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grizbear · 05-19-2015, 01:41 PM

I had my brakes replaced this winter just returned from my first trip with new brakes. After about 150 miles I heard some noise when braking. Stopped for night, found Rt Rear wheel very hot pulled hub grease was very thin. So went to auto store for grease. Was near dark replaced grease replaced hub. Went on my way checked hub temp about every 50 miles stayed cool had mobile tech meet us at next stop. He found burn marks on under side of spindle and in inner surface of bearings. He replaced bearings and races and said it was due to wheel bearing nut being too loose. Have gone 600 miles after repair and wheel hub has remained cool. My question is looking at spindle photos does it look like I need a new axle? And does it appear that this spindle could break without warning? Thanks for any help. Rand

HowieE · 05-19-2015, 02:15 PM

More than likely the person who set the chaste nut had no idea what he was doing and set it TOO tight causing the bearing to spin on it's race rather than on the bearings.

Jack up the trailer and while holding each tire top and bottom rock the tire. You should feel slight play. If it goes clunk clunk that is too much play. If here is no play the bearings are too tight.

I would mic the axle to be sure but I think you are OK because the spindle did not get too hot. It would have changed color if that were the case.

grizbear · 05-19-2015, 02:33 PM

HowieE thanks for the reply. The axle nut was too loose there was play noted.
I know the photos are not great but there are black areas on the under side where the bearings ride. I have talked with AS they said they would have to see it. The wheel was so hot you could not keep your hand on it longer than a second. The wife wants it replaced and you know how that goes. So I guess I was hoping someone here could give me a reason not to. Ha

dznf0g · 05-19-2015, 02:40 PM

From the pic, I wouldn't be concerned....but I can't tell if material is missing...as HowiE says, mic it. the brownish color is staining from hot lube. If the metal had heated to fatigue levels, it would show a lot of bluing.

grizbear · 05-19-2015, 02:55 PM

Thanks Rich I'll do that. The bearing seems to move smoothly and after 600 miles with new bearings there was no heat build up. The tech was very helpful and he said he thought it would be OK. He liked to talk and I picked up a lot of info on RV repair. But like I said before the wife worries. And being stuck on the road is no fun with the wife saying I said to replace the axle.

Rand

AtomicNo13 · 05-19-2015, 03:21 PM

Rarely will a bearing get hit from being loose..... It will however heat up real quick being too tight!

There should be a slight but noticeable amount of play in a properly set bearing.

Use good synthetic grease, it won't liquefy and allow the bearing to run dry!

**Action** · 05-22-2015, 07:49 AM

If the spindle is dis-colored and zero metal missing or pitting, then one of two things happened. (or maybe both) The grease burned and left a stain or the outer surface of the metal got hot enough to change color. HOwever it did not get heated enough to degrade the metal which would be an issue.

When metal heats up to a point it is a problem the surface will start coming apart. At first small pieces of metal come off leaving pits. This would first show up at the bearing race which has already been replaced. The inner race was not seated on the spindle so it moved around. It is supposed to be stationary on the spindle. So heat built up due to friction of metal to metal contact on a surface that is to be stationary.

Likely you are good. A very close inspection of that spindle would be needed to determine if the metal is just discolored (a surface thing) and took some heat or if there are small chunks of metal missing from the surface. Metal missing from the surface means the heat penetrated below the surface such that the metal got degraded. That is an axle replacement situation.

BTW this is one of the reasons vehicle manufacturers when to sealed (non-packable) wheel bearings.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

grizbear · 05-23-2015, 07:37 AM

Thanks Action I'm going to remove it and take a close look get out the micrometer, and see just how smooth or rough it is. Anyone know the tolerance limits on the spindle. My wife worries it will break and cause an accident or major damage so I may be fighting a losing battle.

Thanks for the replies. Rand

Isuzusweet · 05-23-2015, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grizbear

The wife wants it replaced and you know how that goes. So I guess I was hoping someone here could give me a reason not to. Ha

Tell her that you wouldn't replace her, now that she has a few scuff marks and bones maybe prone to breaking as she ages; however if you're regretting your pick of a life mate, tell her it maybe be cheaper to replace the wife.

