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Old 06-01-2012, 12:45 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
2010 27' FB Classic
N/A , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,809
Dehumifier/separate power cord

I purchased a dehimidifier for my trailer and plan to use it while the trailer is in stroage.
Dehumidifier / 25 pints dehumidification capacity / Energy Star / Digital control / 115v power / 4.5 amps / 490 watts
The Friedrich D25ANP Dehumidifier controls humidity in small- to medium-sized spaces.

I don't need to keep my main power 30amp on in the trailer while it's in storage. And only want electric power to run a fan, dehimidifier, or portable heater depending on the season it's in storage.
I plan to run a seperate power cord from my storage area power outlet thru the skin on the trailer and into the interior of the trailer.
I have 2 choices, either go thru the floor under/behind a cabinet or, thru an existing break in the skin like the water heater door, furnace, fridge, etc.
I think I found the perfect solution. My trailer has an outside shower that is housed behind a plastic door and enclosed on the backside with a plastic shell. I can gain access to the backside under the wardrobe closet.
There is enough room to drill a hole to run the cord thru. The extra cord can be stored under the wardrobe floor with the water pump.
When the cord is not used I can close the outside door for the shower and no one will know it's there.
I purchased a 25 ft. 12 guage/15 amp extention cord. I'll cut it to the sizes I need and add new HD recepticals/plugs as needed to make this all work.
When looking into the showerbox from outside will be a male plug. From the shore outlet to that plug I'll make a 10' extention cord.,and the rest will be inside the trailer stored under the wardrobe till needed.
I'll be doing this next week unless someone on here has a better idea.
I'm all ears! And always ready to listen to a better or different way to achieve the same goal.
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:43 PM   #2
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I did something similar to run a dehumidifier and an additional 1500 watt heater. No drilling involved in my Classic. I got a 12ga 50' extension cord and keep it coiled in the lower curved skin water access compartment. I was able to loosen the compartment and run the cord up through the hole where the plumbing lines come in under the bath sink. From there the cord runs behind and under the fridge and under the dinette seat. I emerges at the corner of the seat and the wall, at the floor. I'll post pics later, in case you're interested.

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Old 06-01-2012, 01:58 PM   #3
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1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
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I don't understand why you just don't leave the trailer plugged in as normal, and shut the converter/charger off. It is the only thing that draws power when plugged in. Then you can use the normal outlets and not bother with all the special cords, holes etc. What am I missing here?
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:46 PM   #4
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dznf0g,
Yes, that's what I'm trying to achieve. Thanks for the pix. Looks like I need to look around a little more and find a way around drilling. I have a different layout than you, so I need to poke around a little more. Glad you found the solution, looks like a slick way to do it.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba View Post
I don't understand why you just don't leave the trailer plugged in as normal, and shut the converter/charger off. It is the only thing that draws power when plugged in. Then you can use the normal outlets and not bother with all the special cords, holes etc. What am I missing here?


I am under the impression that all electric goes thru the converter wether the switch is on store or not.. I don't want it to run 24/7. I don't know that much about it so you may be on to something.
I'll have to try what you said, and go from there. Simple enough to do. I'll try your suggestion over the weekend.
Thanks!
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Old 06-01-2012, 03:01 PM   #6
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My converter plugs into a wall outlet. Unplug it and it is inop.
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Old 06-01-2012, 03:03 PM   #7
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Bluto,

This dehumidifier consumes a lot less power, is pretty small, and works well. Another forum member got a defective one, but mine is fine.

NewAir AD-250 25 Pint Portable Room Dehumidifier With Automatic Shut-Off - FREE GROUND SHIPPING!
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Old 06-01-2012, 03:37 PM   #8
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If you set the dehumidifier in the shower you can run it into the shower drain and not have to empty pans.
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Old 06-01-2012, 03:43 PM   #9
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I use a mini one that keeps the humidity level down to 60-65. Instead of going thru all that trouble, why, not just use the breaker box inside to turn all off except one?
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:28 PM   #10
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For me it's not about the storage thing, It's a poor mans 50 Amp (OK, 45amp) service.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:42 AM   #11
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A bunch of new things for me to think about and try.
Thanks everyone!
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:09 AM   #12
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Yes, either unplug the converter/charger, or turn it's circuit breaker off, or put a switch on it to shut the 120 volt power off. The 12 volt side is totally independent of the 120 volt side.

If you have a modern 3 stage converter/charger such as the PD 9245, once the battery is fully charged it takes virtually no power, like 4 watts I think I have measured. Many people do not shut those off at all and leave them on 24/7. However as I may be gone for months at a time from my RV's, I do not like to have anything at all in operation, and do shut mine down.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:10 AM   #13
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Update:
I actually ended up running the new cable thru the outside shower panel and into the area under the clothes wardrobe as I originally thought of doing.
I did use the idea of putting the dehimidifier in the shower stall and have it draining into the gray water tank via the shower drain. Since I'm doing that I'll probably add a little Clorox solution to the gray tank and drian it once in a while so I don't create problem in there.
All is working fine and I set the unit at 60 which seems to be a good humidity level for now.
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