too. Make sure all doors, windows and vents are shut and locked if possible. Gas is turned off. Step is retracted and rock shield on the front is down and latched.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

JimC · 08-19-2003, 08:47 AM

Do check the wheel inner bearing and greese seals. I bought a 67 tradewind in Texas and had it towed to Colorado. The previous owner had packed the outer bearings, but not replaced the inner seals. Two brake drums were full of greese. This wasn't a problem because the electrical connection to the brakes didn't work -- no brakes. It got here and I had to clean up the mess.

overlander64 · 08-19-2003, 03:07 PM

Greetings!

Quote:

Wheels packed 2 1/2 years (3,000 miles) ago. Should I have them repacked?

With the distance that you intend to tow your new acquisition, I would definitely recommend servicing the wheel bearings which will also give you the opportunity to assess the condition of the brakes and drums. On a trip the distance of the one that you are approaching, it is a must (IMHO) to have the brakes and bearings in top condition. The Suburban is a capable tow vehicle, but it will experience stopping difficulties (even with a Tradewind) if the trailer brakes aren't fully functional.

Quote:

I need to buy the ball, already has factory tow pack.

If it hasn't been included with the trailer that you are purchasing, you may find that you need a bit more than just the ball. Yes, you will need a new 2" coupler ball (assuming that a previous owner hasn't replaced the original Marvel 2" coupler) with a rating of at least 20% more than the estimated maximum loaded weight of your trailer (it may take some searching to find a properly rated 2" ball as most of the "discount" stores in my area carry 2" balls with a rating of less than 3,000 pounds - - I purchased my 2" ball for the Overlander from Ace Fogdall RV in Cedar Falls, Iowa). Depending upon whether your Suburban is two or four-wheel drive, you will also likely need a dropped draw bar to accommodate the proper hitch height for your trailer as well as a weight distributing hitch head and weight distribution bars. Sway control is an optional part of the setup, but one that I highly recommend if for no other reason than as a supplemental insurance policy - - I use Reese Dual Cam sway control with Reese Strait-Line hitches on both my '64 Overlander and '78 Minuet regardless of which tow vehicle that I am utilizing.

Quote:

Still need to get the controller and connector stuff.

As an insurance policy, you will also want to have available both the trailer and tow vehicle Bargman connectors. Corrossion is a potential problems at both ends, and in addtion if the trailer hasn't had its connector rewired to the modern standard it will be a near necessity before towing it home. The color codes and functions of the wires as used by Airstream in 1967 can be found in the link below:

Airstream Bargman Plug Wiring Information 1966-1981

The current standard that the plug on your Suburban is likely wired to can be found at the link below:

Bargman Plug Current Industry Standard Wiring Information

So far as brake controllers are concerned, there is a tremendous amount of dialogue on this subject if you do a search for brake controllers. Everyone has a favorite, and mine is one that is likely to be out of production soon - - it is the Hayes-Lemmerz XPC with remote control - - can be found at: Energize XPC Brake Control with Manual Remote.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin

Tin Hut · 08-20-2003, 06:28 PM

Thanks all for the great advice. Also, I need a replacement door that fits the '67 Tradewind. If you are aware of any please let me know. Thank you. Jim

dlorahcof · 08-21-2003, 09:27 AM

Congratulations on your new baby.
Just a note on the hitch ball.
If you can't find a 2" rated at what you want, try a Tractor Supply
because they have many that are rated to tow equipment.
If you don't have a TS in your area, a local ag dealer or farm supply may have one.
Good Luck.
cof

Tin Hut · 08-21-2003, 05:33 PM

Thanks for the advice. The seller tells me the hitch is about 16.5". My Suburban slot for my hitch is at 18" Is that a concern? Are there adjustable or gooseneck slide in balls that one can get. Thanks.

Inland RV Center, In · 08-21-2003, 05:58 PM

16 1/2 inches for a 67 would suggest bad axles.

A new 67 was 19 inches.

Andy

Ultradog · 08-21-2003, 07:08 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by overlander64
[B]Greetings!

As an insurance policy, you will also want to have available both the trailer and tow vehicle Bargman connectors. Corrossion is a potential problems at both ends, and in addtion if the trailer hasn't had its connector rewired to the modern standard it will be a near necessity before towing it home. The color codes and functions of the wires as used by Airstream in 1967 can be found in the link below:

Good advice OL64.
When I brought my AS home someone had already installed the new style Plug.
So I just plugged it in to my prewired Chevy.
When I stepped on the brakes the clearance lights came on.
And there were only left blinkers. No Right.
Only had about 40 miles to get it home from where I bought it so I went anyway. Didn't even have a brake controller in the pickup yet.
A few days later I took a better look at the lights etc. and found there was a considerable amount of corrosion in the connections on the new plug. Someone had wired it according to the color coding diagram on the plug but that was NOT correct for an Airstream.
I spent some quality time with wire strippers, screwdrivers, my ohmmeter, the owners manual and a new plug.
Now everything works as it should.
jfsjr, my Chevy has a wiring diagram molded right on to the little snap cover on the plug-in (OEM trailer tow package). Never noticed it was there till I got down there with the ohmmeter test leads. Made the job easy.
P.S. Welcome to the Club. I've had mine only about 2 1/2 months now.
Jerry

overlander64 · 08-21-2003, 07:10 PM

Greetings jfsjr!

Nearly every 2500 Series Suburban that I have encountered requires what is called a "dropped-drawbar" - - Reese (as well as the other major manufacturers) make these drawbars in a number of different drops (also can be used to raise the hitch height above the receiver if necessary) to accommodate a variety of tow vehicle configurations. My '99 K2500 Suburban requires the deepest drop available to safely tow my '64 Overlander - - and even with the deepest drop available, it is still about an inch too high for my '78 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre (it needs a new axle which will be installed before next season).

You can see the selection of drop bars for Reese hitches at:
Reese Dropped Draw Bars

Good luck with your project!

Kevin