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pteck · 12-09-2018, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toornburg

I was unable to complete the lift of my 2018 28’ RB. The rear pan would not allow the rear axel to drop due to its very nicely done form fitting by AS. Front was a breeze. I have seen a number of references here for dropping and or modifying the pan or lift blocks.

I restored it back to original config. Did I abandon too soon? Is there a way someone has found to be successful on the trailer model without going medieval on it?

So close! The pan is sheet metal. The sheet metal is riveted wholly under the frame. Was the edges of the sheet metal just catching the axle bracket preventing it from dropping nicely?

The sheet metal is pretty thin and easy to manipulate even by hand. A few choice slits would probably do the trick, allowing the axle to drop without distorting it in an uncontrolled fashion. Then bend the sheet metal back after the lift bracket is install.

56ovalwindow · 12-09-2018, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steamy1

Congratulations on getting it done!

I have owned a kit for three years now and still have not found the confidence to do it myself, even though I have jacks, impact wrench etc., and have not found someone nearby that I would trust to do it.

I actually started to go for it when I removed the front wheels to clean and re-pack the bearings, but I could not break the LP gas fitting from the junction. I started to twist the tubing and decided to stop before I did any damage.

I spoke to Airstream of Utah, and they said they could do it, so that may be the default if I can't move it along myself.

It really is not that complicated; I installed the kit on our 19' Bambi myself but hesitant to do the double axle for some reason.

. Get in touch with me. I shall lift our trailer in the early spring. You are more than welcome to watch and hopefully gain the confidence to do it yourself. We are located in Bountiful.

Toornburg · 12-09-2018, 01:17 PM

Thought about that but the next issue is making room for the block. Seems the 28’ RB is an anomaly. Sure would like it lifted.

StuartsDad · 12-09-2018, 02:24 PM

Toornburg, don't give up yet. I installed the lift kit on my 28RB in October and modifying the front two corners of the pan is fairly easy and does not require dropping the pan. There is enough room between the pan sheet metal and the tanks inside to taper the front corners. Drill out the rivets of the corner, bend the overlap back, cut 1" off the corner, bend overlap back, re-rivet. As stated by someone else, this metal is pretty thin and easy to work with. Attached (hopefully) is a very rough sketch of what I did. Well worth the extra time this took. If more details needed, don't hesitate to reach out.

GotTaGo · 12-09-2018, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toornburg

I was unable to complete the lift of my 2018 28’ RB. The rear pan would not allow the rear axel to drop due to its very nicely done form fitting by AS. Front was a breeze. I have seen a number of references here for dropping and or modifying the pan or lift blocks.

I restored it back to original config. Did I abandon too soon? Is there a way someone has found to be successful on the trailer model without going medieval on it?

My 2006 28’ International was catching on both axles with the tanks. Turned out to be the pan covers over the tanks.

I took a grinder with a metal cutting blade and removed the corners of each obstructing tank pan to allow the axle to drop. The tanks themselves have about 2” of gap with insulation to the pans so low risk of cutting into the tank.

The pans are pretty thin metal or composite material, cut easily and bent out of the way. After the lifts and axles were reinstalled, I fabricated new corner covers and riveted them in.

The bolt heads in the lifts can be a challenge to get to in order to tighten the bolt nuts. I used a crows foot on the heads to hold them, but if I had to do it again, I’d have tabs welded onto the heads of the bolts.

**GCinSC2** · 12-09-2018, 03:18 PM

Agreed access to bolts can be challenging. I used as required a 15/16 shorty or a std length 15/16 with a taped on extension handle to position wrench to hold fastener while tightening.

Al and Missy · 12-09-2018, 03:35 PM

My black tank was right up against the wall of the tank pan at the axle bracket. I'm glad I dropped the pan (had to drop the axle to do it) and modified it off the trailer.

Al

Toornburg · 12-09-2018, 04:59 PM

I did not know that! I will use your diagram and go back in for a second try.

Toornburg · 12-09-2018, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StuartsDad

Toornburg, don't give up yet. I installed the lift kit on my 28RB in October and modifying the front two corners of the pan is fairly easy and does not require dropping the pan. There is enough room between the pan sheet metal and the tanks inside to taper the front corners. Drill out the rivets of the corner, bend the overlap back, cut 1" off the corner, bend overlap back, re-rivet. As stated by someone else, this metal is pretty thin and easy to work with. Attached (hopefully) is a very rough sketch of what I did. Well worth the extra time this took. If more details needed, don't hesitate to reach out.

I did not know that! Will use your diagram and go back in for a second try.

Toornburg · 12-09-2018, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GotTaGo

My 2006 28’ International was catching on both axles with the tanks. Turned out to be the pan covers over the tanks.

I took a grinder with a metal cutting blade and removed the corners of each obstructing tank pan to allow the axle to drop. The tanks themselves have about 2” of gap with insulation to the pans so low risk of cutting into the tank.

