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Old 03-16-2016, 10:33 PM   #1
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1976 Argosy 26
diamond bar , California
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 94
Suburban NT32 C age by serial number?

I purchased 78 Argosy. More work than I thought but I'm committed...or should be. I just replaced all copper lines because they burst do to freezing. New regulator, check valve, drain valves, pump, shower valve, faucets and water heater.

The next order of business is the propane system. I tested the stove and water heater and they worked fine but the furnace would not light.

Existing Suburban NT32 C with serial number 0570857. I don't think they make the 32 any more but it looks like it has not been used much. Is there a way to find out if it is the original or replaced at some point?

Another question and I have tried to search is, does it need 12v power just to light the pilot? I understand the power and fan must come on to activate the sail switch which opens the gas valve to the burner. But just for the pilot?

Testing for leaks if it runs. Close all the doors/windows and install a carbon monoxide tester or two? Is this method acceptable?

In reading some of the threads...Its just safer to replace it. Yes, I'm sure of that and if I need to remove it and open it up to check for rust and pin holes, I may as well replace it.
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:01 AM   #2
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1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
If it is a pilot light model, it is most likely original, that is 40 years old. Those Suburbans were also subject to safety recalls. No recall parts are available now.

Your life is worth a new furnace. I cannot recommend anything but replacement.
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:18 AM   #3
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1976 Argosy 26
diamond bar , California
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Thanks for the reply. My life may be < a new furnace, my wife's may = a new furnace but our kid....priceless. (Hoping the wife doesn't read this, LOL).

What is the replacement? NT30 or the NT34? Will it still work with the NT32 existing vents out the side?
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:45 AM   #4
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1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
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The NT 30 will be fine in capacity. In general, the vent system will be the same or similar but may require you to build a platform to get the new (generally slightly smaller) furnace to fit where the existing vent holes are now.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:23 PM   #5
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1976 Argosy 26
diamond bar , California
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idroba,

Thanks for your replies. First of all, I probably would not be able to sleep knowing the furnace could kill. If anyone got ill or worse, I would never forgive myself. I have been researching a replacement and I will get the NT30.

Now, I may change the kitchen counter top and so on.

I twisted the top on my can of worms......worms are pushing out.....to late to close.

I forgot I ordered a Progressive dynamics PD9260C, just arrived. I'm leaving the 110v alone but redoing the 12v. Well that's the plan for now.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:59 PM   #6
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1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
The new PD converter/charger you have ordered and now received is a good one, maybe even overkill for your needs. You may need a new fuse box or panel also, I forget what Argosy put in your rig.

Changing the countertops is always a good project too, it updates the color and texture of the original. And you can take the refrigerator panel off also, and have it match the color of the countertop. Then while you are at it, maybe a new sink, and faucet.

And on and on and on.....LOL.
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:55 PM   #7
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1976 Argosy 26
diamond bar , California
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Posts: 94
Just an update on progress. I allocated my Saturday to remove the NT32 but I was done in less than an hour.

78 26' Argosy. Remove oven, remove the 4 screws that attach it to the floor, remove the two middle (long) screws on the exterior vent. Disconnected the electrical, push to the side to gain access to the gas connection. Remove furnace.

Tracking number shows delivery on Wed.

Looking for a counter top. The Home Depot has premade tops but with some online research they seem to be a bit narrow. I really don't want to replace the cabinets because they are in acceptable shape. I guess I will keep looking.

The way the cabinets are built surprise me. Wow! I don't think you could make it any less structurally.
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:29 PM   #8
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1986 31' Sovereign
Miami , Florida
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The cabinet build is all about saving weight and, with the countertop attached is not as flimsy as it looks.

I know you are thinking new countertop but I thought I'd suggest you consider doing what we did; we resurfaced all the horizontal surfaces with Marmoleum sheet flooring. Been a year and it still looks great and cleans up with a damp sponge. The only thing you really have to worry about is setting a hot pan down on it.

Mike
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:39 AM   #9
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1976 Argosy 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
The cabinet build is all about saving weight and, with the countertop attached is not as flimsy as it looks.

I know you are thinking new countertop but I thought I'd suggest you consider doing what we did; we resurfaced all the horizontal surfaces with Marmoleum sheet flooring. Been a year and it still looks great and cleans up with a damp sponge. The only thing you really have to worry about is setting a hot pan down on it.

Mike
I will check into it. My top has a back splash and a curved radius at the front edge. Will the sheet flooring follow the contour of the rolled edge?

Thanks
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 909kenu View Post
I will check into it. My top has a back splash and a curved radius at the front edge. Will the sheet flooring follow the contour of the rolled edge?