Of course this conversation is mano-mano and I will refute having said any of this to my darling and dearest wife.

Cheers
Tony

**Action** · 05-23-2015, 10:39 AM

I don't have the spec and you have another axle spindle that you can compare it to.

I would not be so concerned with the actual size. As the size isn't going to change. It is the metal surface that you are examining for structural integrety. If all the metal is there and just discolored I am inclined to save the $1000 in parts + labor. Even very small spots where the metal has come off would be suspect for me.

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

grizbear · 05-23-2015, 06:38 PM

Thanks guys I'll be pulling it tomorrow to look see. What Does BTW stand for? Thanks Rand

**Action** · 05-23-2015, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grizbear

What Does BTW stand for? Thanks Rand

BTW = By THe Way

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

bwoodtx · 05-23-2015, 08:46 PM

Take some 80 or 120 grit emery cloth and polish it and put it back together. Your spindles are heat treated to temp FAR hotter than what you got this to. If it was really, really hot it would have welded the bearing to the spindle.

Polish, reassemble and you will be fine. That is what I would do if it was mine. You must make your own decision for your peace of mind.

grizbear · 05-24-2015, 07:20 AM

Update. I pulled hub this am while I was jacking the trailer up noticed the wheel had a lot of motion as It was lifted off ground. It had a lot of movement of wheel on axle. I watched the RV tech tighten and check for movement. After I removed hub the rear seal was ruptured. I don't understand how its working loose, and a cotter key was used. It seems that its tight but really isn't some how. This has me really perplexed. The burned areas on the spindle feel smooth and the new bearings appear ok. There is one small spot about 1mm that is pitted but its between the areas the bearings ride on not sure how that happened. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rand

dznf0g · 05-24-2015, 07:25 AM

I gather he replaced the bearings and cups. Mysterious "loosening" of a keyed or pinned assembly usually means he didn't get the cup(s) or races seated completely in the drum.

grizbear · 05-24-2015, 09:10 AM

Well figured it out the hub was loose this time due to RV tech 2 used the wrong size outer bearing. So first problem was caused due to improper tension on axle nut, and problem 2 was due to wrong size outer bearing size. I'll have to wait till tuesday to get proper parts. This is another case of if you want it done right do it yourself. Wish me luck finding the correct size parts. Anyone have a good place for parts? Thanks Rand

grizbear · 05-24-2015, 09:23 AM

Thanks Rich. The spot I thought was a pit was just burned grease and cleaned up. I polished the other areas and the outer spindle area cleaned up nicely the inner area cleaned up some,but is still stained but feels very smooth so I'm going to try to find proper size bearings and see how it goes. Thanks to all for input. Rand

polarlyse · 05-24-2015, 10:33 AM

As aggravating as this appears to have been. You got off easy. Now once you get the right stuff and do the job all over again and you'll be good for a long time and so much the wiser. I just did mine a week ago with a good set of American made Timkin
bearings / races. The stuff originally used by Airstream were made in China and I just had to change them.

cwf · 05-24-2015, 10:57 AM

Hope you have correct bearings...and seals.
Clean all parts.
Dry fit bearings to spindle.. No hub. How do they feel? Any slack/ rocking of the inner race on the spindle? If they move too much they may not be correct ones for your spindles. This may be why it only "heated" the lower side of spindle.
Now, if bearings good, lightly oil and assemble.. Tighten castle nut appropriately. Now, put a crowbar under the tire and see if you can "lift" the tire while watching the inside for movement. If the inner race moves something is wrong with bearing fit and needs to be fixed before you go a bit further.

Check the lip where oil seal runs. If it is too sharp or has a burr it can damage seal during install of hub. Lube and fit check before install in hub.

grizbear · 05-24-2015, 12:48 PM

Thanks Channing and Roger I'm in holding pattern till tuesday for parts. My OEM bearings are american made but the ones the RV repair guy used were made in China they have to go even though the inner bearing is the correct size. The guy was bragging about always using the right parts the first time.

Man it's hard to find people that do a job right the first time. Thanks for all the help. Rand