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Old 05-06-2013, 02:07 PM   #1
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1964 Axle Heads Up

I just wanted to give some of you with 1964 trailers a heads up about changing out your axles. I came across an issue today that I thought some others might encounter also...

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The new low profile, axle bracket has 3/4" gap between the tube and the top of the bracket.
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However the original distance is 1/4". The bracket is welded directly onto of the axle tube.
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When you slide it up in there, there is no meat left to drill a new hole. You will have to weld on some 3/16" metal to extend the hanging plates to give some meat to bolt onto. You might also note that the 3000# and larger tube is fatter than the original tube. You must cut out the difference. The jig you see above makes marking it out very easy.

Hope this helps some of you prepare for your swap. A two hour job will turn into a four hour one. You do get the pleasure of welding however...
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:26 PM   #2
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Good info Frank
I am filing it in case I ever get around to working on mine
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:14 PM   #3
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Can you not enlarge the slot for the tube and drill new holes in both the axle mounting bracket and the trailer mounting plate?

Just a question.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:00 PM   #4
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Why not just locate the axle in the notch in the mounting plate and drill new holes higher up? Thru the mounting plate and axle plate. You could use the template you made to locate the new holes so they all match up.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:14 PM   #5
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Twink,

The template is a copy of the bracket on the new axle. How would I move 3/4" up if the space is only 1/4"? I would have to cut out the main frame rail to do that. I also cannot use the original notch because the original axle is 2 3/4 and the new one is 3 1/2". I almost always have to widen the notch doing these swaps and that is no big deal, the spacing above between the notch and the frame rail is however.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:24 PM   #6
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Yes, new holes could be drilled higher since new holes will be drilled anyhow, but then the down return on the mounting bracket gets in the way of the drill, wrench, impact driver.

I thought this info would be appreciated, not questioned.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:30 PM   #7
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Should the top of the template not be up against the bottom of the frame? On our trailers the top of the axle mounting plate rest against the under side of the frame. In fact, on our Excella there are bolts through the holes I see on the axle mounting flange where it rest against the horizontal part of the frame.
What am I missing?
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:04 PM   #8
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...

I thought this info would be appreciated, not questioned.
No good deed goes unpunished...

Where does the slot end up when you line up the holes? As long as it's below the frame rail, you should be able to move the slot, right?
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:05 PM   #9
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The template IS pushed up against the main frame rail in the photo. What am I missing here?
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:14 PM   #10
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Ahhhh, I see what you are saying...
Why not re drill the axles? They are the disposable part, modify them!
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:17 PM   #11
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Sorry Frank.

The line above the template in the photo looks like the 90 degree bend in the frame rail. It must have been formed by the flange on the old axle.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:20 PM   #12
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on any other year, the mounting plate is a full 1 1/2, if not 2" taller. 1964 is a very odd year. I thought this would be informative to those owners. I feel like I am really being second guessed here and hope this thread will be taken down. No wonder so many commercial vendors who do this work day in and day out have stopped posting.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:36 PM   #13
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on any other year, the mounting plate is a full 1 1/2, if not 2" taller. 1964 is a very odd year. I thought this would be informative to those owners. I feel like I am really being second guessed here and hope this thread will be taken down. No wonder so many commercial vendors who do this work day in and day out have stopped posting.

I think these are just normal questions from folks trying to understand the issue; thanks for being patient and responding. This info is really useful and as a 64 owner who HAD this same issue recently, I appreciate seeing the pics and discussion. It would have helped me immensely a few months ago to understand the issue and possible resolutions.
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Old 05-07-2013, 06:49 PM   #14
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on any other year, the mounting plate is a full 1 1/2, if not 2" taller. 1964 is a very odd year. I thought this would be informative to those owners. I feel like I am really being second guessed here and hope this thread will be taken down. No wonder so many commercial vendors who do this work day in and day out have stopped posting.
The mans absolutely 100% right. Very little metal remains below the holes in the frame mounting plate when you re bore to accept the new axle mounting plate, and if you order the "high profile" axle plate you're outta luck. Would have been nice to read this a few years ago before I replaced the X in my 1964 Safari. Don't take the thread down, may save somebody some heartburn!
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:27 PM   #15
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Frank can you weld more stock below the frame so you will have enough material to drill your holes through? Just curious, hoping you find a solution. BTW makes me worry because I will soon be adding a torsion axle to an old 54 FC frame which is only 3" high......and will need some type of plate to weld / bolt the axle to... Good luck, and please post your solution.
Thanks,
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:44 AM   #16
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on any other year, the mounting plate is a full 1 1/2, if not 2" taller. 1964 is a very odd year. I thought this would be informative to those owners. I feel like I am really being second guessed here and hope this thread will be taken down. No wonder so many commercial vendors who do this work day in and day out have stopped posting.
Frank.

