My very own axle thread!

[cojer]

i'm going with top on this one. it ain't rocket surgery. i was a little apprehensive about changing out my axle too, but talking with colin on the phone helped alot. i ordered my axle from him, it came, and i put it on, pretty much that simple. yeah you have to drill a few holes, it's not that big of a deal. the hardest part for me was wrasslin' the axles around and breaking loose the old nuts and bolts but that's where my special impact wrench came in.

[NevadaGeo]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

With your serial number information, that told us your Airstream had 12" brakes when manufactured.

However, ten inch brakes are cheaper than twelve inch brakes.

Andy

Mr Top, if you didn't want the parts specified by your serial number, maybe you should specify that you were specifying outside of the trailer manufacturer's specification.

[Lance M]

Originally Posted by NevadaGeo

Mr Top, if you didn't want the parts specified by your serial number, maybe you should specify that you were specifying outside of the trailer manufacturer's specification.

[clancy_boy]

Originally Posted by cojer

<SNIP> breaking loose the old nuts and bolts but that's where my special impact wrench came in.

Hey, I have that model impact wrench, I think mine is a left foot model....

[Lance M]

If you read a few posts up I was a tad perplexed as to how I was going to mount the shocks to the new axles. What I FAILED to do was listen to Colin and get the Monroe shocks PN 555003. These Monroe shocks come with a mount stud kit. I listened to the ramblings of some people about how the Monroe shocks were not correct..blah blah blah and only the Gabriel shock manufactured to Airstream's specifications would work properly and more blah blah blah.
So I bought four Airstream shocks made by Gabriel from Out of Doors Mart. They did not come with any mounting hardware. So, I ground the weld down on the shock mounting stud on the old axle and removed them from the attachment bracket. This morning I went to Fastenal and got four 1/2"-13x1 1/4" bolts, nuts and washers. I then welded the 1/2" bolt on the stud. I bolted the stud to the shock and installed it on the trailer. Piece of cake! Here are some pics.

[clancy_boy]

Great work - get some lock nuts or at least put a lock washer on there with the nuts.

[lahrfarm]

Top, axles and shock mounts look great! I'm sure your 10" brakes and TV brake spec's will far out-perform the 12" brakes and the 1972 car that would have towed your AS, not to mention the 2011 brake controller is light years ahead. Good looking work on the AS!

[lahrfarm]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Manufacturers stopping power specs on top grade electric brakes are;

10 inch 3500 pounds per axle.

12 inch 6200 pounds per axle.

That is a huge difference of 176 percent.

But again, thats when the brakes are perfectly and properly adjusted, which seldom happens.

In the absence of proper adjustment, the stopping power can drop as much as 50 percent, and sometimes even more, according to the manufacturers, who know far more than the general public, about their products.

At 50 percent, 10 inch brakes can then properly stop 1750 pounds per axle, and 12 inch brakes can properly stop 3100 pounds per axle.

Perhaps the new style "self adjusting" electric brakes will become extremely popular, even though they cost more money.

Andy 11.3x

Where did you get these numbers? They dont really sound like "brake stoping power" numbers. They sound sound more like GVW per axle numbers. I've never heard of anything being engineered to do the minimum with no safety designed in. What I am saying is a 3500# axle doesnt fail at 3501#, so why would they design the brakes to do just that. If they know we wont adjust them, and they put in wrighting,
"At 50 percent, 10 inch brakes can then properly stop 1750 pounds per axle, and 12 inch brakes can properly stop 3100 pounds per axle", then they would get sued everytime one failed.

[Trex]

Originally Posted by Top

True that I've said I'm not keeping a budget. That doesn't mean I'm going to waste money on things I believe are not necessary.

TOP, (Trainer of Personnel), Nice job so far... keep the photos coming when you install that 2nd axle. My axles should be here within 2 weeks, or so.... It seems axle Threads are the most heated and interesting. The only time I ever had a thread comment removed, was on an "Axle Thread;0 I posted an RV sign that had the SH** word in it. I was told that was bad.... but its okay to post Burning Man photos?

[Lance M]

Clancy Boy,
Thanks for the suggestion. The original shocks did not have any lock washers. They were rusted on! I'm guessing you are talking about where my shop built stud attaches to the shock mount plate on the axle. I have been considering using some liquid thread locker. There isn't really enough room for a split washer. The jam nut on the back side is torqued down to the most I could grunt with a combo wrench.

Lahrfarm,
Thanks for the compliment! I have no doubt that the 10" brakes are more than adequate. Making an upgrade to 12" brakes because you know that you aren't going to adjust them would just be negligence. If you have a marginal tow vehicle (like a 1972 Pontiac Grand Safari wagon) and you plan on towing through mountainous terrain frequently and you are very concerned about brake fade, I would get disc brakes. In the end it doesn't matter what brakes someone gets. They all must be properly maintained and adjusted.