Thanks
If your countertop has a continuous backsplash and a curved front edge it is not the original Argosy one to begin with. The original ones had a separate square edge backsplash and a front which was square and trimmed with a metal edging. My '74 Argosy had already had the countertop replaced with a pre made Home Depot type replacement when I bought it. When I wanted to change the sink with a different size one, I simply got a new piece of HD countertop with laminate that I liked and replaced the replacement. It is made of particleboard and is heavy, vs. the original 1/2" plywood counter, but there is not a lot of it, so the additional weight is minor.

The cabinets are very lightweight, and were built on/into the trailer at the factory, so have many different attachment points and interior parts. The workers sort of built them custom for each unit, I suspect.

The Argosy was the experimental line. Airstream used them to try out ideas and materials. Thus they are often different from one another, and from Airstreams of the same era. The factory workers (at least in Ohio) were in a different building from what I understand, and may not have been as skilled and well trained as the Airstream folks.

So, you never know what you might find in an Argosy, factory or what a previous owner has done.
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:42 AM   #11
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1976 29' Ambassador
Fitchburg , Wisconsin
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In our '76 Ambassador the counter is 30" wide and most preformed counters are made for 24" base cabinets. Our counter has a separate flat 3"x1" approximate back splash with a vinyl bead between the pieces.

Dennis
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:57 AM   #12
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1976 Argosy 26
Fair Oaks , California
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On the subject of countertop, my 76 Argosy 26 also had the same style as yours. I was having the same challenge as you , finding that the Home Depot counter tops were more narrow than the original Argosy. After looking around for solutions and not wanting to have a custom made top , I recalled a prior post on the subject. The solution was to cut back the cabinet face where magazine rack is by the door . That allows the cabinet to move closer to the wall and you can then use in stock counter tops. The drain plumbing may need some slight mods . Can post pics if needed .
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:39 AM   #13
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1976 Argosy 26
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The counter top seems to be 3/4 plywood with a orange color plastic laminate, not sure if it is original or not. I can picture reducing the size of the cabinet to fit the prefabbed top. Did you need to reinforce the new top to support the weight of the cooktop/oven? The prefabbed top is made of particle board and is thinner. This seems like a good option for me. If you have pictures that would be great.
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Old 03-20-2016, 12:30 PM   #14
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I cut off the rounded front edge and edged it with aluminum "diner style' extruded edging. The back splash on mine is a separate piece so I painted it a complementary color.

Mike
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Old 03-20-2016, 12:49 PM   #15
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1976 Argosy 26
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Mine was the lovely green laminate . No reinforcement needed. The backsplash does not hug the wall due to its curved nature so there is a small gap at the edge. While I was modifying the cabinet , I added a 110 volt outlet under the sink and installed a small microwave oven on the shelf. Not terribly convenient but not a lot of options. I installed a new furnace also and used 2x4 lumber to elevate it to proper height. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:28 PM   #16
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1976 Argosy 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Argosy Heir View Post
Mine was the lovely green laminate . No reinforcement needed. The backsplash does not hug the wall due to its curved nature so there is a small gap at the edge. While I was modifying the cabinet , I added a 110 volt outlet under the sink and installed a small microwave oven on the shelf. Not terribly convenient but not a lot of options. I installed a new furnace also and used 2x4 lumber to elevate it to proper height. Hope this helps.
Thank you! I believe this is the best solution for me. Great tip for the microwave in that space, I agree very limited space. I may keep the sink but new faucet for sure.

I was told in a previous post that the new furnace would need shimming as the new one is smaller. I know each install is a bit different but at least it gives me a idea of the amount of shimming.

In your picture, the fold out shelf? I have the existing orange plastic lam top on mine. I was thinking of using the cut out portion of the new top for the oven or sink for that shelf. Is yours a butcher block? Cutting board?
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:19 PM   #17
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1976 Argosy 26
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My sink is original as well. Cleaned up nicely. The faucet is a pull out spray type I bought at Costco . Yes , that is a cutting board. The old table was way too heavy. Bought the hinges at an RV supply and painted them a copper shade to better match. You can PM me if you have any more questions and I can provide more details .
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:30 PM   #18
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1976 Argosy 26
diamond bar , California
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Argosy Heir, I PM'd you but the forum will not let me send you my email address. Error message, new members are not allowed to send links until they are trusted members.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:41 PM   #19
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1976 Argosy 26
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We were all new members at one time ....
Sent you a PM.
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:11 PM   #20
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1976 Argosy 26
diamond bar , California
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Thanks to everyones input my new Suburban NT 30 is in. I elevated the unit off the floor to match existing vent holes. New copper K flaired to meet new gas location.

I also cut down my existing cabinetry. To accept the Home Depot countertop was really simple. I actually cut only one side about an inch and the other side of the cabinet had a lot a room to move back. It's a close fit for the furnace but worked out well.

Again many thanks
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