Thanks for the help, especially John! Silver Annie is safely down Mt. Dallas and home. The inner bearing was the wrong way. The seals were correct. Now that I have her home, it's on to the brakes and shocks. I'll post a new thread!
Part numbers for 65 Caravel
Old grease seal #6362 = Napa 16811
Inner bearing says Timken 15123
Outer bearing says 09067 Bower
Here is my reminder list of how to for 1-2 years from now, compiled from the advice on this forum, and with the operation fresh in my mind. I regret I did not note everyone whose advice I copied. If you recognize some of your words in the following, please take the plagiarism as the sincerest form of flattery.
“Idiot’s” Guide to Repacking the Wheel Bearings
When: Every 10,000 miles or every year or two even if not towed
Have on hand:
Big channel locks for hub grease cap
Needle-nose pliers for cotter pin
Crescent wrench for nut on spindle
Good boat trailer grease, such as Lubriplate
2 new grease seals
2 new stainless 2” cotter pins
Block of clean wood, about 4”x4”, to seat grease seal
Securely block wheel on other side
Loosen lugs and hub grease cap
Make a clean place to put parts
Jack up frame behind wheel, take off lugs, remove wheel
Remove hub grease cap, cotter pin, bearing retainer nut, washer and outer bearing
Replace nut, pull drum out, push in a little ways, and jerk to pull drum off while leaving inner bearing and old grease seal on spindle (don’t jerk it off the jack!)
Remove nut, inner bearing, and old seal from spindle
Clean backing plate, brake shoes, and spindle with brake cleaner
Inspect brake shoes and magnet (replace magnets when tops of screws begin to wear)
Clean hub parts thoroughly with brake cleaner or mineral spirits
Completely dry bearings (can use compressed air, but don’t spin them)
Inspect bearings for any damage. Replace if necessary.
Repack clean dry bearings with grease, either by hand or using a plastic cone bearing packer that fits on the end of a grease gun. By hand, put a gob of grease in palm and scrape larger end of bearing against gob of grease and across palm to force grease into bearings; rotate and keep doing it until grease starts to come out the other end of the bearing.
Coat races and drum cavity generously with grease, but don’t pack full, because it will retain too much heat.
Install inner (larger) bearing, making sure the flared open side is up, to match the flare on spindle
Put some grease around edge of cavity between the inner bearing and where the seal will sit
Put new grease seal with inner cup towards bearing, and carefully seat it flush, using block of wood and hammer
Put a little grease on surface and inner edge of seal and lightly coat spindle with grease
Clean any grease off braking surface and inner drum with brake cleaner.
Put drum carefully back on spindle.
Push outer bearing and washer in over spindle.
Put bearing retainer nut on with slots out. Hand tighten and then back off to the next slot in the nut. Grab hold of the drum and see if you can feel a slight bit of play. If not, then back off one more slot on the nut. When done, a slight amount of play must be felt, indicating it is not overly tightened. As the bearings warm up, some of that play will go away, as opposed to being very tight, which would cause the bearings and races to overheat.
Install new cotter pin.
Coat inside of hub grease cap with grease and fill about 1/3 full, hand tighten.
Replace wheel and hand tighten lugs.
Jack down and tighten lug nuts and grease cap. You’re half done!