The bracket on the torsion axles was changed for the 1969 models.

From 1961 to the 1968 trailers, the axle mounting plate, the plate welded to the outside of the chassis, is indeed very short in height that extends below the actual frame.

Many years ago, I got together with Henschen and the engineers at Airstream, to work out a "fix", so that the newer mounting plates can easily be used.

The answer was to drill 3 1/2 inch holes in the axle mounting bracket and through the axle mounting plate, and install grade "8" 1/2 inch bolts. We have offered that hardware kit for several years and so far, it has answered the question.

The next seemingly new obstacle wasthe increase in size of the square tube. Generally speaking, the square cut out must be enlarged. It's increase in size has nothing to do with any "alignment" issues, just so the axle can be raised in place.

The alignment for the new installation, is to make sure that the rear hole in the axle mounting bracket lines up exactly vertical with the rear hole in the axle mounting plate.

Drill the 3 new holes, install the hardware, and that side is done. Repeat the same for the other side as well.

Installing a replacement torsion axle when the original was welded in place, requires a little measuring to make sure that both axle mounting bracket dimensions are exactly the same from the leading edge of the bracket, to the center of the jack post on the A frame.

Then, the replacement can be welded into place the same way as the original axle.

Dexter claims that the welding method will damage the rubber rods. We checked the temperature rise with an infra red gun, and found that indeed, the temperature of the area did rise.

Yes, the temperature did rise, to a whopping 16 degrees F.

The same rise in temperature happens when the shock brackets are installed.

Holy smokes, does that mean if the trailer is towed in the heat of the summer in Arizona, that the rubber rods go bad????

I don't think so, and I also disagree with the implied scare tactics.

Andy
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:14 PM   #17
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I truly appreciate this thread. Please do not take it down. I just dropped the old axle from my '64 Safari and only noticed the new axle doesn't bolt right up when I tried to do so. I didn't realize these weren't direct replacements. I just sent an e-mail to Andy asking if I had the right axle, but now that I've read this, I see I probably do. It just needs a little modification. I just wish I had been told that up front. Anyway, please don't take all the questions from us armature mechanics the wrong way. We trust you, but we're not all that quick to understand.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:31 PM   #18
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Ok, I went out to start doing the widening of the axle hole, etc., when I noticed that the shock bracket on the new axle is mounted above the axle whereas in my original, it's mounted above the spindle. Is this another change with the new axles? It really doesn't look like it will do much of anything being mounted just above the axle. I'm wondering again if I got the right axle. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm kind of dead in the water until I know I have the right one.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:33 PM   #19
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Ok, I went out to start doing the widening of the axle hole, etc., when I noticed that the shock bracket on the new axle is mounted above the axle whereas in my original, it's mounted above the spindle. Is this another change with the new axles? It really doesn't look like it will do much of anything being mounted just above the axle. I'm wondering again if I got the right axle. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm kind of dead in the water until I know I have the right one.
The axle mounted shock bracket as well as the frame bracket was changed in the mid 68 models.

All you need to do is cut the vertical bracket in half, overlap it, and weld it into place.

The maximum distance then between the 2 studs should not exceed 14 1/2 inches.

Andy
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:21 PM   #20
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64 axle

Hey Frank.

I can assure you and guarantee your info was not only informative but extremely useful. Why, cause a newbie like me is just getting ready to purchase a 64 safari, tomorrow. It has an original axle and I wouldn't be surprised at all if I need to replace it. Sooooooooo, need I say more, I think not.

Thank you kindly for not bailing on the post and continuing to respond. I for one am grateful. Likely just saved myself allot or time, scalded knuckles, screaming voices from my garage and some cash. Even if I have to have it done by someone else I will know how it's done properly.

Nuff said.

Thanks

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