Where does the AC go?

[LOREN SILVA]

I have a 1972 argosy 26 ft that has never had roof air.
I took it to my local rv dealer for a new ac, thinking it would be installed in the center vent.
They said there was no bracing or wiring there.
Does anyone know if airstream had another area for mounting it?
It's hard to believe no provision was made for roof air.
Thanks,
loren

[65will]

I have a 69 tradewind. I called Airstream with the vin#, model. and they gave me the location.

[JFScheck]

Sometimes the obvious answer is never expected, great ideal - give the Mothership a call, fax or letter....

AIRSTREAM, INC. • 419 West Pike Street, P.O. Box 629
Jackson Center, Ohio 45334-0629
Phone: 937-596-6111 • FAX: 937-596-6539

[cwf]

Put my AC on ceiling




The stuff dangling from ceiling are power and condensate tubing.

They were secured to ceiling

[azflycaster]

Check with Airstream as sated earlier. I would bet that the the wires and drain tube are installed. The bracing will need to be added.

[cdmagda]

When you install your new AC, try to put the drip tube in the wall cavity. I used a graphite rod for running phone line from Home Depot. Run it down a rib if possible, it makes it easier to get passed through the insulation. The bottom wall panel must be removed enough to access the C channel, so you can drill a hole through it for the tubing to pass. Once through, run it out through the belly pan.

[robwok]

I know what you're asking. I am doing the same thing myself. The Airstream factory will tell you a measurement from the front bow. You need to be sitting on top of your airstream, and hook your tape over the edge of the first sheet of aluminum that is perpendicular to you in front. Meaning, the end caps are several pieces, that stretch towards the hitch, but they go under a pice that wraps over the top. Measure from that lip back to the measurement they gave you. That's going to be the center of your 14" cut out. I used a sharpie to make a perfectly centered 14" square. Then, I ran the center of that down the side visually and put a sharpie mark on the window. I went inside the trailer to make sure that it wasn't in the way of anything inside. You've got a little wiggle room front to back on the roof, but you need to make sure you don't have any rivets within your 14" cutout, and actually 1.5" beyond your 14" cutout. If all that's clear, then you can use a drill bit and drill all the way through to the inside. I put a drill bit just inside my 14" square, and drilled through to the inside. Then I measured inside to make sure it was square and equadistant from everything inside before marking those.

Be careful on cutting that aluminum inside and out. you will have your AC wires all bundled up there between the skins and you don't want to cut those or your drain tube (mine was too old for a drain tube, so I have to route one)

[robwok]

Originally Posted by cdmagda

When you install your new AC, try to put the drip tube in the wall cavity. I used a graphite rod for running phone line from Home Depot. Run it down a rib if possible, it makes it easier to get passed through the insulation. The bottom wall panel must be removed enough to access the C channel, so you can drill a hole through it for the tubing to pass. Once through, run it out through the belly pan.

I really wanted to do this on mine to prevent any kinks, but I have a quilted side that requires removing a lot of material. The other option is to run it into your upper cabinets, horizontal, then down throug the inside of a closet. Not a straight shot, and not the best, but easier than "doing it right".

[cdmagda]

Originally Posted by robwok

I really wanted to do this on mine to prevent any kinks, but I have a quilted side that requires removing a lot of material. The other option is to run it into your upper cabinets, horizontal, then down throug the inside of a closet. Not a straight shot, and not the best, but easier than "doing it right".

I admit that my '55 has aluminum on the interior as well, and relatively easy to access, just removed enough rivets to pull skin and expose C channel.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by LOREN SILVA

I have a 1972 argosy 26 ft that has never had roof air.
I took it to my local rv dealer for a new ac, thinking it would be installed in the center vent.
They said there was no bracing or wiring there.
Does anyone know if airstream had another area for mounting it?
It's hard to believe no provision was made for roof air.
Thanks,
loren

Never install an AC in a roof vent on an Airstream or Argosy trailer.

The wires and drain tube are aleady in the center of the roof.

The dimensions are inches back, from "station zero". Station zero starts at the front edge of the awning rail.

Measure back 113 inches from station zero.

The thermostat wires are also in the same place.

I do not have the location of those wires for the wall thermostat.

Andy

[LOREN SILVA]

Dear Andy,

Thanks for your help on my ac location. Before I received your reply, I
followed another members suggestion and called airstream. I didn't have my vin available, but gave the tech my year model, layout, and length and he told me to measure 93 inches back from the first seam on the front top and this would be the center of the 14 inch cutout.
This differs from your advise and I feel you have had much more experience with it. What do you think?
Also, is there bracing for the ac built in or will I have to do it myself?
Sure wish I could bring it to you, but Arkansas is a little too far.
Again, thanks for your support and advice and I'll look forward to hearing from you.
Sincerely,
Loren

[LOREN SILVA]

Did you find the necessary bracing or did you have to add it?
Thanks,
Loren

[curioscat]

We have a 1998 Safari Airstream with a ceiling mounted air conditioner. Does anyone know where the drain tubes drain to? We've been trying to eliminate mildew smell from visible mould stains and have been successful but the smell still lingers. Just wondering about the possibility of the drain tubes running somewhere they shouldn't. Thanks

[Aage]

On a reasonably humid day, if the drain tube is operational (and you have the AC running), you should see water dripping out from near one of the tires.

On my '74, it comes out on the street side, IIRC.

[robwok]

Loren:

When you get on top of your trailer, hook your tape measure on that first seam and go back. The center of the 14" hole should be just a little forward of the distance between your vents. You should not have any rivets within that 14" space. If you do, then you know you're in the wrong spot. You can't install the AC where there is a structual rib, it has to go between them. Mark that, then mark it down the side if you have a window, then go inside and make sure that the placement inside makes sense.

[wncrasher]

How about something like this instead? Build a cabinet around it and use as a tabletop or something. Keeps the weight down low.

http://www.thorindustries.com/script.../get.php?id=50

[robwok]

Originally Posted by wncrasher

How about something like this instead? Build a cabinet around it and use as a tabletop or something. Keeps the weight down low.

http://www.thorindustries.com/script.../get.php?id=50

Several folks have looked at these, and I considered a mini split system myself due to Seer rating and noise. However, the benefit of a roof top unit is that it doesn't take up room in a trailer where space is a premium. Additionally, from an efficiency standpoint, you're starting cold area at the ceiling. It falls from there. If you put your ac in the floor, your head is hot and your feet are cold, which feels uncomfortable. However, the Thor system you show looks like a forced air ducted system, so you could use PVC pipe to get it up into the ceiling or near it.

I struggled for a long time before I decided to put a unit up top. I was going to try the old window unit in either the front or back window, but in the end didn't want one end of the trailer freezing, and the other not, and have to keep moving a portable around.

[LOREN SILVA]

Thanks for your input, i really appreciate it.
As for the floor model ac, i tried it with a 12,000 btu and put it in the corner by the table it was out of the for way the most part, but was unable to cool the rest of the trailer.
As you said, in my opinion, the roof air is the best choice.
Cold air cools the hot air as it falls.
Thanks,
loren

[LOREN SILVA]

Thanks for your help. I'll let you know how it goes.
Loren

[curioscat]

Thanks to Aage we found the drain tube as specified on the driver side off the Safari. Cool! Thanks again!