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Old 05-28-2005, 03:38 PM   #21
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Since we've revived this old thread just in time for Summer A/C season, I thought I would toss in my experiences. We owned a small trailer, that never had roof A/C, and rather than cut a hole in the roof, and run electricity to the roof, we installed a 14,000 btu wall A/C near the floor. It was NOT a satisfactory location. Our feet would freeze, but the rest of our body parts would roast. Not a very comfortable situation. If you are going to put an A/C near the floor, duct the cold air up to where it will do the most good.
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Old 05-28-2005, 04:02 PM   #22
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Neat AC

These type of AC units are being used all through Kuwait and Iraq, or one's very similiar - and they work well. When I was over there I thought they'd be cool on a trailer, and here you go!

Rob
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Old 05-28-2005, 06:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robandzoe
These type of AC units are being used all through Kuwait and Iraq, or one's very similiar - and they work well. When I was over there I thought they'd be cool on a trailer, and here you go!

Rob
Any idea where I could find one of these?

Bill
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Old 05-28-2005, 08:46 PM   #24
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Some prices on split units here.

Kind of expensive!
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Old 05-29-2005, 02:59 PM   #25
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Thumbs up Slinger wheel vs. drip pan

I have seen much discussion regarding drip pans/tubes when installing a replacement a/c unit. I was under the impression that when it comes to Carrier units and their "Slinger wheel" design, drip pans are unnecessary? In fact, Inlandrv.com says drip pan is not needed in their Carrier listing. So, do Carriers need drip pans or not? Thanks
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:57 PM   #26
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The Carrier AC's do not need a drip pan.

However, you must add a drain hole to the Carrier, so the water does not build up to hit the slinger.

That hole is added to the bottom of the pan just below the slinger fan.

A fitting must be attached to the hole and then the drain hose that's already in the trailer shell, is attached to that fitting.

Andy
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Old 05-30-2005, 03:02 PM   #27
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Cool Portable Unit

Sorry I don't have the digital camera, but our computer room at work had problems overheating. It's about 20 x 12 with 9 ft ceilings. We were able to find a small portable unit - about 2.5 ft high by 18 inches sq. with a flexible exhaust hose to go through a side wall (think sort of a rigid slinky 8" in diameter). I think we paid about $500 for it.

This unit probably weighs under 50 lbs and is on casters. It is quite low noise. We had to vent it through the ceiling so we used stove pipe. It also has a fitting for a garden hose in the back to drain excess water. We don't need the hose as this is an assist unit for our regular A/C. The brand name is "Amcor".

I don't see why it couldn't be vented out of an airstream window or ceiling vent with a hose into the shower. As a matter of fact set it up IN the shower and use the shower vent for hot air and the drain for the water. This thing could probably cool a tent if you wanted to and with a ramp you could unload it to use in a garage, shed, etc. when not camping - or to have it out of the way during cooler months.

Tin Lizzie
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Old 05-30-2005, 04:43 PM   #28
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Today May-30,2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center
The Carrier AC's do not need a drip pan.

However, you must add a drain hole to the Carrier, so the water does not build up to hit the slinger.
That hole is added to the bottom of the pan just below the slinger fan.
A fitting must be attached to the hole and then the drain hose that's already in the trailer shell, is attached to that fitting.

Andy
on July-18,2003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center
All airconditioners installed on any Airstream trailer, require a drip pan, so that the water does not run down the sides of the coach, staining it.

However, if a person does not mind the staining, then a drip pan is not necessary.

The only drip pan available from Airstream is for the Penguin.

We will have a drip pan available for the Carriers in about a week.

Andy
Andy these two statements seem to contradict one another. Has something changed with the Carrier unit since july 2003?
Did you end up with Carrier custom drip pans in stock or not?
If so could you give your part number please.
Even if they are not still needed, do you think having one would be extra protection?
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Old 05-30-2005, 08:07 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by HitnMiss
Today May-30,2005


on July-18,2003


Andy these two statements seem to contradict one another. Has something changed with the Carrier unit since july 2003?
Did you end up with Carrier custom drip pans in stock or not?
If so could you give your part number please.
Even if they are not still needed, do you think having one would be extra protection?
I know what you are saying.
Nothing has changed with the Air V units in two years.
You cannot use a drip pan for it. A drip pan for the Carrier would be completely useless. The Carrier A/C does not have the same set-up for the excess condensate. The excess condensate runs outside of where ANY drip pan would be mounted. The only way a drip pan COULD be used on a Carrier would be to cradle the entire A/C unit in the drip pan.
If you call Carrier, they tell you that there is never enough condensate to run off of the trailer. I can tell you that there is enough. Not as much as on other brands of A/C units. It is enough to annoy me.
If someone is willing to sell you a drip pan for your Carrier Air V I will be able to sell you ocean-front proerty in Arizona!
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Old 05-31-2005, 07:19 AM   #30
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Lou, speaking of this...We're easing into installing our heat pump. I've been looking at your photos of your adaptation. Do you recall what size fittings you used?

Thanks,

Mary
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Old 05-31-2005, 08:10 AM   #31
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Could use a household unit

The smaller TrailManor trailers that do not have roof units use a common household AC set on a drip pan and mounted in one of the cabinets on the side of the trailer, right over the wheel well. The drip hose exits into the wheel well.

