Dexter Torsion Axle Lift Kit

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Looks great silver eagle!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Owners, please keep in mind, that the "Dexter Lift Kit" does not take the place of bad rubber rods in torsion axles.

If the rubber rods are finished, then the shell will receive excessive shocks.

Adding the lift kit, will not, in any way, nor to any degree, reduce the negative effect of road shock.

The lift kit, does indeed serve a very useful purpose, for those owners that have steep driveways, etc.

Andy

[GCinSC2]

I'm the "friend" that John bribed.

This was accepted as a challenging project for a friend. Even after actually doing it, its still a challenging project but John is now even a better friend. Pretty good deal.

IF you're considering installing one (and these comments are based on only one installation, a 2007 Classic) first, look at each axle flange and visualize it dropping down 3". Clearance issues or not?

Raising and securing the trailer in the process, ALL of your best safety practices required to do this job goes without saying but gotta mention it.

I think the PITA is access to removing the old bolts and then at least double that complexity as you insert the lift brackets and reattach the axles. Don't have welding but do have a fair amount of shop junk and both wrenches needed ground to narrow them to fit in the small space available. All in all, fairly small grinding.

The biggest oh crap moment was the street side rear lift bracket would not slide into position, no way no how. The pan covers really said ain't happening. We had to really drop the pan cover a lot (John's pic is actually upside down) and then lower the axle enough to slide the bracket in from behind. I got it in only to find out that the poo tank interfered. Back to the vise and out comes the disc grinder for a trim to clear the poo tank.

That was when we had to fish a bolt and washer into position from over a foot away. You have to get creative. but getting the wrench onto it, that's where the extension came in just to get the wrench on the fastener. No way could that tape hold the torque but somehow the fastener took hold and the wrench just kept everyone honest.

Didn't see this in the Dexter instructions but I used a 6" machinist square to scribe a line from the axles as installed position up onto the frame. This was used as a reference line to reposition the lifted axle.

Yup, I made a fuss about the brake hoses, a real unknown. Made a sketch and then checked with a wheel off using a piece of small diameter hose to check the new lifted position. This confirmed that the hose did have enough slack to accomodate. but this was the recall hose config, slightly longer but with a short steel line to transition to the caliper. We did not have to touch the brakes that a couple of months ago we replace the actuator and properly bled the system.

Its a pretty easy sounding job, lift a trailer insert the lift brackets and reinstall the axles. Right. Wait till you do one for the first time.

John and his premium half Jeannie are the big reason that I said, sure lets give it a shot.

Happy trails John & Jeannie.

[SilverEagle6]

Thanks again to Gary, all the work, the great campfires and to his bride Linda for some very special meals.
Glad to had this done and to have shared the experience with two great folks.

[ttbikes]

Used 1 1/2" by 3" channel and went from 2 bolts to 4 bolts per side. 3 hours labor by an an experienced repairman. Our first trip out was 500 miles and I did not notice a difference in ride. Have been to 2 Airstream rallies, and no one noticed the height change until I pointed it out. I do think it looked better lower, but I now can get in and out of the driveway.

[GCinSC2]

ttbikes,

Did you weld the axle to spacer and weld the spacer to frame? That's what it looks like in the pic, just curious.

Gary

[ttbikes]

Yes, tack welded. Not sure it was needed but went ahead anyway.

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

It's much easier to look at the trailing arm, or torsion arm at it's position.

When it's parallel to the ground or even nearly so when the trailer is empty, that's it. THey have served their useful life.

It would be much harder for the shocks to be parallel, and even if possible.

Andy

Andy,
I've visited the Dexter Axle website after looking at my 2008 22' Sport axles (which have about 10-degree NEGATIVE angle of the trailing arm) and find that Dexter actually makes axles which START OUT at MINUS trailing angles. Their 4100-6000 lbs axles are #11 axles and the trailing angle can be specified.

I have a hard time believing my axles are "worn out" after only 8 years of (mostly) storage and less than 10K of travelling.

Dexter's website also specifies a 3" travel for the upper edge of the tire to any contact with the trailer and mine certainly meets that spec also.

I do want greater clearance and am trying to decide on which lift-kit to order (since they only sell them for tandem axles and I have a Bambi.) Their No. 11 axle (which is what is on my 22' Sport) has dimensions that cannot be met by their single-axle kit for #8 axles (the only single kit they offer.)