The pans are pretty thin metal or composite material, cut easily and bent out of the way. After the lifts and axles were reinstalled, I fabricated new corner covers and riveted them in.

The bolt heads in the lifts can be a challenge to get to in order to tighten the bolt nuts. I used a crows foot on the heads to hold them, but if I had to do it again, I’d have tabs welded onto the heads of the bolts.

I will hold that for plan B. I am torn between bending and riveting or cutting and riveting. Another poster said he dropped the pan and modified it. Sounds like success with different approaches. Very heartening!

Brentsdeal · 12-09-2018, 10:15 PM

I lifted my 25 foot Eddie Bauer and makes a big improvement

jrkott · 12-09-2018, 10:48 PM

Anybody experienced how Airstream’s Warranty department views a Dexter lift kit while a unit is still in the warranty period?

kb7our · 12-10-2018, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toornburg

I will hold that for plan B. I am torn between bending and riveting or cutting and riveting. Another poster said he dropped the pan and modified it. Sounds like success with different approaches. Very heartening!

Same situation here. Also contemplating best approach.

Wrjch · 12-10-2018, 11:27 AM

I am very interested in hearing from anyone who has raised a triple axel and how it worked out, any special problems encountered etc.

eganwh · 12-12-2018, 08:22 PM

Al,

Nice work on the lift. I really like how the longer floorplans look post lift, not to mention the reduced drag benefit. Your 30' looks great. I am really impressed that you undertook this endeavor outside. Nothing like a quick change in the weather to put some added pressure on finishing up.

I pulled the street side wheels and hubs off my 27FB today to inspect the brakes. After looking the axle mounts over, I think I am going to give this mod a try myself. I've got the luxury of completing the work in my shop, so that should allow me to slow down if I get frustrated or phone a friend if needed.

Thanks to you and others for posting your up "lifting" experiences.

Reno Classic · 08-14-2019, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GotTaGo

My 2006 28’ International was catching on both axles with the tanks. Turned out to be the pan covers over the tanks.

I took a grinder with a metal cutting blade and removed the corners of each obstructing tank pan to allow the axle to drop. The tanks themselves have about 2” of gap with insulation to the pans so low risk of cutting into the tank.

The pans are pretty thin metal or composite material, cut easily and bent out of the way. After the lifts and axles were reinstalled, I fabricated new corner covers and riveted them in.

The bolt heads in the lifts can be a challenge to get to in order to tighten the bolt nuts. I used a crows foot on the heads to hold them, but if I had to do it again, I’d have tabs welded onto the heads of the bolts.

I'm getting ready to do the lift on my 2006 30' Classic. I've read all the forums and watched the videos. Any advice from GotTaGo, Al and Missy, GCinSC2, Stuarts Dad and others who have done this modification? The lift looks straight-forward enough and I anticipate the limited access for the bolts but dropping or modifying the holding tank pans has me stumped as to the best approach. Any additional advice or photo's are greatly appreciated. If given the chance what would you do differently if you had to do it again?

This forum has been such a great resource, thank you all for your advice and opinions.

**GCinSC2** · 08-14-2019, 11:50 AM

Mark the position of the axle mounting flange UP onto the frame from the edge of the flange. Use that to position new axles.

One axle at a time.

Reaching some fasteners may require unique approaches. I made an extension handle just to put wrench onto heads and hold turned from outside.

15/16” shorty may also be a go to also.

Have bandaids handy.

Safety first.

Gary

Reno Classic · 08-14-2019, 02:45 PM

Thanks Gary. I saw your post from April 2016 when you did the lift for SilverEagle6. I believe my 2006 Classic is identical to what you ran into there. Looks like you removed bolts on all four sides of the pan and lowered it down which is what I anticipate with mine. Can you explain exactly how you trimmed these corners? I saw the drawing posted by StuartsDad where he cut the corners 1" in and tapered about 6" back. I'm assuming after removing the pan you then installed the spacer and axle and then reinstalled the pan. I know the tanks were empty but did you have to add temporary support while the pan was out or did the tanks hang from the plumbing without issue?

Your insight is most helpful, thank you.

**GCinSC2** · 08-14-2019, 03:36 PM

Good news the pan does not support the tanks. We never dropped a tank.

Trimming, IIRC I used a nibbler cause it was small and agile. But frankly that was a few years ago so details I posted then are the freshest.

My driveway has a downhill slope we put the trailer right where the flat ended and the downhill slope started and a good portion of the overhang was much lower and gave us accidentally better access to the rear work area.

Gary

Reno Classic · 08-14-2019, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Good news the pan does not support the tanks. We never dropped a tank.

That's really good news considering the short period of time the pan will be removed.

I have the 15/16 stubby on order and found this vintage Snap-On crowfoot in the bottom of my toolbox. It is thin and has a 3/8" inlet on the horizontal and vertical edge. I hope it functions like your wrench extension where I can insert it straight-on with a long 3/8 extension.

Again, thanks for your help.