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Old 05-16-2008, 02:55 PM   #21
4 Rivet Member
Distantdrummer's Avatar
1975 31' Sovereign
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 494

why don't you get Tyler RV to remove the old unit?
But telll them you don't want it tossed down. If they were smart they would save it for parts too. But with copper and aluminum so high everybody is scrapping everything these days.
I absolutely think you are doing the right thing to try to salvage it.
There is no need to evac the freon unless your local trash pickup demands it before they will carry it away. But You are not gonna put it in the trash.

Is the shroud still usable? That is a $225 dollar item itself. Even if cracked it can be re-done. (There is a thread on this forum somewhaere about doing just that).

Also the inside console and register(s) is irreplaceable, so take care of that no matter what shape it is in. Even if you have to toss the unit save the plastic parts. They might sell on eBay, but they are small enough you could ship them.

I need a model 25-14 CWC L-57 (Bay Breeze) so your model is a little older than mine. If I was near I would still come get it, but have not been to Tyler area in many a moon.
I do think we are going to Rusk or Palestine to ride the Texas State Railroad this summer though. Probably in June, but I won't be in a truckthat trip.
____ d'drummer ____

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Old 05-16-2008, 06:14 PM   #22
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1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,018
Images: 4
Lotsa work for nothing?

Originally Posted by pansy
... Just dropped lower unit and pulled like 65 pop rivets on top. ...
Ya know, I've read about similar amounts of rivets to be removed to get a unit off of the roof. Sealing the holes left by all those rivets is part of what encouraged me to keep my Bay Breeze running instead of replacing it.

But, I had a chance to explore how these remarkable units were mounted in 1967 when my Overlander had a leak that HAD to be coming from the air conditioner.

While a plethora of bucked rivets are evident after the shroud is removed, it became obvious that those rivets do nothing more than hold the upper unit together. I.e. the rivets were bucked before the unit ever saw the Airstream.

My roof-top unit is affixed by four or five sheet metal screws running on the port & starboard sides, and three screws underneath the fan motor.

So, if I wanted to remove my roof-top unit, I would only need to remove 13 or so sheet metal screw AFTER the Freon & electrical lines were disconnected.

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Old 05-16-2008, 08:17 PM   #23
Charlie & Carolyn
1971 23' Safari
Chandler , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 16

I did ask Tyler RV to remove and be gentle with Armstrong to preserve the gold in them thar parts, but I dunno if I can trust 'em. I also was afraid to let them build support for the Dometic. Err 65 per/hr. and my time is free undoubtedly.
On the shrould I used Tomw's thread and others tips on reconstructing it. Spent untold hours with fiberglass sheeting and ABS cement to repair. Then used Krylon Fusion in hammered grey I think inside and out. I'm no body man, but I think she looks great for an amateurish attempt, at least from ground level. I was so determined to salvage her I did that first. Doh again. Found a burnt start cap. and adjustable potential relay from Grainger in upper control box,and an associate charged her with R22. All gone now, plus he bipassed what he called a thermal overload switch bolted to comp. Looks like there's a hole in outer shell of comp. also where he bipassed said piece where these (2 items were) but I'm no HVAC guy either. So I suspect maybe the compressor may be the culprit. Hence my decision to replace with Dometic 13.5 with drain kit. She may still be sitting here if you do come to the Palestine Railroad. Just about a 35 mile ride from our house. Can't promise though.
I love your blogs on your restore. Most complete I've seen and so helpful. Later I hope to photo spot my dissection and transplant if I can. Yah, I'm dreading sealing those rivets with Parbond or Vulkem and popping new rivets, then globbing more Vulkem over that. So far the only sealant on this part was Butyl tape with a trace of Vulkem in spots. Heat gun and voila.These rivets were just 1/8 " pop rivets though.Mine had four mounting bolts that came off easily from inside unit. Still haven't tried to budge her up and out though.
I found two spots on dividing line of shell at apex with what appears to be a hairline crack from metal fatigue on fore and aft near where shrould meets top of trailer.
Sheesh my fingies are cramping.
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