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Old 08-28-2003, 10:41 PM   #21
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No need to drop the axels to replace shocks.

It can be a tough job.

Also, if you drop the axels be sure to invest in an alignment.
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:46 PM   #22
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Hmm. I do not like to bend stuff. I imagine the shock travel to be off center, then, unless you move the bottom mount out as well. 2 inches is a lot of bending, for my taste.
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Old 08-29-2003, 08:52 AM   #23
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Stephanie.

The "ONLY" place to lift a single axle Airstream, is behind the wheels, "ON THE AXLE MOUNTING PLATE." That is also the only place to locate a "jack stand." For safety purposes, a jack stand should also be placed under the A-frame, just in case the front jack may decide to fail.

A tandem axle trailer, is lifted between the wheels, on the axle mounting plate, and the jack stands are placed behind the rear wheels, on the axle mounting plate. Again, use a jack stand under the A-frame.

A tri-axle trailer is lifted between the center and rear wheels, at the axle mounting plates. The jack stands are placed behind the rear wheels, on the axle mounting plates. Again, use a jack stand under the A-frame.

CAUTION...........

Use a hydraulic jack as well as jack stands that have an adequate or better weight rating. It is suggested to use 5 tons.

Placing a jack, or jack stand on the frame is very dangerous. If not placed "exactly correct," they can easily slip, curling the frame, and dropping the trailer.

A final word of caution. DO NOT allow anyone, not even a kid, to enter any trailer that is up on jacks or jack stands. The right movement at the right place, can cause the trailer to fall off the jacks.

To the "do it yourselfer," if your going to be under the trailer that is on jacks or jack stands, please have an observer close at hand. Their purpose is not to observe your talents, but to be a safety guard, in the event the trailer may fall off the jacks. You may have the trailer, in your opinion, safely supported. BUT, a sudden and adequate "gust of wind" can occur at any time, which in turn, could cause the trailer to fall off the jacks.

Better to be safe, than sorry, always.

Andy
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Old 08-29-2003, 03:01 PM   #24
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Hi Andy,
Thanks for chiming in and giving advice. I am glad to read that I basically did the right thing, and live to tell about it. Somehow it's much more intimidating to lift up this trailer than lifting up the van, even though the van is heavier. Maybe it's just not as fragile as the trailer.

The new axles made a big difference. I took the trailer home to wash it and try out the new axles and tires. I left in a hurry and did not put the table down or fold up the chair. I also left a plastic container in the sink with flaslights, batteries and a few big butane lighters in it.
When i arrived at home ( 30 miles, backroads) and opened the door, not only was everything in place, but it was EXACTLY in place as I remember it. The new Prodigy brake controller worked great - it and the new brakes made a huge difference.
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Old 08-29-2003, 03:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by uwe
Hi Andy,
Thanks for chiming in and giving advice. I am glad to read that I basically did the right thing, and live to tell about it. Somehow it's much more intimidating to lift up this trailer than lifting up the van, even though the van is heavier. Maybe it's just not as fragile as the trailer....
I agree, lifting the trailer is far more intimidating than any car I have worked on. I was thinking about why that is. I think it's because the trailers are so rare, I'm afraid I'll hurt it if I do something wrong and I'll never get another one. Not like I'm going to snap it in half or something, but I feel like that. I'm far more concerned about hurting it than hurting myself. I know I'm not going to get under it unless I'm 100% sure it's secure. But I'm worried about doing it wrong and hurting the trailer. And it's not like there's anyone around here you can talk to about it in person before you try something, or a handy Chilton's manual on the bench to consult during the procedure.

Or maybe we'll just drive to CA and pay Andy to take care of it all while we go spend the day at Disneyland (the hubby is voting for that option)
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Old 08-30-2003, 08:43 AM   #26
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How can you tell that the axles need replacement.
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Old 08-30-2003, 09:31 AM   #27
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Greg 176.

To determine if your axle or axles are bad, go to our web site, inlandrv.com

Click on "articles."

Click on "Dura-torque axles."

That article describes the Henschen axle, how it is made, what is does, and, how to check yours out.

Looking at an Airstream or a side photo of one, a bad axle or axles can easily be determined by just looking at the wheel area.

All of the wheel should be clearly seen along with at least an inch or two, and with some models, 3 or 4 inches of the tire.

