Visit our Popular Forums

loudruff · 02-03-2005, 10:40 AM

Of course as with all of the advice that is given on the forum pages, any use of said advice is at your own liability. That said, you may get away with finding someone with welding experience on iron. Such as exhaust headers. Welding cast iron can be a delicate process, but is do-able, as long as the part is allowed to cool slowly. If you are trying this yourself I have been successful by heating parts in the gas cooking grill, removing and welding that part and then returning it to the grill with the lid on so that it cools slowly.
After welding I would bench test it again to be sure that you are satisfied with the performance before you reinstall it. If you don't want to take the welding route, there a bunch of salvage yards because this furnace was used in many SOBs. I shouldn't be hard to find.
BTW, my furnace manual calls that rod or screw the main burner air adjustment rod.
Good luck!
Larry

ALANSD · 02-03-2005, 11:25 AM

thanks- I am no welder, so i did not know that cast iron was so tough to weld on. I hope to find another burner.

loudruff · 02-03-2005, 11:31 AM

You need special welding rod for doing the job on cast iron.
You can search the web for RV salvage yards. There are lots in Indiana.

ALANSD · 02-04-2005, 09:53 AM

after speaking with a few surplus dealers, it seems I can use my old log if I fill up the few slots with metal ( washers and jb weld was recommended) since the log has so many usable slots it should be ok according to them. Unless I find one I will try this. If I blow myself up my wife will be selling the 280

ALANSD · 02-06-2005, 02:21 PM

I reinstalled the furnace today, which was a chore. Getting it into the case was tough enough, but squeezing it back into the space under my kitchen cabinet was a big challenge. Took awhile to get it all the way in there and line it up with the outside vents. Once I did all that and reconnected evertything it fired right up, burned almost a perfect blue flame and put out plenty of heat.
Now a question--- when I checked for leaks there is a very small leak where the brass elbow joint goes into the furnace. If I tighten it one more turn I can't get the outside gas line onto the elbow, as its too close to the cabinet. I figure I can buy a slightly longer elbow, so it will extend out a bit more and solve that problem, but the question is do you use teflon tape on these threads? I use it for plumbing of course, but not sure if its correct for the gas lines. Thanks for all the support, I am happy to report the job 95% done.

loudruff · 02-06-2005, 04:17 PM

I teflon all threaded gas connections except flare and compression ring type connections. Especially dissimilar metals (iron/brass). It may be possible by placing a screwdriver between the furnace case and the elbow to gain a little clearance by bowing or bending the case slightly.

ALANSD · 02-07-2005, 06:55 AM

I tried the case bending..I think if I get a new fitting with a bit more length it will be easier to thread. I will try using the tape ..carefully.

thenewkid64 · 02-07-2005, 07:46 AM

Alan,

There is a special yellow Teflon tape for gas fittings, It is thicker than the normal white stuff. I have found it in the section where connection lines for gas appliances are.

ALANSD · 02-07-2005, 12:09 PM

thanks! I will check that out.

albert · 07-06-2005, 09:31 PM

But now i want to replace it with a new one. it was a NT 30, but i dont want to use ducts if I can help it, but my AS is a 29', so does anyone have any recommendations of brands/models that I should replace it with? I am also into saving space under the stove, but dont have to. I dont know if I should go catalytic? Please offer your advise, I'm all ears!

loudruff · 07-06-2005, 11:06 PM

Albert,
I've seen a few catalytic heaters and they used a small stand alone fan to distribute the heat to the back of their coaches. If you are interested in a replacement you might try Airxcel, Inc. They are exclusive manufacturers of Suburban
676 Broadway St.
Dayton, TN 37321
423-775-2131

http://rvcomfort.com/

Larry

albert · 07-07-2005, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loudruff

Albert,
I've seen a few catalytic heaters and they used a small stand alone fan to distribute the heat to the back of their coaches. If you are interested in a replacement you might try Airxcel, Inc. They are exclusive manufacturers of Suburban
676 Broadway St.
Dayton, TN 37321
423-775-2131

http://rvcomfort.com/

Larry

Thanks Ruff, I will look into that unit. Are you saying that the fan is built into the heater, or do people put an additional fan near it to blow warm air to the back?
thanks

thenewkid64 · 07-07-2005, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

But now i want to replace it with a new one. it was a NT 30, but i dont want to use ducts if I can help it, but my AS is a 29', so does anyone have any recommendations of brands/models that I should replace it with? I am also into saving space under the stove, but dont have to. I dont know if I should go catalytic? Please offer your advise, I'm all ears!

The way you plan to use the trailer is IMHO the determining factor in th decision to go catylic or ducted furnace.

The NT series furnaces all come in the same size box, so a smaller one will not necessarily save space. The ducting does one other thing that you may or may not be aware of. It feeds heat to the holding and fresh water tanks. If you are planning on using the coach in weather that would be freezing then you will want a ducted furnace to allow you to utilize the bath functions of the coach.

A catylic will heat the coach well depending on size of the heater and outdoor temps, but there is normally no fan associated with it. It is a radiant heater. If you want the warm air to be distributed you will need to employ a fan. I will admit a small 12 VDC fan will not have the draw of a furnace while boondocking, the fact that a vent needs to be open for the exhaust from the catylic can be at times an issue.

loudruff · 07-07-2005, 10:25 AM

Brett's comment about the fan is correct. The fan is a separate component and not a part of the catalytic heater. Ventilation is a concern. I have read that opening a window, preferably not the one over the water heater vent, and opening a roof vent at the other end of the trailer provides needed ventilation and some heat distribution by convection.

You also need to think about adding a carbon monoxide detector to your unit regardless of whether you are using propane or catalytic heat source. IMO a necessary upgrade to any unit.

Larry

albert · 07-07-2005, 05:15 PM

Thankks so much. I think for now I will employ a seperate electric heater. I dont usually camp in freezing temps, so I would hope that would suffice. Will a portable heater run off of 12V?
I will either wait to replace the NT30 with a new one, or put a nice Microwave in it's place under the stove. Anyone ever tried that?