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Old 12-04-2018, 12:51 PM   #21
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Read my blog post. I don’t write this stuff for my health... Read section right before numbered steps. Easiest way to keep alinement is to find a fixed point under the trailer and use that to establish a measurement to reference.
Link below
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...lift-kit-2901/
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Old 12-04-2018, 02:25 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RivetED View Post
Thanks for the offer, I appreciate that.

I know this is not a hard job but you are right, I'm intimidated with the thought of dropping the axles and then reattaching them correctly (I've seen some messed up tires over the years from mis-aligned axles). I've read some good threads here about the process and Al and Missy's success just really got my attention.

If nothing else I'm going to order the kit and have it on hand for the right 'moment', or weekend!
First you get a s all square and with an awl you scribe a vertical line near each mount...install lift kit and align scribed lines...
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Old 12-04-2018, 04:39 PM   #23
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Al, as I recall when you helped me measure for my Dexter axles I could have order extra height on the spacer between axle brackets and the frame mounting flange. Stock was 1” and could have ordered a different dimension.
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Old 12-04-2018, 05:26 PM   #24
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ROSWELL , Georgia
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Lift kit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
This lift kit has been in my garage or trailer since before we headed out to the Blue Ridge in October and maybe since we headed out for International in July, don't remember. I finally got together with Charlie who did my axle and brake transplant and he met me at the storage facility this morning. We started about 9:30 and finished at 1:15. It would have been quicker but the vertical web and top flange on one of the brackets was interfering with the pan under the holding tanks. We thought we were going to have to modify the pan so we dropped it. Then we found the bracket was going to rub on the black tank. We figured out we could grind a quarter inch off of the web and top flange in the problem area. But we had already dropped the pan so we had to put it back. Charlie was a good sport. He didn't charge extra for my help. His truck is fully equipped for mobile service with a gasoline powered compressor and welder/generator. I brought my air over hydraulic jack (a lot easier than pumping a floor jack) and a couple jack stands.

Here's a before picture:

Attachment 329068

Here the wheels are off:

Attachment 329064

Here's Charlie working on the curbside front. The height difference is clearly visible:

Attachment 329065

Here's the finished product on the curbside:

Attachment 329067

Had to lower the stinger to keep everything level. I went down two holes which looks just about right. Good thing, it's the bottom hole.

Attachment 329066

I hope I don't drag her butt from now on, and the Propride bars are now over twice as far from the ground as they were.

Al
Remember that just before Salem,I installed the lift kit on my 23ft and it worked well.It got the rear end(sewer connections) off of the pavement.
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Old 12-04-2018, 05:52 PM   #25
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Question for the lifted AS owners. Did you notice any change in towing or stability?
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Old 12-04-2018, 06:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too tall View Post
Question for the lifted AS owners. Did you notice any change in towing or stability?
20000 miles stock towing and 20000 miles lifted towing and I have notice zero difference (other than not scraping) or problems.
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:06 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
Read my blog post. I don’t write this stuff for my health... Read section right before numbered steps. Easiest way to keep alinement is to find a fixed point under the trailer and use that to establish a measurement to reference.
Link below
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...lift-kit-2901/
While I understand the concept measuring to each wheel from the coupler to check alignment and of marking to preserve alignment, on my trailer there is no adjustment and there is no way it could be out more than about 1/16" unless the frame is bent. The axle is retained fore and aft on both sides by bolt holes. Maybe newer trailers have slots that would allow movement of one side relative to the other, but my trailer does not.

iRegarding OP's problem, If only one wheel is wearing on the inside, I'd bet that axle is bent from hitting a pothole. If the axle was misaligned I'd think there would be wear on both sides.

Might also be a loose bearing.

Al
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesSE View Post
Remember that just before Salem,I installed the lift kit on my 23ft and it worked well.It got the rear end(sewer connections) off of the pavement.
I had forgotten that!

Al
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Old 12-04-2018, 07:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorDave View Post
Al, as I recall when you helped me measure for my Dexter axles I could have order extra height on the spacer between axle brackets and the frame mounting flange. Stock was 1” and could have ordered a different dimension.
That's right. Dexter axles can be ordered with either a low or high mounting bracket. Airstream uses the low, at least on most trailers. The high bracket is only 3/4 taller.

Al
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Old 12-05-2018, 07:30 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
I am not aware that there are any provisions for alignment on Airstream trailers. If only one tire was wearing, I'm wondering if you hit a bad hole with that wheel and bent the axle. Wearing on the inside only sounds like negative camber to me. Negative camber tilts the top of the tire in putting more weight on the inside of the tire tread and less on the outside. This could be consistent with a hit from a pothole. Camber is adjusted at the axle factory by bending the axle tube. Some trailer shops may be able to do that.

Al
Any reputable Frame Shop can adjust the camber/ caster on trailers. We've had it done twice on 2 different SOBs, and I have seen write-up on AS's as well. It's an interesting process. Since there is no adjustment for camber or caster, the shop sets the trailer on a jig and uses hydraulic rams to bend the axles. Works quite well, and usually around $100 per axle. Harold Frame Shops in SE Michigan did the work for us.
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:02 AM   #31
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OP - Thanks for this post. All - I've had a lift kit ready to install since earlier this year. I've read all the threads I can find on process. Also viewed all the available videos. Not sure yet which process I'll use so figured I'd ask since this thread seems to reveal a lot of consolidated experience with installs. I figure it's best to attach stinger/tongue (ProPride) to vehicle when doing this - good call?
Also, is it necessary to lift both sides of trailer or can one side (either 1 or 2 axles on either side) be done first, then lower and raise other side and repeat? I have 2 Trailer Aids (tall version) I could use, a strong floor jack and 2 good jack stands, plus a quality (long) torque wrench and the other necessary tools. Just haven't figured out the best/safest/easiest "process" to use. Otherwise, I'm ready to roll!


