Dexter Torsion Axle Lift Kit

[nvestysly]

Originally Posted by KYAirstream

I've got a 31ft 1979 and will be putting new axles on this summer, which I'm sure will help with drag significantly. While adding the lift doesn't look like a difficult job, it would certainly be easier to do while I'm replacing the axles. That said, things may be fine without the lift, so I'm debating whether to wait and see, or go ahead and knock it out all at once...

If you're ordering new axles consider buying them with the increased angle. I don't recall the specs but I think it's 30+ degrees versus the original angle of 20+ degrees. The increased angle will likely more than makeup for the amount of lift you might want.

[KYAirstream]

Yes, I'm definitely going with the 32 degree down angle. I've seen where some do that along with the lift though, so was wondering whether I might be better off doing the same.

[nvestysly]

Originally Posted by KYAirstream

Yes, I'm definitely going with the 32 degree down angle. I've seen where some do that along with the lift though, so was wondering whether I might be better off doing the same.

Do some math to see how much drop-over angle (?) you'll gain with and without the lift kit. The new axles with the 32 degree angle may be sufficient.

We recently had new axles installed at Jackson Center. I would have liked to do the job myself but we experienced a catastrophic failure while traveling. A wheel came off when the torsion bar broke right at the swing arm. Fortunately, no damage to the trailer as the wheel stayed nicely tucked in the wheel well and we stopped to check everything out. We were able to limp to JC and they had new axles (normal angle) in stock and a service bay to install them.

The new axles with the normal angle raised the trailer 2 inches. I guess it will settle over time. The 32 degree angle on your new axles will likely raise the trailer another 2 inches. You may not need the added lift kit if your existing axles were like ours.

Just for reference, our old axles were not worn out in the normal sense. The swing arms would return to a positive angle when unloaded and even with load I think they were nearly parallel to the ground. But the new axles have a positive angle even with the load.

[KYAirstream]

You have a good point, and I suspect you may be right that the 32 degree angle may be more than enough. That said, I wonder how many have added a lift to the 32 degree angle and if it was really necessary...

[explore more]

maybe just get the 32* axles first and see where it sits. If it's not enough, then add the blocks later. shouldn't be too much extra work.

[explore more]

Originally Posted by nickclifford

Seems strange that even on new models, AS models still has low ground clearance ...

it seems like the new ones have even less clearance, especially these big 30 footers.

[BoldAdventure]

Originally Posted by nickclifford

Seems strange that even on new models, AS models still has low ground clearance ...

Go tow a large 30+ box trailer with all that wonderful ground clearance and then you'll understand why Airstreams tow so much better. The low ground clearance and center of gravity with the fresh tanks over the axles plus the aerodynamics creates real world advantages to towing.

I have never had so much as the slightest jolt from towing in the past year full-time. But I remember what it felt like to have semi's push a Jayco around.

What doesn't make sense is that the steps hang so low compared to the rest of the body.

[KYAirstream]

How low is an Airstream with 2" lift compared to a box trailer?

[BigAl]

The aluminum steps on my Excella do not hang down below the belly pan. They are flush when folded up.
Your steps are the cheaper steel ones.
Al

[the frog]

Looks good... I have had a new set of axles for my 1980 31ft International for some time and finally gettin time to install them, hopefully,
Got under it today to start oiling the nuts and bolts to hopefully make it a little easier to get them loose. I see 4 bolts on each side to loosen to get the axle to come down. The 2 on the side are no problem you can see the bolt and the nut and spray them easily, but, on the 2 on top that bolt to the frame, you can't get to the nut, or even see it. Did you have to go through the floor to get to them, or by some chance are they welded so that they won't turn when you try to loosen them?
I see that it makes sense to put a lift kit in when I put the axles in.
ANY ADVISE IS APPRECIATED

[shadrick5]

I installed new torsion axles on my vintage '75 from Mr. Hyde in '13 but forgot to ask for an torsion angle increase. My question is that since I do drag that 31' trailer, even on many 45 degree approaches, was the original Airstream engineered design build for dragging? I have seen many post that discourage adding HD castor wheels to the rear skid for a variety of reasons, but I haven't really read or heard of whether or not the original design specs accounted for multiple rear end drags on angled approaches. Appreciate any input to ease my mind prior to scrapping the new axles for a higher angle or buying a lift kit since a larger tire diameter will not fit. Thanks.

