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Old 05-25-2009, 05:23 PM   #1
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1965 24' Tradewind
Warner , New Hampshire
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Can '65 axles still be good?

My 1965 axels still seem to be good. Is this possible? When I trailered it home it road smooth and steady with no bouncing at all. The torsion bars are all in a downward position. Is it just wishful thinking on my part or can these actually still be good? The original owner used it at a lake and it was on blocks but I'm sure it wasn't that way forever.

If I do need to replace them what will be the easiest to install? I have read some threads about using OEM axels. This way I won't need to do any drilling and welding.

Thanks

Brian
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Old 05-25-2009, 05:28 PM   #2
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My 1965 axels still seem to be good. Is this possible? When I trailered it home it road smooth and steady with no bouncing at all. The torsion bars are all in a downward position. Is it just wishful thinking on my part or can these actually still be good? The original owner used it at a lake and it was on blocks but I'm sure it wasn't that way forever.

If I do need to replace them what will be the easiest to install? I have read some threads about using OEM axels. This way I won't need to do any drilling and welding.

Thanks

Brian
Brian.

The axle could be good, as a rarety.

Read the axle article in Airstream Central, so that you can check the axle out with the other test, other than looking at the torsion arm.

Andy
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Old 05-25-2009, 07:52 PM   #3
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1965 24' Tradewind
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Thanks Andy

I read your article in airstream central and it explains the inspection process very well. When my trailer was all together I still had a positive angle on the torsion bars. Can this inspection still be done with the body off the frame? On will it be too light? Thanks again for your help.

Brian
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:20 PM   #4
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Thanks Andy

I read your article in airstream central and it explains the inspection process very well. When my trailer was all together I still had a positive angle on the torsion bars. Can this inspection still be done with the body off the frame? On will it be too light? Thanks again for your help.

Brian
With the shell off, the torsion arm position would be artificial because of the lack of weight.

However the test to determine the condition of the rubber rods, by jacking up one side, and watching for that ball park 3 inch drop in the tire position, would still be very valid.

Andy
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:46 PM   #5
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On a 65 with OEM axles you will have to drill 3, 1/2 holes on each side of the axle. You will also have to weld on your shock brackets. I just put a set of Andy's axles on my 1967 Tradewind, the fit was excelent, and his service is supurb! Adios, John
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:58 AM   #6
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On a 65 with OEM axles you will have to drill 3, 1/2 holes on each side of the axle. You will also have to weld on your shock brackets. I just put a set of Andy's axles on my 1967 Tradewind, the fit was excelent, and his service is supurb! Adios, John

Do I need to cut my existing shock brackets off the frame and then reweld them in a different location? How involved will this be? It doesn't sound to bad since it seems like many many people have to do the same thing. Just trying to save myself so extra work if possible.

Brian
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:31 AM   #7
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I am in the proccess of installing pair of new axles from Inland RV. Today I have a neighbor welding the shock brackets on for me. One original axle has been removed. I am taking pictures as I go to post soon. Stay tuned. Don't touch that dial.
Neil.
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:35 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by briheath View Post
Do I need to cut my existing shock brackets off the frame and then reweld them in a different location? How involved will this be? It doesn't sound to bad since it seems like many many people have to do the same thing. Just trying to save myself so extra work if possible.

Brian
If you buy your new axles from Andy everything that is needed is included, new shock brackets down to new lug nuts. Of course I getting new baking plates w/new brakes and drums.
Neil
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:02 AM   #9
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If you buy your new axles from Andy everything that is needed is included, new shock brackets down to new lug nuts. Of course I getting new baking plates w/new brakes and drums.
Neil
We also include "grade 8" mounting hardware, and an axle manual at no charge as well.

Andy
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Old 05-31-2009, 01:27 PM   #10
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Thanks Lizzy I look forward to seeing the progress.

Brian
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:17 PM   #11
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1965 17' Caravel
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66 caravel axles

where is the best place to buy a kit to replace the axle in my 66 caravel ,I see andy's is listed ,is there a site or a phone number to call them or maybe inland rv ?? please list if there is ....Thanks Dave Rooker
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:52 PM   #12
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where is the best place to buy a kit to replace the axle in my 66 caravel ,I see andy's is listed ,is there a site or a phone number to call them or maybe inland rv ?? please list if there is ....Thanks Dave Rooker
Our toll free phone number is 800-8777311.