Wade
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Old 12-05-2018, 11:08 AM   #32
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When I installed my lift, I found the easiest and safest method to elevate the trailer was to use ramps. I had 6" high auto repair ramps with a high enough weight rating, but same can easily be made out of 2x8's. I pulled the front wheels on to the ramps raising the rear wheels high enough to work underneath and reinstall wheels after blocks installed. Back off the ramps and place behind the rear wheels and back on to the ramps to work on the front axle. The trailer is secured to TV to prevent movement and firmly supported on it's own wheels. For extra insurance, you can still place jack stands under the rear jack points. This also frees up your floor jack to use under the axles.
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Old 12-07-2018, 04:10 PM   #33
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I just used the tongue jack in the front. It is rated for 5000# so I wasn't worried. I had an air over hydraulic jack so we used that at the lift points in the rear and put it on jack stands.

Al
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Old 12-09-2018, 06:47 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb7our View Post
OP - Thanks for this post. All - I've had a lift kit ready to install since earlier this year. I've read all the threads I can find on process. Also viewed all the available videos. Not sure yet which process I'll use so figured I'd ask since this thread seems to reveal a lot of consolidated experience with installs. I figure it's best to attach stinger/tongue (ProPride) to vehicle when doing this - good call?
Also, is it necessary to lift both sides of trailer or can one side (either 1 or 2 axles on either side) be done first, then lower and raise other side and repeat? I have 2 Trailer Aids (tall version) I could use, a strong floor jack and 2 good jack stands, plus a quality (long) torque wrench and the other necessary tools. Just haven't figured out the best/safest/easiest "process" to use. Otherwise, I'm ready to roll!


Wade
When I did mine..one axle at a time...backed the rear axle up on 3 level of blocks...and pulled the front axle wheels...and I had lots of room to loosen an end and drop the other end down...using a small bottle jack...be sure to scribe each end first thing for a reference....even a old fat man can do it....
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Old 12-09-2018, 10:36 AM   #35
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Has Any body raised a triple axel?

I have a 2011 34’ triple axel limited. Any good input as to the pros and cons of raising it? Thanks
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Old 12-09-2018, 10:59 AM   #36
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Good show Al and Missy. Enjoy the lift. It's absolutely liberating to know she won't drag anymore. Opens up a world of possibilities with the increased clearance. I rarely worry about approaching uneven transitions or going off the beaten path any longer.

I also paired my axle lift with slightly upsized tires. From stock 225/70/15s to 235/75/15s. .6" taller in diameter, lifting the trailer an additional 3/10ths of an inch.
I wanted larger tires to give her just a tad more lift/gentle ride/braking traction/and floatation in uneven terrain.

After a couple years, loving it. It much better matches the clearance of my tow vehicle.

Wrjch, it's been all pros! Seriously. I have not noticed a perceptible con yet, even though I was expecting some. There's advantages in dumping, ease of use with compartments not having to bend way over. And more...

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Old 12-09-2018, 11:11 AM   #37
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I was unable to complete the lift of my 2018 28’ RB. The rear pan would not allow the rear axel to drop due to its very nicely done form fitting by AS. Front was a breeze. I have seen a number of references here for dropping and or modifying the pan or lift blocks.

I restored it back to original config. Did I abandon too soon? Is there a way someone has found to be successful on the trailer model without going medieval on it?
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:22 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too tall View Post
Question for the lifted AS owners. Did you notice any change in towing or stability?
.......yes...it is much better....no dragging and the bottom step is 6” off the ground ..just right....
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:25 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Toornburg View Post
I was unable to complete the lift of my 2018 28’ RB. The rear pan would not allow the rear axel to drop due to its very nicely done form fitting by AS. Front was a breeze. I have seen a number of references here for dropping and or modifying the pan or lift blocks.

I restored it back to original config. Did I abandon too soon? Is there a way someone has found to be successful on the trailer model without going medieval on it?
......May 31’ Classic was easy...a couple bolts had to have a tab welded on as a wrench wouldnt fit.....your rear pan must not go straight down?...post some pictures
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:51 AM   #40
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This post is relevant to the subject, but I need to tell the story first. When I bought my '77 Excella 500 (rear twins and center bath) I wasn't planning on it going on the road again. I rebuilt the interior with a cabin feel and planned on using it to live in while building a real cabin. Then "life happened" and I moved to Florida from Arkansas, bringing the Airstream with me. TRUST ME, pulling a heavy camper with worn out torsion axles and no brake system is not for the faint of heart! Thankfully, I have plenty of truck for the job. Since then we have had new, heavier torsion axles with electric brakes installed. Here is the relevant part. When I was talking to the trailer shop people, I asked about the brackets to lift the camper. The shop foreman instead ordered the axles with a different down-angle which lifted the camper about 3 1/2 inches without using any extra bracketing. They are 6,000lb axles, to take into account the added weight in the interior.
All the work was done by B&B Trailers, St. Augustine, Florida. The Service Manager SPOT-ON knows his stuff! He walked out and looked under camper, took some measurements and knew EXACTLY what to order!
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