[KimberlyA]

My rear-end drags. I will be adding a lift. Possibly caster's too. Definitely a lift. Maybe 16 inch rims.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by KimberlyA

My rear-end drags. I will be adding a lift. Possibly caster's too. Definitely a lift. Maybe 16 inch rims.

A lift kit is OK to use. Or, you can simply add some 2 inch wide channel steel, of a variety of different dimensions depending on what you need to have.

Casters are an ABSOLUTE NO NO.

The casters will roll, no problem, BUT, when they do, they in turn will lift the rear end, IMPROPERLY, which will damage the rear quarter panels, guaranteed.

Keep in mind that while the lift kit will raise the trailer shell, it in turn will not increase the ground clearance at the axle tubes.

Andy

[BoldAdventure]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Keep in mind that while the lift kit will raise the trailer shell, it in turn will not increase the ground clearance at the axle tubes.

Andy

It's what we would call in the truck world a body lift. Not a suspension lift. The axles, on the other hand, are a suspension lift.

Considering I just dinged up another set of steps, we are going to consider the axles for our lifestyle and camping preference.

[KYAirstream]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

A lift kit is OK to use. Or, you can simply add some 2 inch wide channel steel, of a variety of different dimensions depending on what you need to have.

Casters are an ABSOLUTE NO NO.

The casters will roll, no problem, BUT, when they do, they in turn will lift the rear end, IMPROPERLY, which will damage the rear quarter panels, guaranteed.

Keep in mind that while the lift kit will raise the trailer shell, it in turn will not increase the ground clearance at the axle tubes.

Andy

Andy-- can you explain why casters could cause damage to panels when they roll, but the rear end dragging won't. Trying to understand the difference....because the force is generated on the small point of the casters? That said, if the rear end drags isn't the force focused on the part of the frame that hangs down?

[rmkrum]

Opinion only, but when you drag a wheel it's quiet. The rasping sound the skid makes (or anything else dragging) tends to alert you, assuming you are paying attention.

I have a rear quarter wrinkle from dropping a skid when the wheels hit s low spot. Wheels on the skid would not have helped.


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[jwgilesjr]

Hello All,

Given the content of this thread, I thought this info may be useful to someone.

I bought my first Airstream a month ago, a 1996 Excella 25'. I dragged the back end going into a parking lot on my way home from picking up the trailer, and decided to look into a way to increase the clearance. I actually saw this thread, purchased the Dexter #11 lift kit, and installed it this past weekend.

I haven't had the chance to take the trailer out on the road, but I can at least speak to the installation process, which seemed to go fairly well. I had a minor issue with the vertical mount hole alignment (photo #1, sorry I don't know why the photo loaded upside down), I had to remove the gas line which ran through both axles on one side (photo #2, should be rotated 90 degrees), and I had to shorten the mounting bolts adjacent to the shocks to prevent interference (photo #3, left bolt). Once I worked through those issues, the installation was straightforward, although it was a good bit of work.

Photo #4 shows the difference between the front axle (left) which has the lift already installed and the rear axle (right) prior to installation of the lift. Photo #5 shows the completed installation.

To remove and install the mounting bolts, I needed two 15/16 (or 24mm) wrenches, closed on one end and boxed on the other. Getting the wrench on the bolts once the lift is in place can be a bit tricky. I also used a 24" breaker bar with a pipe to loosen the bolts and deep socket (15/16 or 24mm). I soaked the bolts with WD-40 a few days prior.

Haven't had the chance to test drive, so I can't claim victory, but I thought I'd put the information out there.

John

[explore more]

looks great! thanks for the writeup and the pics.

[explore more]

My kit is in the mail, should be here in a couple days. I'll make sure tonfilm a video when i install it this weekend.

[rmkrum]

Video would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for considering it!


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