Axle bearing numbers, 2003 Safari 25

[freud]

The closest canadian A/S dealer is 500 miles away.

Where can I get the numbers for aftermarket axle grease seals and inner and outer axle bearings so that a nearby RV dealer (obviously no A/S) can order them and do the job for me. They agree to do the job but I get worried when I see them trying to find the numbers in their catalogs...

2003 A/S Safari 25 SS(built 06-2002)
Henschen #3000 axles

[markdoane]

Are the axle hubs made by Dexter? If they are 12"×2" electric brakes and have these numbers on the brake drum:
8-201
. . . . then the seals and bearings can be ordered from lowcost trailer
part number BK3-300. These are double lip spring loaded seals and 25580 (inner) and LM67048 (outer) bearings.
Check the number on the front of the drum.
Otherwise, someone else will answer.

[freud]

Thanks for a fast answer, still have to take out a wheel to look at the number on the drum, but it is -10 C outside and windy. However I know I have 12" electric brakes.

How do you explain the steep difference between Dexter price
of about $40+ per wheel when you add the prices of the inner outer and seal ( http://www.dexteraxle.com/hub_components1 )and Low Cost Trailer Supplies price of $14.87 per wheel for a complete kit.

I mean, are you not afraid of getting a low quality product?

[markdoane]

My Dexter axle, ordered through Pioneer Rim and Wheel, had 'made in China' bearings in them. The "Lowcosttrailersupply" replacement bearings are made in China. They seem to run smooth and no visible defects.
They are probably not as good as Timken or SKF matched sets-which your dealer can order using a bearing cross reference. I plan to keep the bearings that came with the axle (1 yr warranty) and monitor temperatures closely. At first replacement, I will switch to Timkens.
I ordered the bearing set because it came with the double lip spring loaded seal, which is much better than the single lip cheapie that came with the axle. I ordered 8 extra seals, which should last me through at least four seasons.
So, to answer your question: I can't justify the added cost for bearings from Dexter. If you plan to put 'em in and forget 'em, I would upgrade to the beast bearings you can buy. If you repack/inspect bearings after each season and monitor temperatures and end-play, you can get by with the cheapies. I always carry spares and the tools to install them

[freud]

Temperature got better.
Sunny 0° C no wind. Took a wheel off. The only number I could find on the drum was HD-1206?

[markdoane]

That's different than the hub I have-the numbers are embossed and about 1/2" high, so you wouldn't have missed them. Maybe someone else can help out?

[freud]

Try this link http://www.reliabletool.com/products/HD-1206H.htm

[markdoane]

OK, now you've got the same problem I went through. There are two grease seals for that hub, SL-213-1 or SL-225-1. The first is 2 1/8", the other is 2 1/4"
By co-incidence, the Dexter hubs also have two seals (same ones), and the only way to know which one you need is to take them off and measure.
Fortunately, you can order a set of each size from lowcost trailer supply (I really like their double lip spring loaded seals and highly recommend their use). They only cost a couple of dollars, so use the ones that fit, and sell the others on ebay.

[freud]

The mystery is unveiling

Try this new URL http://www.reliabletool.com/products/HD-1206.htm

The last URL I sent had an extra h before the .htm. You will like the numbers this time.

Looks like you were right all along. Thanks for the tip on the seal internal diameter.

I also received this from tech@airstream.com:

Below you will find the exploded view for the part numbers you have requested.
CHASSIS
12” BRAKES
3160121 Brake drum, 12”, 6 lug
450659 Inner bearing, #25580
680364 Inner race, #25520
450658 Outer bearing, #LM67048
680365 Outer race, #LM67010
680370-100 Grease seal
3160347 Brake assembly, RH, 12” Dexter
3160348 Brake assembly, LH, 12” Dexter

So I guess Reliable Tools makes drums for Dexter Axle

[freud]

When changing an axle bearing, do we need special tools to remove or insert the bearings races. Are they actually tightly pressed in or what

[markdoane]

Best to use a brass drift if you don't have a bearing press. Make sure the 'landing zone' is very clean so that the race seats fully and firmly against the metal shoulders. Tap each side carefully using a wood block until the race is well started in the bore.
You can buy a set of aluminum collars at any auto parts store which makes the job a little easier.
Just be very careful not to scratch the bearing surface.
Not hard to do, just be patient.