Floor Cracks, Door Cracks & more Cracks

[JMR]

Has anyone ever seen this type of damage before? I have three cracks in my floor that run across the trailer. One by the front door, one in the middle of the trailer and one near the bathroom entrance. The one by the front door seems to be following the joint where the two pieces of plywood are meeting. It appears that there is no support (outrigger) under the joint. I am assuming (hoping with my fingers crossed) that this could be the cause of the problem. I have a sneaking suspicion on what the true problem might be (bent or broken outrigger) but am hoping otherwise. To add to my problems the lower corners of my door frame have split. Has anyone come across this type of problem? If so how did you go about fixing it? (See attached photos if I've done it right)

Thanks
Jeff

[j54mark]

It is to be expected that sheet linoleum would crack across the plywood joints. When the factory used to install floor tiles they placed the tiles so they joints were over the underlayment seams.

The door frame is an other issue entirely and I would want to look underneath before venturing an opinion.

Mark

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by JMR

Has anyone ever seen this type of damage before? I have three cracks in my floor that run across the trailer. One by the front door, one in the middle of the trailer and one near the bathroom entrance. The one by the front door seems to be following the joint where the two pieces of plywood are meeting. It appears that there is no support (outrigger) under the joint. I am assuming (hoping with my fingers crossed) that this could be the cause of the problem. I have a sneaking suspicion on what the true problem might be (bent or broken outrigger) but am hoping otherwise. To add to my problems the lower corners of my door frame have split. Has anyone come across this type of problem? If so how did you go about fixing it? (See attached photos if I've done it right)

Thanks
Jeff

Jeff, it looks like you suspicions are correct, you seem to have some lower structural problems going on under your floor.
As far as repairing the lower corners of your door frame, after you get the underlying cause corrected, you can try gusseting a flat aluminum bracket from the bottom of the frame to the sides. Aluminum rivets would be best. If you are handy with money (who is?) you could take out the frame, and have it welded back together. That, however, is a lot of work, and I am not sure the benefits would outweigh the cost, both in time and money.

[JMR]

I didn't want to remove the belly pan but it looks like I may have to. I was getting prepared to replace the floor in the front section so I might be able to do a shell on inspection if I remove enough of the floor. As far as removing the door... I think I'm handy but that depends on who you ask. I may use your suggestion about the aluminum brackets.

Thanks
Jeff

[thenewkid64]

I would call a welder and see if it can be MIG welded in place. Aluminum welds at a much lower temprature than steel so it should be able to be done in place IMHO.

[TomW]

Originally Posted by thenewkid64

I would call a welder and see if it can be MIG welded in place...

I agree with Brett's strategy. But you need to figure out why it cracked in the first place or the new weld may just crack again.

Tom

[Inland RV Center, In]

JMR.

I have made several posts regarding cracking of the floor tiles or linoleum.

The cracks are caused by the seams in the plywood floor. If you measure them, you will find them to be 4 feet apart.

That in itself, does not suggest any problem with the trailer. It is absolutely normal.

The cast door jamb crack is another matter. That is caused in it's entirety by not having the running gear properly balanced.

You are not the first owner, with a cracked cast door jamb. There are hundreds of them.

Someone that's good with a heliarc, can correct the cracks with little to no problem.

The big problem is to shield the aluminum panels from that heat, as well as the wood floor.

Inspecting the condition of the axle, is a must in this case. If the torsion arm, as it goes rearward, is parallel to the chassis, or is going upward, then the axle has been bottoming out when hitting bumps. That being the case, I would suggest that you also inspect the axle mounting plates for any fatigue cracks.

If the axle is as described, it must be replaced to avoid any further damage to the chassis or shell as well as to the appliances and cabinetry.

Andy

[Inland RV Center, In]

JMR.

Your entrance door is also sagging at the hinge.

The bottom of the door sheetmetal is overlapping the underbelly wrap.

Ypu should realign the door. That can easily be done by drilling out the rivets that hold the door to the hinge. Align the door and the drill 1/4 inch holes for
some bolts.

If you do it right, it will still look great.

Additionally, the hinge pin may be severely worn.

All of this is caused by lack of correct running gear balance.

Andy

[j54mark]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

All of this is caused by lack of correct running gear balance.

Andy

Undoubtedly true. Although 41 years of use may have played a role as well.

Mark

[JMR]

I'm heading out right now to check my axels.

Muchos Gracias!
Jeff

[JMR]

Went and checked out my axel situation. To my untrained eye they look like they are still pointing down but may flaten out when extra weight is put on them. I don't doubt that they will need to be replaced soon I am just trying to delay the expense. Any expert opinions? Photos curbside front and rear, streetside front and rear.

[TomW]

Your axles may be riding low, but with your current situation, you need to be more concerned with running gear balance (like Andy mentioned).

Replace your axles if you deem it necessary, but a plan to balance your running gear will benefit your current situation more in the end run. Even new axles require good running gear balance to treat your Airstream right.

Search all you want, but it appears InlandRV is about the only place that handle the complete task. Sorry for the dismal response, but other than letting your local tire shop balance the tires with weights, there is probably not much you can to help your running gear's balance.

Tom

[JMR]

Thanks for everyones advice. I have no doubt that Andy knows what he is talking about. I have read many of his posts/replies and have learned alot from them. I would also like to have Inland RV balance my running gear unfortunately they are roughly 1550 mi (2500 kms) away from me (my trailer would probably shake apart by the time I arrived). I have searched these forums for the method of how to balance running gear but have not found anything.

What exactly is involved in balancing one's running gear?
Is there a backyard method to balancing running gear?
If not what other option/s (other than having my tires balance) are there to ensure I have my running gear balanced?

Jeff

[markdoane]

Yes there is a backyard method, but it is very laborious. What you want are Centramatic wheel balancers.

[JMR]

I realized shortly after my previous post that the questions I am asking are starting to be more related to the wheel and axel forum. Now that I have figured out how to use the search properly I found some posts relating to some of my questions in the axel and wheel forum. I will be reading through those files for the next while.

What you want are Centramatic wheel balancers.

Thanks markdoane


Jeff

[TomW]

FWIW, Centramatics would not mount correctly due to the offset my Overlander's original wheels have.

Tom