Rex my man,
Both axles are installed! The only thing left is put on the tires, hook up the wires to the brakes after I get the center section of the belly pan installed. Installing these axles has been the easiest thing of my resto so far. I hope it goes well for you. If you need any assistance, don't hesitate to call Colin. He's very very helpful. I just can't say enough about how awesome he is.
Yes I remember the SH*&&%*s full! That was so funny. It was very fitting for how our conversation was going. In my mind, I think axles are so controversial here because one supplier had an "exclusive" deal with a manufacturer that had most of the original brackets. This supplier doesn't anymore because that company quit making rubber torsion axles. Now it seems that some people here are being fed stories to explain the difference in price for the axles he sells versus Dexter or other axle suppliers. One such story is the 10" vs 12" brake story. Just take a look at post #1. If the $430 quote is changed to a larger axle "down rated" to #3,500 with 12" brakes the price will increase about $100. So, now we're looking at $530 vs $750. That is still a large difference. Now look at the shipping. Big difference there as well. One of the other reasons axle threads are so heated is people who have paid $750 for axles, want to know in their mind they made a good decision. People who paid $430 for an axle want to know in their mind they have made the right decision. So, you get the "Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge" arguments of the rubber torsion axles. All the while someone is posting pictures of "Burning Man" that we should be looking at!

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Manufacturers stopping power specs on top grade electric brakes are;

10 inch 3500 pounds per axle.

12 inch 6200 pounds per axle.

That is a huge difference of 176 percent.

Another way to look at it . The 10" are really 10 x 2 1/4", the 12" are 12 x 2". That's less then 7% difference in pad area. I'm sure the materials are more then 7% better now.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by Rex Crabtree

It seems axle Threads are the most heated and interesting. The only time I ever had a thread comment removed, was on an "Axle Thread

Um, did you buy tires yet...?

[Trex]

Originally Posted by Aage

Um, did you buy tires yet...?

Aage, are you asking me or TOP. If you're asking me....my tires are 10 years old and I should replace them when I mount my new axles.... and not drive on them until then.

TOP, somehow I was thinking you only had one axle mounted, when I posted here last time...Looking like a fool again. You make it look easy TOP, hopefully my axles will mount a easy as your's. They should be here within the next two weeks...or so.

In our free market society I think it is a "Good Thing" that we all have choices in the type of axles we buy for our airstreams. And hopefully, the information sharing that's happening on this thread and other Threads, will keep the price down, and/or buyers will purchase the right product for them, based on there skill level. So, I think there is room for all of the axle dealers out there, and room for more in the future. God bless America and our Free Market!

[Trex]

Originally Posted by Top

All the while someone is posting pictures of "Burning Man" that we should be looking at!

Don't get me wrong, I like the idea that we can post "Burning Man" photos...I like nude photos of real people. But, if someone is going to be offended by the Sh** word, then they may be offended by nude photos of real people camping. That is all I'm saying, people have the "Offended Germ" and it's spreading like wildfire... check out the following column.

The "I'm offended" germ seems to have infected everyone

[Lance M]

Originally Posted by Rex Crabtree

Don't get me wrong, I like the idea that we can post "Burning Man" photos...I like nude photos of real people. But, if someone is going to be offended by the Sh** word, then they may be offended by nude photos of real people camping. That is all I'm saying, people have the "Offended Germ" and it's spreading like wildfire... check out the following column.

The "I'm offended" germ seems to have infected everyone

Are you trying to offend me?

Just kidding! I'm not easily offended. I have thick skin and call 'em as I see 'em

[Globie64]

All this information is great to have- I'm wondering how to decide what kind of axle to specify, or if it really matters between manufacturers. It seems pretty straight forward to install, what about alignment once the thing is back together?

[Lance M]

For alignment, measure between each hub and the center of the tongue jack. They should be within 1/8" If not adjustment is necessary.

[Globie64]

ok, easy enough. thanks

[Inland RV Center, In]

Alignment of an axle is not necesaary when the trailer is a 1968 and newer.

The bolt holes take care of that for you.

From 1967 and older, you measure from the "CENTER" of the jack post, to the lower forward corner of the axle mounting bracket.

That dimension must be exactly the same.

By actual measurement, 1/8 of an inch off will make a 31 foot trailer, tow dog leg by 3 inches. 1/4 inch will make it tow dog leg 6 inches.

Towing a trailer dog leg, causes huge wear on tires, plus making the trailer tow with a large degree of instability.

I know, I had one with a 3/8 inch difference. It towed dog leg 9 inches.

The difference can be realigned back into the axles, if the shop knows how.

Andy

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Globie64

All this information is great to have- I'm wondering how to decide what kind of axle to specify, or if it really matters between manufacturers. It seems pretty straight forward to install, what about alignment once the thing is back together?

Originally Posted by Top

For alignment, measure between each hub and the center of the tongue jack. They should be within 1/8" If not adjustment is necessary.

Originally Posted by Globie64

ok, easy enough. thanks

For your little Globetrotter, precise alignment isn't necessary, since you only have the one axle. Your 1/8" alignment will be "close enough". At worst, the trailer will track maybe an inch out of straight, and won't wear the tires funny, since you only have one per side, and they won't be working against each other.