Transporting in sub zero temperatures

[RetiredMike]

I'm new so be kind.....😊
I think my Airstream's furnace heats the holding tanks when it's on. Is that correct? Does anyone know how cold the furnace is capable of keeping the tanks from freezing?
During transport the propane should be turned off? Correct? If so what, if anything, keeps the tanks from freezing?
Thank you for any information.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by RetiredMike

I'm new so be kind.....��
I think my Airstream's furnace heats the holding tanks when it's on. Is that correct? Does anyone know how cold the furnace is capable of keeping the tanks from freezing?
During transport the propane should be turned off? Correct? If so what, if anything, keeps the tanks from freezing?
Thank you for any information.

Welcome.
First...helpful if you share year/model/size. Best way is to update your personal profile so that will appear on your posts under your name. Then we will be better be able to help.
As for your question...propane needs to be on for your furnace to operate. And your refrigerator (set it to "auto".) This leads to a hugely contentious issue in the community...the battle over running with propane on or not. It seems the majority do, to keep their food cold in hot weather. Or, to keep things warm in the winter. The other camp swears it's dangerous and you'll blow up en route. You'll need to choose where you land on that issue.

If your trailer is a more modern model, the furnace will blow warm air into the underbelly to keep the tanks from freezing. I have driven in below zero temps with the heat set to 55---and it's stayed there. The underbelly, probably colder...drafts, less insulation, etc. The other 'gotcha' is...the dump valves freezing, they are exposed. And the exterior shower hose/controls freezing...they are exposed under that little plastic cover.

As a general recommendation, if REALLY cold...like single digits or less...avoid traveling unless the lines have been blown out with compressed air, and tanks emptied...winterized, if you will.

But if you MUST...at least empty your black and grey tanks if you can. Remove the outside shower hose and shower head and store in the trailer, and stuff a small towel into that compartment to insulate the control valve a little better. And make SURE you turn off the water pump OFF...a good practice in any weather (faucets are famous for bumping open during travel, the stories are legend), but especially in cold weather, if something freezes and breaks, you'll start pumping water out through the break.
And stay vigilant. If your towing a 'wet' (non-winterized) trailer in freezing weather, and the heater fails, or you run out of propane--you will likely experience some very unfortunate results.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Assuming we are talking about zero F and not zero C ( US runs on F), you are 32 degrees (F) below freezing when you hit zero. Running down the road at that kind of temperature is going to freeze things up. The furnace or heater pads simply aren't going to handle that kind of temperature. The only alternative is to winterize the trailer.

Bob

[RetiredMike]

Thank you for the helpful information and insight into transporting in freezing weather. I appreciate your taking the time to help me better understand.

[OTRA15]

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the forum!

Once you learn to winterize your AS, it will become quick and easy. Until you know the ropes, it is better to err on the side of caution. As pcskier already said, some unfortunate damage can occur, and this damage is often buried deep. [as in expensive to fix!]

Peter

PS — Echoing earlier comment to identify your AS, which you can do by going to the User CP tab at top left, to add this info below your name to the left. The models vary widely, and some handle cold better than others.

PS2 — Winterizing threads to check:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...rize-7222.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f462...aq-103756.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458/

[Wetfeet]

Mike,

We pulled our FC20 from Wyoming to Arizona once in January and we drove for hours in -20 degree F weather, and had no problems. The lines were winterized with pink stuff, but I had filled the freshwater tank, so I travelled with the fresh water tank heater on. The black and gray tanks were empty. The frig was on, and we also ran with the furnace on and set to about 40-45 degrees. The furnace kept the inside of the trailer above freezing.

On some Airstreams the furnace sends some warm air down around the tanks. On others you must use the tank heaters.

You do not have to turn off the propane to travel, although it’s a good idea to turn off the furnace when you stop at a gas station. However, I never turn the frig off, even when filling up.

[Kyoshi]

Last November, we deer hunted in minus stupid weather (-10c) ( single digits at least F degrees) and the heat was on all the time. nothing froze up and dumped tanks at sewage plant as usual, no problems.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by Kyoshi

Last November, we deer hunted in minus stupid weather (-10c) ( single digits at least F degrees) and the heat was on all the time. nothing froze up and dumped tanks at sewage plant as usual, no problems.

Hi

Most of the "stuff" that will freeze is low on the trailer or under it. When it gets cold, you *can* have an air pocket under the trailer that is a bit warmer than the surrounding air. Get a good wind going and that may or may not cool down as well. A lot depends on the local terrain and wind direction.

Unfortunately when transporting the trailer, that air pocket is not going to be there. Pulling the trailer down the road is actually more challenging temperature wise than having it sit in the campground.

On the newer trailers, most of the plumbing is plastic. The people who make it claim it will survive freezing. It's certainly done so for me in home applications. The external points that are vulnerable are mostly the odd stuff (back flow valves, outdoor shower valves, some drain valves....)

Lots of variables ....

Bob