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Old 05-22-2004, 02:02 PM   #1
Rivet Master
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1959 26' Overlander
Putnam , Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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'59 Axle Wear.

So I pulled on of the wheels, cleaned up the bearings and went to the local NAPA store. They can order both sets and the seals. Life is good. However in looking at the axel I fear it may be too late. Opinions sought.
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Old 05-22-2004, 06:20 PM   #2
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1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
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The rust is no worry. Tha's between the bearing surfaces. I would make sure non in in danger of flaking and otherwise forget about it. The machined surface is where the bearing races ride. Outside one is a little rough but not horrible. New bearing on that side and it might have a better fit and prevent that from getting worse.

My only concern is the inner most area is the bearing seal. How deep is that groove? and the one side it looks like a little damage. does that get up to the groove?

There is a repair part called a "speedy sleeve". It's for taking care of that problem. It's just a question if one is made for the size you have.
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
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Old 05-22-2004, 09:45 PM   #3
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1959 24' Tradewind
Atascadero , California
Join Date: May 2002
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I can't quite tell from the pic, but the outside bearing surface area looks a little worn. I guess it depends on your budget. If you can afford it now then replace the axle. markdoane has a thread on this subject. I'm in the process of replacing the brakes and I'm hoping that the new dexter backing plate assemblies will work with the original hadco drums. If you update the axle now you won't have to deal with this problem.
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Old 05-22-2004, 10:52 PM   #4
Rivet Master
LOST , Hawaii
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You do need to clean up the seal surface, emery cloth or crocus cloth. If you don't the new seal is going to self destruct. Use it on the outer bearing surface on the spindle too, gently just to clean it up. Use something like paint thinner to get all the grease off, the 2 machined shoulders are where the races seat and they need to be tight against the shoulders. Clean the inner bore of the race, make sure the spindle and race surfaces are dry when you assemble them. No grease between the spindle and race makes it harder for a loose race to turn. Also make sure the threads are clean and dry.

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Old 05-23-2004, 11:42 AM   #5
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Corona , California
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The photo's by psychpw, clearly shows the reason why a "major brake" job should be done every 10,000 miles or once a year, which ever is first.

Water can and does get into the bearings. The only way you know for sure, is to pull the hubs.

Just because a trailer may not have moved for a year, does not eliminate the need, for a major brake, or at the absolute minimum, an inspection of the spindles and bearings.

Usually, if the spindle is rusted, there may also be some rust on one or more of the rollers in the bearings.

Bearing and brake condition should be number one on everyones PM list.

Andy Rogozinski
Inland RV Center
Corona, CA
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Old 05-23-2004, 02:56 PM   #6
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1959 26' Overlander
Putnam , Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Indeed, this AS sat for 10 to 20 years before I picked it up several weeks ago. Looks like a couple of new axels may be in order as part of the holding tank add on. I want to go with straight axels and get some height for rough roads. Lots of room in the wells.
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