The only real downside seems to be in getting good circulation throughout the trailer since the AC is blasting straight across the aisle and hitting the bathroom wall. Some friends used a portable fan to direct cool air to whichever end of the trailer they were currently occupying. Some other friends had made an ugly sheet metal deflector that mounted on the AC front to direct air fore and aft.
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Old 05-31-2005, 08:53 AM   #32
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On my '51 FC I put a very small house style unit (Walmart type $100, 17L x 10D x 10H) in a cabinet and ran the drain tube out the wheel well. It's small, quiet, and vent it outside with a vent above the fridge side vent, and as well opened up a hole behind the AC unit to the fridge vent area. Seems to be enough that it cools the trailer well. As mentioned by others, the only issue so far is directing the cold air to where it's needed the most. Right now I've got a small 12v electric fan that moves the cold air around well enough but am working on a better way - I'm thinking I might come up with some form of ducting. The way it is set up now I have a cupboard door that hinges up and out of the way when the A/C is in use and the unit is invisible inside the cupboard when not. Did the same thing with the microwave, hidden away in a cupboard to keep a vintage look when the unit is parked but all the comforts of home when we want/need it. A trip to a sheet metal shop might get me a ducting system but I will let you know what they come up with. It would not take much to do. So far, in low 90's temp's, it was cool enough when on maximum (10) that you'd want a light sweater on if sitting there not moving around the unit. It does take a little while too get the whole unit that cool though, probably 1/2 hour for end to end when it was already very hot inside.

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Old 05-31-2005, 09:16 AM   #33
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I stripped down my future A/C unit for the Overlander last week. It looks like an easy task to fabricate and attach a plenum for the cold air output, and then short runs of insulated ducts to bring cold air to the areas that I want them.
The hot air from the condenser vents through a louver to the outside.
Cooling air for the condenser is drawn from under the coach, much like a refrigerator vent on a 70's coach. return air is drawn through a smaller louver under the bed. I have high hopes for this installation. The unit is very similar in power consumption to a roof air unit, but puts out 16000btu cooling power.I will let you all know how it ends up working, and if the experiment was successful. I am hoping to have this up and running by the end of June.
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Old 05-31-2005, 12:11 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireflyinva
Lou, speaking of this...We're easing into installing our heat pump. I've been looking at your photos of your adaptation. Do you recall what size fittings you used?

Thanks,

Mary
Sure I remember what size fittings I used.
Is that all you wanted to know?
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Old 06-01-2005, 09:54 AM   #35
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Of course it won't work, but it does. Check out the ductwork on page 4, too.
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Old 06-11-2005, 07:25 AM   #36
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No hole in the roof !?

This item is interesting for those of you who don't want to have a permanent installation and the flexibility to using an air conditioner in various locations ...

http://www.atrendyhome.com/po.html

Sunpentown Portable Air Conditioner w/ remote WA-1230E

At the bottom of that page are other miscellaneous selections for varied and sundry models and options.
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Old 06-11-2005, 08:55 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftwood
This item is interesting for those of you who don't want to have a permanent installation and the flexibility to using an air conditioner in various locations ...

http://www.atrendyhome.com/po.html

Sunpentown Portable Air Conditioner w/ remote WA-1230E

At the bottom of that page are other miscellaneous selections for varied and sundry models and options.
We actually purchased a similar unit this week and are working on getting it installed this weekend. We looked at the Sunpentown models, but decided against it because of the exhaust air duct location...they exit out the back whereas the one we got Wintair (from Home Depot) vents out of the top, so the actual footprint of space required is smaller, which is HUGE in our small trailer. Also, we felt we could get away with fewer BTU's (8000) in our 19-footer and it was only $299.

It seems like a great option for those of us who only need AC occaisionally...like at International. What we're doing to install it is cutting a piece of plexi-glass to replace a window screen so we can vent the duct outside. I'll post pictures later this weekend...and give a full-report after it's test drive later this month.

I don't expect to 'need a sweater' with this option, but DO hope to be able to keep the trailer at a more comfortable temperature and reduce the humidity...especially at night while sleeping.

Shari
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Old 06-11-2005, 10:56 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftwood
This item is interesting for those of you who don't want to have a permanent installation and the flexibility to using an air conditioner in various locations ...

http://www.atrendyhome.com/po.html

Sunpentown Portable Air Conditioner w/ remote WA-1230E

At the bottom of that page are other miscellaneous selections for varied and sundry models and options.
That looks like it is a good substitute. Looking forward to hearing how well one works???
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Old 06-12-2005, 12:52 PM   #39
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I'll post pictures later this weekend...and give a full-report after it's test drive later this month.

Shari
Here's the pix I promised...looks like it's going to work out fine, it does hang into the aisle about 5", but there is still plenty of room to get around it. Again, we only need the A/C occaisionally as most of our trips are in the mountains where the temps rarely get high enough to warrant a full-time permanent A/C.

The screen is replaced with a 1/4" piece of plexi-glass with the vent routed into it. When the A/C is not in use, the screen can be easily replaced.

Shari
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Old 06-12-2005, 01:09 PM   #40
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Shari.

Replace the "plexiglass" with Lexan.

The plexiglass will fail, sooner that you think.

Andy
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