Visit our Popular Forums

Tn Traveler · 07-31-2017, 07:23 PM

That's a bummer, Davis. I just replaced the large capacitor, and it ran for 4 days before I shut it off. Low voltage will definitely heat up a breaker tripping it.

Best of luck in sorting this out. Please post what you find. Sorry, that I could not be of more help.

carl2591 · 07-31-2017, 09:28 PM

What size is run cap uF. 41 bucks sounds way high

also have the coils ever been cleaned both evap and cond

Davis · 08-01-2017, 06:15 AM

Click image for larger version

Name: Image1501586046.196129.jpg
Views: 93
Size: 385.6 KB
ID: 291007

This is a picture of the old parts and the new parts had same specs.

I will try blowing out the coils next. Thanks

Al and Missy · 08-01-2017, 07:23 AM

It sounds like the compressor is loading up due to high refrigerant pressure. Is there a fan on the outside coil? Are both the inside and outside coils clear? Are filters clean?

Another alternative is resistance going up with heat somewhere in the electrical line. Where are you monitoring voltage? At the unit? If so monitor it at an outlet on another circuit. If OK there, maybe a bad AC breaker. If low there, try to measure at the pedestal or home outlet. If good there, maybe bad main breaker. I had one go bad in my house and would work fine until current got high, but not over the limit.
Al

Davis · 08-01-2017, 08:52 AM

I am checking voltage in side the trailer by the sink.
When the compressor is on its cooling very good but at the same time something is making the voltage drop while the compressor is running and then it tripped the breaker inside the trailer whereas before I changed the capacitors it would run till the voltage dropped to 100 volts and the compressor would cut out and the fan would keep running.
While I am checking everything I have the interior cover off so no filters are installed right now and the exterior shroud is off.

I will try it again today and check voltage at the house receptacle and see if it's dropping like the one inside the trailer and I will also blow out the evap and cond coils.

**GCinSC2** · 08-01-2017, 09:44 AM

Davis,

Just for grins try turning off all circuit breakers except for AC and conduct your test.

Something I invested in to assist was a clamp on ammeter with capacitance test function. It's already earned it's spot in my carry tools.

Good luck

Gary

thinder · 08-01-2017, 10:37 AM

Ive had a string of AC similar problems on two different AS with penguins and ill share my story to see if it helps.

A couple of things to start off. There is no "start Cap" per say on the fan blower motor. It is run cap. On the penguin it is shared capacitor with the compressor(which does have a start cap). Also the Compressor is a separate motor that is sealed to the compressor head (pretty much unserviceable except for over load protection)
You probably know these things but just wanted to be on the same page.

First AS. I had one unit that was drawing two to three amps too much. The CB would pop after 10 min but if it was cool insdie it would work for several hours. I put an ammeter on the all terminals of the compressor and the fan. Found the Compressor wasn't showing any amps on run cap. Replaced that cap and problem solved. Except after several hours the amperage on the AC circuit would creep up to around 18 or 19. Too high for normal operation but still within limits of the Circuit. So I dug a little deeper. The CB box was hottish/warm. I removed the cover and began checking CB temps. THe Main was at 157 degrees (cb chould pop at 90f over ambient I think.) That got my attention so I pulled the breaker, put in a new one and re stripped the wire leading to it. Problem solved. What was happening was either corrosion on the main wire or CB bus bar or internal resistance of the CB was causing a voltage drop, increasing amperage and temperature which exaggerated the problem. High heat and amperage smoked the run cap on the compressor side, further increasing amperage popping the CB.

second AS. Air conditioning CB popped yesterday. Reset, fan hummed, I spun the fan and it was draggy, really draggy but it started. I selected fan on HIGH and amperage was 3.6A ( a tiny bit high) and turned it to cool. Compressor came on and amperage settled in right where it was supposed to be. Diagnosis- Fan motor crapped out. New fan motor on the way. Going to put in new run and start caps while I've got it open.

So my guess based on what you've said. Fan motor is dead. BUt check the CB box to see if its warmer than you would expect. I'm not sure about the clunk in the Compressor. might just be that you were sensitive to clunking sounds after you started looking for a problem.

**I just saw you got the fan motor running! great news! **

**GCinSC2** · 08-01-2017, 10:45 AM

Thinder,

Interesting observations.

Gary

thinder · 08-01-2017, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davis

I am checking voltage in side the trailer by the sink.
When the compressor is on its cooling very good but at the same time something is making the voltage drop while the compressor is running and then it tripped the breaker inside the trailer whereas before I changed the capacitors it would run till the voltage dropped to 100 volts and the compressor would cut out and the fan would keep running.
While I am checking everything I have the interior cover off so no filters are installed right now and the exterior shroud is off.

I will try it again today and check voltage at the house receptacle and see if it's dropping like the one inside the trailer and I will also blow out the evap and cond coils.

One thing to be aware of is if the shroud is off, the plenum for the condenser coils isn't sealed. so youre not pulling the heat out of the refrigerant, that can build up and pop the CB. sorry If you already addressed that but I thought I should mention it.

Davis · 08-01-2017, 01:17 PM

Ok after I blow out the coils I will reinstall the external shroud. Thanks

Davis · 08-01-2017, 08:34 PM

Thanks thinder for the tip on the shroud.

I blew out the cond and evap coils and replaced the external shroud.
Switched on the ac and after the compressor came on the voltage settled to 110volts in the trailer and 116 volts at the house outlet. I ran it for an hour with no problems [emoji3][emoji106]. So the capacitors were the problem originally and definitely learned the the external shroud needs to be in place while it's running.

Thank You all for your help!!!

thinder · 08-02-2017, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davis

Thanks thinder for the tip on the shroud.

I blew out the cond and evap coils and replaced the external shroud.
Switched on the ac and after the compressor came on the voltage settled to 110volts in the trailer and 116 volts at the house outlet. I ran it for an hour with no problems [emoji3][emoji106]. So the capacitors were the problem originally and definitely learned the the external shroud needs to be in place while it's running.

Thank You all for your help!!!

I knew you'd get it figured out! Just got to keep on working the problem!

carl2591 · 08-02-2017, 08:05 PM

did not know shroud was off. thaT WOULD Cause the head pressure to go way high.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davis

Thanks thinder for the tip on the shroud.

I blew out the cond and evap coils and replaced the external shroud.
Switched on the ac and after the compressor came on the voltage settled to 110volts in the trailer and 116 volts at the house outlet. I ran it for an hour with no problems [emoji3][emoji106]. So the capacitors were the problem originally and definitely learned the the external shroud needs to be in place while it's running.

Thank You all for your help!!!