I have the ability to make my own but would rather simply buy what I need. Does your company offer a single-axle lift kit which fits the #11 axle?
Thanks.

[Action]

Visually looking at the angle of the trailing arm is a quick method of check the health of an axle. The better method is to raise the trailer and measure the drop of the axle.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by Action

Visually looking at the angle of the trailing arm is a quick method of check the health of an axle. The better method is to raise the trailer and measure the drop of the axle.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

Apparently it's not just a simple matter of seeing if the trailing link declines or not... as Dexter made all kinds of different angle axles, from 42 positive to 24 negative angles, in each model of axle. Dexter.com

[Action]

Like I stated, it isn't the best method to determine the condition of the axle. If the trailer is not yours and you are considering buying it. (Or some other reason) And you don't have permission to lift the trailer it has some merit. Especially if the observation is the trailing arm is in the downward position.

Lifting the trailer and observing axle drop is the single best method for determining condition.

>>>>>>>>>Action

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by Action

Like I stated, it isn't the best method to determine the condition of the axle. If the trailer is not yours and you are considering buying it. (Or some other reason) And you don't have permission to lift the trailer it has some merit. Especially if the observation is the trailing arm is in the downward position.

Lifting the trailer and observing axle drop is the single best method for determining condition.

>>>>>>>>>Action

I understand you, I think, ... the only thing I was attempting to express is that the actual/original specification of the axle/installation is necessary to "eyeball" it for the trailing edge angle. A "downward" position is NOT universal at all.
My 22' Sport has a 10-degree UPward trailing angle and is designed to be such. Anyone looking beneath it and seeing that might conclude the axle is worn out, when in fact it's just fine.

[SilverEagle6]

Installed the lift kit a couple months ago on a 2008 30' Classic Ltd. since then have towed about 1,000 miles. Absolutely no negative impact on driving/towing. I knew a couple pitfalls were the effect on stabilizers and step. Neither of these I view as negative. I knew the jack would be different and I am thankful that my jack has an 18" travel. I have to add nearly three inches of block to my jack stand. Note: I also have have 16" Michelins.

We have just started on a long 1.5 - 2 year journey so I wanted in make sure that after the install the alignment was good.....and it was not. Had it corrected at Jackson Center.

Very happy that the lift kit was installed and thrilled of the added height at hook up and dump time.

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We had to get ours aligned as well. Cost $200.

It was pretty close left and right, but the camber needed some adjustment(which means it needed adjustment from the factory too).

[GCinSC2]

John called and described the alignment and it sounds like actual axle alignment was corrected slightly but axle position somehow inexplicably was good. Not sure how that happened.

John & Jeannie travel safe. Go find that largest ball of twine and take its picture. RT 66 still needs explored.

[sir_tob]

Originally Posted by Action

Lifting the trailer and observing axle drop is the single best method for determining condition.

If it doesn't sag at that point, could it also mean the 40year old shocks are probably bad. Shouldn't the torsion axle drop without the shocks in place?

Or will it drop even with bad or good shocks in place?

[Zybane]

Any way to put the axle lift on without ruining the alignment? Reference marks?

[J. Morgan]

My trailer frame was notched firmly and precisely placing the axles. I simply used a carpenters framing square to drop the notch location onto the new material.

My axles are well enough aligned that the tires wear perfectly even, and my trailer pulls dead straight.

Close enough for me.


Superat stultitia.

[Action]

Originally Posted by sir_tob

If it doesn't sag at that point, could it also mean the 40year old shocks are probably bad. Shouldn't the torsion axle drop without the shocks in place?

Or will it drop even with bad or good shocks in place?

Good or bad original type shocks have no influence on total axle movement with one exception. The shocks are there only to slow the movement not to prevent movement. The exception is if the shocks are frozen in place which is a rare event. The more likely event is internally there is no more resistance and that is a bad shock as well.

So if the shocks are on, the axle will still drop assuming the rubber rods are in good condition. It may take slightly longer for an axle to drop with the shocks on however the amount of time is maybe a minute or two.

>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[Zybane]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

My trailer frame was notched firmly and precisely placing the axles. I simply used a carpenters framing square to drop the notch location onto the new material.

My axles are well enough aligned that the tires wear perfectly even, and my trailer pulls dead straight.

Close enough for me.


Superat stultitia.

J, good idea. I think I will do the same and deal with an alignment afterwards if it needs it down the road.