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Old 08-24-2019, 11:07 AM   #81
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So does putting in the lift affect the hitch height?
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Old 08-24-2019, 11:08 AM   #82
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All right success with only one bandaid. Pretty good.

I do remember now that you posted the street side rear lift bracket did have to get trimmed via disc grinder. We didn’t remove pan, tank or head fortunately cause John n Jeannie were using trailer.

For trying to position axle back into scribe marks IIRC I used ratchet strap to pull to marks.

Bandaids expletives BFH sounds like what a DIY’er should expect for this project.

Just suggesting occasionally looking at install bolts to make sure all’s well after some mileage.

Well done.

Gary
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Old 08-24-2019, 11:51 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
Just suggesting occasionally looking at install bolts to make sure all’s well after some mileage.

Well done.
Thanks Gary, your posts and comments were very helpful. I marked all fasteners with white marking paint but will have to re-mark after the alignment.

-Gary-
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Old 08-24-2019, 12:02 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by farafield View Post
So does putting in the lift affect the hitch height?
Yes, Since I know the trailer is up 3" I'll have to move the ball 3" higher as well to maintain level towing. I'm finishing up with that today and will be going out for a test drive.

My hitch is a Husky and I need to determine if I should go up two holes or three. The hole spacing is on 1 1/4" centers so it's either going to be too high or not high enough depending on which hole I use.

Your hitch may be different. Picture is a before shot.
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Old 08-24-2019, 12:17 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Reno Classic View Post
Yes, Since I know the trailer is up 3" I'll have to move the ball 3" higher as well to maintain level towing. I'm finishing up with that today and will be going out for a test drive.

My hitch is a Husky and I need to determine if I should go up two holes or three. The hole spacing is on 1 1/4" centers so it's either going to be too high or not high enough depending on which hole I use.

Your hitch may be different. Picture is a before shot.
Great - thanks!
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Old 08-24-2019, 12:20 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
I think an alignment shop can adjust only camber and maybe toe-in, by bending the axle tube. If there is skew between the left and right end of the axles I doubt they can do anything other than drop the axle and slot the mounting holes. Then there is the potential for road shock to throw the alignment out.

Nice post and an addition to the corporate knowledge on lift kit installs. I wish I had thought to move the toilet.

Al
Al, Thanks for the positive feedback. Good point about what the alignment guy can do. I definitely don't want him re-drilling or enlarging holes. I'm going to pull the wheels and put a straight edge along the hubs and measure distance to frame and check the horizontal plane between the two hubs. Since the top axle mounting plates were slotted I tried as best I could to center the axle with equal space on both sides. I'm wondering if I should push them to one side so the axle is flush with the spacer on one side and may have a 1/4" space on the far side. Right now I eyeballed about an 1/8" space to keep them centered. Also, I don't know the effect of the two vertical slots the spacer is bolted to. I tried to line them up as best I could with the original washers but really don't know what is happening if I slide the spacer up or down in those vertical slots.

Another question I've always had is should the axles be aligned in a straight line with zero toe-in or should there be a little tow-in on the front? I've been told it should be both ways by different people.

I appreciate all your posts. I've learned a lot from you over the years, thank you.

-Gary-
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Old 08-24-2019, 01:20 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by Reno Classic View Post
Also, I don't know the effect of the two vertical slots the spacer is bolted to. I tried to line them up as best I could with the original washers but really don't know what is happening if I slide the spacer up or down in those vertical slots.
I must be losing my mind today. My statement about the spacer bolted to vertical slots was in error as I now see they are horizontal slots. Or was there one horizontal and one vertical? Sorry about the confusion. (Old-timers disease)

-Gary-
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:37 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by Reno Classic View Post
Al, Thanks for the positive feedback. Good point about what the alignment guy can do. I definitely don't want him re-drilling or enlarging holes. I'm going to pull the wheels and put a straight edge along the hubs and measure distance to frame and check the horizontal plane between the two hubs. Since the top axle mounting plates were slotted I tried as best I could to center the axle with equal space on both sides. I'm wondering if I should push them to one side so the axle is flush with the spacer on one side and may have a 1/4" space on the far side. Right now I eyeballed about an 1/8" space to keep them centered. Also, I don't know the effect of the two vertical slots the spacer is bolted to. I tried to line them up as best I could with the original washers but really don't know what is happening if I slide the spacer up or down in those vertical slots.

Another question I've always had is should the axles be aligned in a straight line with zero toe-in or should there be a little tow-in on the front? I've been told it should be both ways by different people.

I appreciate all your posts. I've learned a lot from you over the years, thank you.

-Gary-
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reno Classic View Post
I must be losing my mind today. My statement about the spacer bolted to vertical slots was in error as I now see they are horizontal slots. Or was there one horizontal and one vertical? Sorry about the confusion. (Old-timers disease)

-Gary-
You are welcome. I learned a lot when I started to look for our first Airstream in 2014 and I continue to learn nearly every time I log on. I try to pay it forward when I can.

The axles can be ordered with or without camber, but I think toe is set to zero, and isn't adjustable. I think toe and caster are predominantly adjusted on steering axles. I think camber is adjusted by bending the axle tube. It would seem toe could be adjusted the same way but that would put a compound bend in the center rod. That's a lot of I thinks.

IIRC the axle has only vertical slots. This fixes the alignment as long as the holes in the frame bracket and the bracket itself are properly placed. The lift kit, again IIRC has one hole and one vertical slot on the side.

Al
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Old 08-30-2019, 11:06 PM   #89
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RENO CLASSIC, great install! I'm sure you were glad to get this one checked off the TO DO list. I know I was. The first time you pull through one of those previously questionable curb dips at a fuel or food stop with no more worries about dragging anything, you will be all smiles. The top, front corners of my pan were also butchered and covered up with duct tape from the factory. As with yours, it was nice to get that cleaned up.
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Old 08-31-2019, 03:06 PM   #90
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RENO CLASSIC, great install! I'm sure you were glad to get this one checked off the TO DO list.
Thanks StuartsDad, I appreciate the positive comments. And yes, glad to get this item checked off on the to-do list. I'm taking the rig in first thing Tuesday morning for the alignment and then will put the holding tank pan back on.

I called Airstream looking for the alignment specs and they were not helpful at all. They said my chassis was manufactured by Lippert Components and I should call them. When I talked to Lippert they said they couldn't help me because they make their own axles and I have Dexter. Couldn't get through on the phone with Dexter but found on their website the spec is + or - 1/16" from the king pin to the end of the spindle and within 1/8" on the axle centerline to centerline. I did find an excellent resource on the Lippert website showing how to measure for alignment on single, double and triple axles which made it much easier to estimate where I stood on alignment. Download the attached pdf, it was very informative for me.
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Old 09-08-2019, 09:54 AM   #91
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Final wrap up

A few loose ends... time to install the holding tank pan.

After a preliminary trial-fit I followed the drawing posted earlier by StuartsDad where I had to cut tapered corners on both sides of the pan. Working on the bench made this so much easier.

Aluminum corner patches installed with 3M VHB tape which held everything in place and acts as a seam sealant separating the aluminum from the galvanized steel. A few pop rivets installed to keep everything honest. It was still a tight fit installing the cover over the corners of the black tank so I once again removed the toilet to let the tank find its' own location. Buttoned everything back up and good to go.
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Old 09-08-2019, 09:57 AM   #92
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Time to hit the road.
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Old 09-08-2019, 10:26 AM   #93
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Reno Classic,

Rig looks real good, enjoy your efforts.

Gary
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