Newbie with A/C questions

[Plano-Mark]

I purchased a '76 Overlander in March and took it out for the first time in hot weather last weekend. I was not sure the A/C would work and sure enough, the compressor comes on for only brief periods (less than 15 seconds) at a time with the temperature in the 90's. The shroud on the unit suggests it is a Coleman, but I have some doubts and am considering a replacement unit instead of seeking to repair this one. What is recommended for a BTU rating on a 27' trailer with the hot Texas summertime temps? What might I expect for a reasonable replacement cost if I take it to a service center? Is it a job that someone like myself, with years of tinkering and home construction experience, might be capable of doing myself without boogering it up?

I appreciate any ideas, suggestions and advice. I'm just getting started and have lots to ramp-up on, with regard to a successful Airstream experience and pleasure, so I'm all eyes and ears and little mouth around the experts. Thanks.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Plano-Mark

I purchased a '76 Overlander in March and took it out for the first time in hot weather last weekend. I was not sure the A/C would work and sure enough, the compressor comes on for only brief periods (less than 15 seconds) at a time with the temperature in the 90's. The shroud on the unit suggests it is a Coleman, but I have some doubts and am considering a replacement unit instead of seeking to repair this one. What is recommended for a BTU rating on a 27' trailer with the hot Texas summertime temps? What might I expect for a reasonable replacement cost if I take it to a service center? Is it a job that someone like myself, with years of tinkering and home construction experience, might be capable of doing myself without boogering it up?

I appreciate any ideas, suggestions and advice. I'm just getting started and have lots to ramp-up on, with regard to a successful Airstream experience and pleasure, so I'm all eyes and ears and little mouth around the experts. Thanks.

Were you using an extension cord?

Andy

[Plano-Mark]

No, I was using the heavy, black, cord with the large 3-pronged plug with 2 diagonal teeth and a ground pin that is hard-wired into the aft.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Plano-Mark

No, I was using the heavy, black, cord with the large 3-pronged plug with 2 diagonal teeth and a ground pin that is hard-wired into the aft.

You described exactly what an improper extension cord would do.

Check the AC voltage in the trailer, as the AC is trying to start, or running.

You could also have a low voltage situation.

I am trying to come up with another reason other than telling you that you have a bad AC.

Andy

[Plano-Mark]

Well, I will say, when I purchased the unit in March, the seller plugged into a 30 amp circuit with a 12 guage extension cord and the A/C operated for about 5 minutes. The temperature that day was in the upper 70s and the compressor stayed on for almost the entire time, and it blew cool/cold air. I thought that might be enough evidence to suggest the A/C was functional. I did not attempt to operate the A/C until we were at a campground with 30 amp service, last weekend. I did not use my best judgement when hooking up and turning on the unit because I wasn't thinking logically, that a compressor not coming on could heat it up and burn it out. Well, as I was finishing other connections outside, the compressor did heat up and started blowing a little smoke. I immediately shut it down and have not even gone so far as to turn the fan on.

To get through the weekend with high heat and humidity, I ran to Lowe's and managed to get their last (floor model) portable room A/C (10k BTU, 9.7 amp). That unit actually did a decent job, despite the engineering challenges I faced in routing 10' of exhaust vent to the outside because the A/C was placed in the galley area, in the widest pathway.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Plano-Mark

Well, I will say, when I purchased the unit in March, the seller plugged into a 30 amp circuit with a 12 guage extension cord and the A/C operated for about 5 minutes. The temperature that day was in the upper 70s and the compressor stayed on for almost the entire time, and it blew cool/cold air. I thought that might be enough evidence to suggest the A/C was functional. I did not attempt to operate the A/C until we were at a campground with 30 amp service, last weekend. I did not use my best judgement when hooking up and turning on the unit because I wasn't thinking logically, that a compressor not coming on could heat it up and burn it out. Well, as I was finishing other connections outside, the compressor did heat up and started blowing a little smoke. I immediately shut it down and have not even gone so far as to turn the fan on.

To get through the weekend with high heat and humidity, I ran to Lowe's and managed to get their last (floor model) portable room A/C (10k BTU, 9.7 amp). That unit actually did a decent job, despite the engineering challenges I faced in routing 10' of exhaust vent to the outside because the A/C was placed in the galley area, in the widest pathway.

The smoke still may not be the bottom line answer.

Have someone check the start and run capacitors.

One or the other could also be the problem.

But, if they check out, then the band stopped playing.

You will indeed need a new AC.

One of the best, that does not need a drain pan, is the Carrier, high profile, since it has a slinger, and a solid 15,000 btu's of cooling.

Andy

[Plano-Mark]

Thank you, Andy. Cheers!

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

One of the best, that does not need a drain pan, is the Carrier, high profile, since it has a slinger, and a solid 15,000 btu's of cooling.

Andy

I gotta agree with Andy on this one. I installed a 15,000 Btu Heat Pump model this spring and am very pleased. See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ead-40795.html.

OK, I painted the cover myself.

In Plano, you are going to want all the cool you can get.