Andy
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Old 06-04-2009, 02:11 PM   #13
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Is there any way that the axle on a '67 Globetrotter could still be good? Both of the torsion arms are still showing a good downward angle when fully loaded.

Is there an easy way, aside from "does it look old", to tell if my axle has been replaced? This trailer lived on the coast for a few years so surface corrosion is not a good indicator.
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Old 06-04-2009, 03:28 PM   #14
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Is there any way that the axle on a '67 Globetrotter could still be good? Both of the torsion arms are still showing a good downward angle when fully loaded.

Is there an easy way, aside from "does it look old", to tell if my axle has been replaced? This trailer lived on the coast for a few years so surface corrosion is not a good indicator.
As I posted earlier I am half way done with replacing my tandems. Our Trade Wind had some slight downward angles to them so I was hoping to postpone the axle replacement. However, a recent return trip on I-80 that has a really rough stretch tossed everything out of the rear bath sink and wardrobe. In removing the bolts of the axles 2 have to exit out behind the tortion arm. I suppose one should be able to pry the arm up or down some to give clearance for the bolt to slide out. One out of the four bolts I could do that but three would not budge enough. The rubber is as hard as iron with NO give. I had to cut the bolts to get them out. Moral; old tortions may 'look' OK but they ain't cushioning any bumps.
Neil.
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:02 PM   #15
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I'm working now on replacing the axles and brakes on our 67. (BTW, Andy's product is very good!) When I rolled the AS up on blocks on one axle, I took a break, went inside, and looked out the window. And I noticed that the slight downward angle on the axle holding all the weight was nearly identical to the downward angle of the axle that was hanging in the air. That told lots about the condition of the old axles!

Lynn
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:44 PM   #16
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the inland rv site has information on how to check the axles. in addition to the angle, the axle should drop about three inches when jacked up. no movement = bad axle.
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:36 PM   #17
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We thought the axles were ok on our '65 Safari- the angle was right (loaded and unloaded) and a trailer shop said that they were fine. Well, after a very long trip, we ended up with two cracks in the frame, one at each end of the axle mount plate on the curbside. It's fixable, but if I had replaced the axle before leaving, I probably wouldn't be spending as much "quality time" under the Safari as I am these days. We ended up with a Dexter, and it seems to be ok- but if I had it to do again, I'd go with the Inland RV Henschen. Cost is higher, but you won't end up with reversed brackets welded to your mounting plate like I now have, and you'll have shock mounts, which I still don't have.

So if you think you maybe, possibly, might want to replace your axle... do it, and save a lot of pain down the road.

Brad
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:16 AM   #18
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When we purchased our Overlander I suspected an axles change. I did look at the arm angle and it was almost horizontal empty.
I thought "It will get me thru the first season and then I'll change em" "Wrong" That little bit of angle was only there because the rubber in the tube was completely hard and had taken a set. The second trip out it began to break things. Like the mirror rivets on the bathroom door , IT had such a jar it was unrolling the toiletpaper and roll towel off the racks,opening the fridge door in transit,just to name a few things. I had popped rivets both inside and out that were not there when I did the first inspecting before I purchased it.
When I pulled the first axle onto the lumber to change out the axle it stayed in the up position.It may look good but looks are deceiving sometimes.
Andy supplied all the hardware and even called me himself to make sure it had arrived.I am maybe more fortunate than most, I was able to pickup my axles at the factory with my flatbed.
I think Dexter makes a good product for SOB's and Horse trailers and if you look at the backing plates and brake parts on a Henshen they are made by Dexter. But there is nothing like a OEM axle made to fit exactly as the one that was installed when the trailer was new.
I didn't have any problems installing my OEM axles. I KNOW I payed alot but it was worth it.
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Old 06-11-2009, 10:53 AM   #19
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The first image is from under our coach 3 Thursdays ago. The second is what it is now. I will post on a new thread the proccess of my installation as soon as I organize all the images that I recorded.
Neil.
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