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Old 06-02-2018, 07:53 AM   #1
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2016 27' Flying Cloud
Hartsburg , Missouri
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 452
Dexter lift kit on 2016 27' FC FB

Well finally got around to installing the Dexter 2 7/8" lift kit on my trailer. There are good instructional videos (The More We Explore) and posts here (by Troutboy) so I thought I'd just pass on a few comments from my experience. This can be a DIY project but I would not attempt it without a good level spot to work on and an air gun. Be prepared to work in some awkward and tight positions and to have to break some really tight lock bolts. I worked on one side at a time and always kept one wheel on for safety when jacked up. The rear axle was comparatively easy with reasonable access. The front axle took a lot of persistence trying to get a wrench inside the frame and between the water tank and frame while tightening it with the air gun from the wheel well. A pair of right angle needle nose pliers and a crow foot or open end socket were the only way I was able to get one of the bolts in position and held to tighten. Not sure why the kit doesn't come with bolts with tabs welded on them so they cant turn inside the channel steel extension like done in The More We explore Video, but I got it done without resorting to that. It took two of us four hours,but that was with the trailer pulled in my friends very nice shop with all the right tools at hand. I'm very happy with the end result and the way the trailer pulls.-- Frank
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2016 27' FC FB with 600 W solar
2016 Ford F150 EcoBoost
Equalizer Hitch
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Old 06-02-2018, 03:28 PM   #2
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2016 27' Flying Cloud
Hartsburg , Missouri
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I also took this opportunity to replace all the original lug nuts that have the stainless covers that spin off with McGard lugnuts, got 24 for $47 on ebay.--Frank
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2016 27' FC FB with 600 W solar
2016 Ford F150 EcoBoost
Equalizer Hitch
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Old 12-24-2020, 11:57 AM   #3
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2020 27' Globetrotter
STAMFORD , Connecticut
Join Date: Oct 2019
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Last week, I installed the Dexter 3" lift kit on my 2020 Globetrotter. We also watched a number of videos online, including the More We Explore videos. We noticed that he used floor jacks and jack stands to raise the trailer, but we didn't want to risk bending anything.

So, instead of trying to raise the trailer on floor jacks, we built some ramps out of two stacked 2x8s and tri-levers (screwed down to the 2x8 stack), and we ran the whole trailer (both sides) up on those, giving us plenty of clearance underneath. We left the truck and trailer hitched with the parking brake on and we chocked the loaded tires. The working surface was level. Of course, we used various combinations of floor jacks and jack stands to gently maneuver the axles.

The whole job is relatively uncomplicated but it is indeed quite awkward, especially getting an open-ended box wrench up inside between the frame and the tanks. But, working together, one of us (me) on the inside wrench and my friend outside, we were able to get it all done. At times we needed to use a few wood blocks of various sizes to spread the load from the end of the inside wrench so that it didn't put too much pressure on the soft metal surfaces (belly pan, tanks, etc) adjacent to the frame. Don't try to use your hand/fingers: if you can't hold the load, you could get your hand pretty well stuck. Happened to me once (and I knew better).

Several times, after getting the bolts torqued to 150 foot pounds, we had to wiggle and/or tap at the wrench we had used inside the frame to get it to "let go".

You'll want to do some dry fitting of the bolts to make sure (a) your inside wrench will get a purchase; and (b) you can get the next bolt in once the previous one is tightened. We had to go back once or twice and redo that. We used Loctite Red on all the nuts.

Also, before loosening the original nuts, take some measurements and mark or score the frame so you know where the axles should be positioned and re-fastened.

Once the trailer was done, we attended to the Equalizer hitch. We figured that the ball needed to go up three inches. The distance between the vertical adjustment holes on the hitch is about 1.5 inches so we raised the hitch two holes for three inches. Sighting along the whole rig, it's all level with just a very slight downward pitch at the front end of the trailer. We also measure the distance from the ground to the outer lip of the wheel well on the trailer front and rear axles and got an almost equal measurement.

I'd be curious if anyone did a similar adjustment on the hitch.

It may be psychological but I think the trailer tows a little better, if not just as well as before. In our case, the ground clearance is now about the same across the truck and trailer, so I wonder if there is actually less disturbed airflow and that's why it might feel better.

Oh, btw, we found a broken brake wire and fixed that. Always good to inspect!
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Old 12-24-2020, 01:34 PM   #4
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2007 27' International CCD FB
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Oh, btw, we found a broken brake wire and fixed that. Always good to inspect!
Hah, I found a broken brake wire with mine as well during the lift.

Looks like there's systemic issues with how the factory crimps the brake wire, without enough insulator relief locally to the crimp, causing the wire to fatigue break.

Disappointed, but that's how these things go and I'm glad I found and fixed it.
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