We will post another article, very shortly, along with photos, of a trailer that had two bad axles, and, no wheel balance.

The "FRAME AND AXLE MOUNTING PLATE" are totally separated with a huge crack.

This can happen to any trailer, that has one or both of these problems.

Andy
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Old 08-30-2003, 04:14 PM   #28
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Thanks again Andy,
It looks like I will be replacing my axles on 1961 Overlander International - hope you have them in stock.
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Old 08-30-2003, 07:29 PM   #29
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Reading this thread kind of motivates me to want to do something with my axles; but as I remember I don't think they need changing. I would like to have it sitting higher but it sits evenly and I donít think there is a problem.

My previous A/S definitely needed the fix but I wasn't watching this forum at that time or I probably would have made the adventure!
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Old 09-03-2003, 04:57 PM   #30
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Question Dexter Axles

I am a new Airstreamer with a '69 ,27' Overlander.I've found all of your writings very interesting and informative.It's now my turn to replace the axles on my trailer,and I've found that I can buy Dexter axles,which are the same quality and construction as the Henschens,for about half the price.Under $400.00 per axle with brakes. My only concern is that my axles are originaly 2800# and Dexters only come in 2000# and then jump to 3500#. Andy has advised me to go with 3200# in the henschen's anyway so will another 600#'s be of major concern? Thanks for the advice in advance B.W.W.
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Old 09-03-2003, 05:07 PM   #31
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I just got an email from a local supplier he has a similar axle called posiflex and can supply a 3500# unit with brakes for about $400.
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Old 09-03-2003, 05:10 PM   #32
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Where did you find the Dexter's ????
I'm in need of two axles. $400 sounds better than $800.

BTW You have e-mail.

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Old 09-03-2003, 05:17 PM   #33
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dexter

Garry,Acompany called 6 Robles in Portland Or.
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Old 09-03-2003, 05:25 PM   #34
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I don't think that the higher rating of the Dexter axle is a problem -that's the max weight rating and not more than 10% different.
Will the Dexter axles be a bolt in like the ones from Andy and will you be able to install shocks on them?
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Old 09-03-2003, 05:50 PM   #35
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Yes,the dexters will be exactly like your Henschen and they will weld on schock mounts. 6Rpbles is a large manufacturer of axles for the heavy trucking industry as well as boat,and horse trailers. area code 503-652-9971
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Old 09-03-2003, 06:00 PM   #36
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Sounds great - thanks for info. I'll have to give them a call.
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Old 09-03-2003, 06:08 PM   #37
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Guys,
Careful when ordering the Dexter Axles. I understand that the torsion arms are shorter, and that the shock mount is different.
If the torsion arm is shorter, then the front wheel WILL hit the outrigger in front of the wheel when you use 7x15.00 tires, at the first major bump.
Also, the mounts might be different and the axle tube might be of different size. All these things can be a real bear when trying to do a diy job.
I am not too good with a torch or grinder to make an axle fit. Just a word of caution, before you get too excited about the Dexter axle.
I heard of people making them fit, but never without some fabrication. When I did my research a few month ago, it seemed that the Henschen Dura Torque axle, although expensive, was the only direct, perfect fit replacement that is currently available.
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Old 09-03-2003, 06:24 PM   #38
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Thanks UWE,
Dexter axle has a good web site with drawings and specs on thier axles. I'll have to get under my unit and take some careful measurements and see what might fit. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 09-03-2003, 07:23 PM   #39
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UWE,yes ,what you say may be true of dexter axles,but the company I am talking about is a fab shop,specializing in building axles for specified applications.When you order ,as I understand it,they will ask for all of your demensions and specs,and build to that using Dexter parts. I will be paying their shop a visit this week,and find out for sure about all these concerns. BWW
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Old 09-03-2003, 09:08 PM   #40
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Axle Experts!

Quick question...I recently replaced axles and got them loaded with brakes (12x2). The wires coming off my brakes are GREEN, I notice in the picture above they are white. Are mine the right size magnets for this application? My brakes still do not have as much stopping force as the old ones from 1972! They are definitely broken in and I have adjusted them to the point of light dragging, too. Does anyone have the Dexter model numbers for the right ones so I can check and make sure? I have a 1972 Sovereign GWR 7300# (tandem axles, of course).

Thanks!
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